Atv implements - realistic expectations

[mrjigger]

I am newbie when it comes to food plots. Starting to research with plans to build some food plots next year. The land I own has an open area of roughly 1 acre in size, maybe a little larger than that. Currently this area is overrun with weeds and wild ferns and I want to make into a food plot.

I don't have a lot of equipment at my disposal. I have a Polaris sportsman 500 and a rear tine tiller.

Been looking at purchasing an atv disc, harrow or maybe a groundhog max.

Realistically what should I expect out of an atv disc or the groundhog? Have read mixed reviews on both, most stating that atv discs are not heavy enough to break the ground very well.

Is there a atv disc you or other type of implement you would recommend?

Do I need implements? Can a guy just spray weeds a couple times, use a harrow or something to rough up the ground and plant the seeds?

I did build a small test plot this past year and the seeds came up fairly well with minimal fertilizer, etc.

Thanks!

[LABS4ME]

ATV discs work OK if the ground is friable and has moisture in it. I'm not really a big fan of them. Save your money and use it on good seed and a new stand!

Your rear tine tiller will work better!

Here's what I would do. Do a spray down of the weeds in the spring when greening begins. Wait two-three weeks and hit it again. Use a non-selective glysophate (Round-up). Till up the soil and plant a cover crop such as oats, or a pea/oat blend. Use a broadcast seeder (the kind you wear around your neck) and drag with an ATV harrow. The deer will gladly use these greens in the spring early summer... Then in July, I'd till them all into the soil again to help build up the organic matter (green manure). Wait a couple weeks after tilling, spray any weeds that germinate and prep the ground for a fall food plot. This may be Brassicas (annual), winter wheat or rye (annual - just be sure to till up in the spring before seeds form), or a clover/chicory blend (perennial).

By this time you will have good weed control and the ability to plant your plots how ever you wish. The soil will have better structure with the green manuring and the additional work done to it.

You will want a soil test done especially if yo plan on any clover mix. You will most likely have to lime the soil to sweeten it. You will need to do this at least a half a year in advance of planting. Clover will not need nitrogen fertilizer but does like a bit of phosphorus and potassium.

Good Luck! It is something that gets somewhat addicive when you begin!

Ken

[mrjigger]

Thanks for the detailed response!

Will give it a try in the spring. I was hoping to only have to till once, but I like the idea

Of organic matter.

[LABS4ME]

One other thing to consider... if you have an acre plus, maybe do a couple types of feed in the same plot. I have a couple plots in that acre range, 1/3-1/2 is in something perennial like clover or high sugar grass, the other 1/2 is in annual rotation. This makes it more palatable throughout the year for deer getting them to key oin on the area more than just a few months when that food is desirable. Plus it gives them nutrition through a greater portion of the year. I really put a lot of thought into getting them food for winter and immediately in spring. This helps the lactating does and bucks to jump start their racks.

After 3-4 years I usually plow down the clover and reverse the roatation... this helps the soil, reduces the chance of a disease building up in the soil and keeps healthy young plants for your deer.

Good Luck!

Ken

[Powerstroke]

I've used the Groundhog Max for 2 or 3 years now. I think it works awesome as a disk for its size. It cuts and throws plenty of dirt and requires much less physical effort that running a tiller.

I would say that the limitations would be trying to bust fresh sod. We have used the Groundhog disk under 2 different Honda's. Both are in the 500 size. They are both a decent size for breaking ground.

1 acre is a lot of land, certainly more than I would want to run a tiller on. If you have ferns than your soil is fairly moist there. I would follow all of the advise Labs gave you except where he said till, I would use the disk. Your body will thank you. We do the double treatment of glyphosate also and that helps cut through the green and lets the disk start breaking dirt and roots. The other thing we've used with great results is a controlled burn of an area after the gly treatment if you have alot of grass or weed thatch. Makes a great fertilizer too.

[Dotch]

I got one of the single gang flip over discs from FF about 15 years ago. It works but it definitely needs more weight on it to really bite into the soil as I'd like. On the finer textured soils here, it takes several times over the same spot to get the desired results. Of course, driving the 4 wheeler over the area several times is still much more fun than walking behind the tiller once given the choice.

