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Scatter Rap?


Fish Head

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Has anyone had any success trolling lead core with Scatter raps? Maybe I need to keep trying them, but I almost never catch anything with them. I do much better with flicker shads and shad raps. I have no confidence in them at all right now.

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I have found them to be a good bait when fancasting shallow flats along weedlines but have not trolled with them at all. I know there were some folks that have pulled them on Superior with some luck with core but much like you guys, I will stick to the baits that consistently put fish in the boat when trolling like the flicker shad and shad raps.

Tunrevir~

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I tried them last week and had a hard time tells ng if I was banging bottom or not. I tried differentenghts and found that they really scatter when running suspended. I'll keep trying them but if they don'twork I'll change back to the go to's pretty quick. I was usi g the deep crank style and thought I had them banging around 13'. With about 80' out 10/2 power pro slick.

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I have had really good success on Lake Superior when fishing just top water with PowerPro and using 832 Suffix leadcore. When using leadcore I like to tie on a 30' lead using Seaguar fluorocarbon along with a 6' leader of the same fluorocarbon. I will have 2 crosslock snap swivels to make sure I get no line twist. One at the end of the 30' lead and at the end of my 6' leader. I feel if there is too short of a lead the leadcore will kill any of the movement of the scatter rap. Most other plug have a tight movement compared to the scatter rap. Another option would be Torpedoes which would get your scatter rap down to any depth and you could use any line for trolling. They come with depth charts that will tell just how much line out to get to your depth you want.

full-4091-49062-fixedslidersetupmain.jpg

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Jim,

I'm curious and not being critical. Why do you use a 6 foot fluorocarbon leader in addition to the 30 foot fluorocarbon lead? Also, wouldn't just a ball bearing swivel in front of your leader with a duolock snap at the lure eliminate line twist as well?

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I was always taught that in order for a lure to function with the intended action, it should always be tied lure eyelet directly to line with no snap swivel. The swivel weight - as well as the lack of a direct tied connection to the lure eyelet - alter how it performs in the water. So I think I get why he wouldn't attach a swivel right at the lure. 6' of line gives a good length of line for the lure to display the proper action.

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Jim,

I'm curious and not being critical. Why do you use a 6 foot fluorocarbon leader in addition to the 30 foot fluorocarbon lead? Also, wouldn't just a ball bearing swivel in front of your leader with a duolock snap at the lure eliminate line twist as well?

My 30' lead is tied directly to my LC. I have seen what happens to LC when it gets twisted up- time to throw away because it was not fit to use anymore. I always put my leaders away at the end of the day so there is no chance of nicking the leader while moving rods around in the boat and truck.

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