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About mrjigger

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    Sr IceLeaders.com Family

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  • Location:
    becker, mn 55308
  1. I have a 1994 arctic cat prowler 440 EFI. There is an air vent hose that is connected to the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator is connected to the delivery pipe. There is gas dripping from the air vent hose. I thought this was a gas overflow tube or something, but the parts diagram says it's an air vent hose. Just wondering if the dripping gas is dangerous. Worried that the gas could come in contact with a hot muffler and explode. For all I know it's been dripping like this for a long time. First I noticed it. Also, why is gas dripping from the air vent hose. Is the regulator going bad? The sled runs fine Thanks
  2. I got a few red dogwood seedlings from my local SWCD. Do I need to put a fence around these to keep deer off them for a few years? Thanks
  3. Thanks everyone. Has anyone had an experience where building a big enclosed stand changed/ruined the quality or number of deer seen in that spot? I also worry about this happening. personally I like to keep my spots as natural as possible. I think I do very minimal trimming compared to most people. I worry that building a big stand will screw my spot up. Especially being in the big woods. My buddy built a big box stand on our old hunting grounds and it seemed to change how good the spot was.
  4. This is why I love this HSOforum! Thanks everyone. Right now we have 15ft ladder stands at all our spots. Line of sight is fine, but if we went much higher than that it could become a problem. Never thought about the getting older viewpoint either as I am what some would call a young buck yet. Since these stands are going to be built to last, that is definitely something to consider. Appreciate all the tips. My guess is we will build them somewhere in between. Maybe 10 to 12 ft.
  5. Me and my buddy are starting to plan for building a few nicer enclosed deer stands next year. Having a debate about how tall they need to be. He says if they are enclosed you can be lower, like 8ft to the bottom of the base, I say we should go 13-14ft to the bottom of the base, maybe even a little higher. a little background....the land we own is basically in the big woods. We only own 10acres, but it abuts literally thousands of acres of thick cedar bog. So the spots we hunt are on shooting lanes or just small openings in the forest that we have found. So when we get an opportunity to harvest a deer, it is typically right on top of us. Many of the shots are within bow range. Some a little further. This is why I think we need to be higher. Might get away with lower in some instance, but best to be a little higher. I agree with my bud if we were on the edge of a field and taking long shots. But that isn't the case. any thoughts/opinions would be appreciated. thanks!
  6. Thanks All! This is great info. Glad some folks with discs chimed in, as that is the direction I was thinking/hoping of going. I am not afraid of work, but I wasn't looking forward to tilling 1 acre with my 18" rear tine tiller. How well does the soil need to be prepped before planting? Does it just need to be "roughed" up really good or should it look more like a garden before seeding? I tilled up that small test plot this fall and I would say the soil was somewhere between "rouged" up and garden. The plot came in fairly well, but could have been a little better I think. I didn't do a soil test before though. It was a real quick, last minute idea. thanks again.
  7. Thanks for the detailed response! Will give it a try in the spring. I was hoping to only have to till once, but I like the idea Of organic matter.
  8. I am newbie when it comes to food plots. Starting to research with plans to build some food plots next year. The land I own has an open area of roughly 1 acre in size, maybe a little larger than that. Currently this area is overrun with weeds and wild ferns and I want to make into a food plot. I don't have a lot of equipment at my disposal. I have a Polaris sportsman 500 and a rear tine tiller. Been looking at purchasing an atv disc, harrow or maybe a groundhog max. Realistically what should I expect out of an atv disc or the groundhog? Have read mixed reviews on both, most stating that atv discs are not heavy enough to break the ground very well. Is there a atv disc you or other type of implement you would recommend? Do I need implements? Can a guy just spray weeds a couple times, use a harrow or something to rough up the ground and plant the seeds? I did build a small test plot this past year and the seeds came up fairly well with minimal fertilizer, etc. Thanks!
  9. I went to indiana game and there were a few guys out front trying to sell tickets. Not sure on prices. I have heard if your patient and a little lucky you can get a deal if your willing to wait it out until right before tip off. I usually just get my tickets on stub hub or ticket king. Might pay a little more, but I only go to one game a year and it is more of a convenience thing for me. Some tickets have electronic delivery, meaning they send you an email link and you can print the tickets out right at home. Good luck
  10. I totally agree with BoxMN. I am in the same situation. I hunt in two separate hunters choice zones which are 200+ miles apart. Seems rediculous that I can't take 2 deer, 1 from each zone using my bow tag and firearm tag. I bow hunt quite a bit, but many times I end up just watching the deer walk by because I still want to be able to rifle hunt. The deer I am hunting in one zone 200+ miles away, are not going to travel to the other zone i am hunting. I don't agree with having a bow hunting "bonus tag" though for 1 deer zones. If you shoot a deer with your bow in a hunters choice zone, you shouldn't be able to go back during firearm and shoot another in the same zone. That zone may as well be managed then.
  11. I changed the hyfax on both my sleds this weekend. It is the first time I have ever changed hyfax before. I took old ones out and cut new ones to same length. Now when I spin the track with rear jacked up there is a clicking sound from the track clips hitting the hyfax in the back of the sled. is this normal? I assume the hyfax will wear down eventually and the clicking will stop? I read online that some people cut the hyfax at a 45deg angle, but my old hyfax weren't cut that way, so I didn't do it.
  12. I have a hot water in floor heating system in my basement. The water gets heated with an electric boiler. The whole system is in my basement right below the wall in my garage that joins the house. I want to add or extend a zone into my garage to provide heating for my dog and also to keep boots, etc on. I am not concerned about having temperature control. Can a Just "tee" off a zone supply, make my loops in the garage and then back again to another "tee" on the return line?
  13. is there any product out there that will kill grass/weeds around trees and/or shrubs that won't kill the tree? I have a bunch of trees I would like to put mulch around, but would like to kill the grass/weeds around the tree prior to adding the mulch.
  14. thanks guys. I have used a drift sock in the past to control speed, but prefer to adjust the rpm. Less of a hassel. Morepower, do you know if this rocker switch setup you are talking about is compatible with all Mercury Models? I think my mercury is a 2005 75 HP, 4Stroke, remote. How would I find out if this new setup is compatible with my engine. thanks again.
  15. I am wondering if there is an aftermarket device to control the rpm's on larger outboards. I know there are a few you can attach to kicker outboards up to 20hp, but can't seem to find anything for larger HP engines. I know yamaha's can be adjusted in 50rpm increments. I am wondering if there is any aftermarket device similar to what the new yamaha's have. I have searched the Internet but come up empty so far. You would think something like that would be available. I want to control my trolling speed. Thanks
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