[mrjigger]

Thanks All! This is great info. Glad some folks with discs chimed in, as that is the direction I was thinking/hoping of going.

I am not afraid of work, but I wasn't looking forward to tilling 1 acre with my 18" rear tine tiller.

How well does the soil need to be prepped before planting? Does it just need

to be "roughed" up really good or should it look more like a garden before seeding?

I tilled up that small test plot this fall and I would say the soil was somewhere between "rouged" up and garden. The plot came in fairly well, but could have been a little better I think. I didn't do a soil test before though. It was a real quick, last minute idea.

thanks again.

[Dotch]

As far as how well to work the soil a good, basic rule of thumb is that the smaller the seed the more intensively the seedbed needs to be prepared without specialized seeding equipment (no-till). We're talking about things like alfalfa, clover, rape, turnips, etc. The main thing is to get the seed poked into the ground slightly without burying it too deep. This is where a cultipacker to run over the area after seeding becomes a valuable tool to have. They aren't cheap (~$800 - $900 for a 4') although you may be able to rent one or go together with some like-minded people and share one. We use cultipackers and combination seeder/packers such as a Brillion seeder to establish forages for livestock. Things like small grains (wheat, rye, oats, etc.) are a little more forgiving but those can be seeded with a spreader, spinner or otherwise, worked in with the disc and then rolled with the cultipacker for good results.

Soil testing ahead of working ground and seeding is always a good idea to determine what your fertility levels and pH are. That way it can be worked in ahead of time and in the case of lime, allow it time to neutralize the soil acidity so that what you seed will benefit from it. A good place to start is the U. Not too long ago they added wildlife food plots to their Fertilizer Guidelines for Agronomic Crops in MN, bulletin # BU-06240-S.

http://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/

[puddleduck]

Sod Buster by Antler King. I rented one of these years ago for about 3 years and then purchased a used one. Need at least a 500 ATV to pull it. It weighs something 560 pounds. Serrated discs. Really, really works well. Two gangs that have adjustable angle depending on the cut you want. It is on wheels which raise and you can adjust the depth that you want to cut into the soil. I love it. Google it.

[LightningBG]

If it were me, and if there was decent access, I'd try to find a local farmer to hire to bust it up the first time through.

Round up the whole thing, then get the farmer in there to chisel it or whatever. Just to get the hardpacked ground a little looser. Then do as you please but with a lot less time and effort.

[LABS4ME]

Having access to disks, plows and a tiller, I can say the tiller makes the best seed bed.... Disks work godd on already 'worked' soil, but on hard packed soil, not as well. I don't thnk taking half a day to till an acre for a food plot is that big a sacrifice... I myself woud rather do that than dump $500 in a decent disk. That will sit around most of the time... If you had multiple plots and were turning hem twice a season, I get buying implements... We have done so. I rarelyu se our disc (sorry 3point) any longer... I till the plots... I know I'll get a great one pass seed bed.

For one, 1acre plot, give me the tiller and a drag for the Atv. even if I'm doing a spring and fall plot, 2 half days of work are acceptable to me. If you go the disc route... Watch c-list. Lots of Guys buy them, use them once or twice and sell them for less than new.

Good Luck

Ken

[highlife4me]

Another option would be to look for an old garden tractor with a few attachments. A few years ago I picked up an old Sears Suburban with a three point hitch, plow, disc, 36" tiller and a front balde. I have just about $500 invested and it works great for small food plots.

[MUSKY18]

You can also look into renting the implements too. I know that an archery store in St Cloud rents out a PlotMaster system for like 50 bucks a day. That's the route I am going to take this coming season with my plots. It has the dual gang discs to tear up the ground good enough, the seeder is on it and when you are planting the seed, the drag part will cover your seeds as you go. Kind of a one stop shop. I know I will be able to use it to put all the small plots in that I am going to plant, and should easily get it done in a days time.