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Nd filters


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That is correct: do you REALLY have a use for them, for what, and how often. Lugged a bunch of them around for years but seldom used one of them. While I am certainly no "up" on today's equipment and techniques is seems to me there would not be that much need for an ND.

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Ok, now we have a good starting point. ND filters are really a must especially for landscape work! Want a correctly exposed photo of a sunset that has the proper exposure for the foreground and the sky? Your camera is only capable of using about 8 to 10 stops of dynamic range. A sunset can be double that! Want to take pictures of a waterfall with silky smooth water? You will need a ND to get a slow enough shutter speed to get that.

Can you do this effect with post processing? Sure but not with the same results as getting it correct in the camera at the time of capture.

Filters - You will basically use two types ND and GND or Neutral Density and Graduated Neutral Density. The ND is one constant color, GND is usually 1/2 clear and the other half is shaded darker. That sunset photo, perfect use of a GND. The waterfall shot, perfect use for a ND.

Brands - Many out there from cheap to expensive. All I can say about that is you will get what you pay for, cheaper filters can have color casts, distortion, etc. More expensive will give you more consistent results. You decide what you are comfortable with. Lee, Cokin, Singh Ray, Tiffen, B+W, Hoya are some of the most popular brands. Singh Ray are right at the top in quality, but so is the price. I use B+W for a couple of mine, they work very well for me at their price point.

Stops - You can get 1,2,3 10 and so on for stops, most any number you need. The number means you will get that amount of stops correction for your photo. A three stop difference in exposure between foreground and sky you would want to use a +3 filter. What if you don't have the number you want? You can stack them. Stack a 2 and a 3 to get you to 5 for instance. The drawback is if you are shooting wide angle you will eventually start to vignette due to the stacking of the filters. There are ALWAYS tradeoffs!

If you have money to burn you can buy a Vari ND which allows you to go from 3 to 8 stops, there are different models that have different stops. Expect to pay in the $400 range!!!

Mount - Screw on, holders, screw on with rotating lens are a couple of options. My thought here is if you are using GND for landscapes having a filter that is split in half may not work the best for your compositions with a screw on fixed filter.

How do you go about using it? The sunset shot is a good example. Put your camera in manual and spot metering. Meter your foreground and take note of the settings. Now point at the sky and meter the sky. How many stops of exposure do you have between the two, that is the number on the filter you will use. Lets say we had a three stop difference. Put on your +3 GND and set your camera for the foreground settings. Take the photo and you will now have a correctly exposed foreground and sky!

Example.

This was shot during the mid-day in Portland, OR using a ND. The only way to get slow enough shutter speeds is to use a ND.

2dbl2109-XL.jpg

Shot with a GND in Hawaii. Proper foreground and proper sky exposure is the best use of the GND.

2DBL3988-XL.jpg

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I carry the Following filters with me at times, basically because I do a lot of landscape type of shots.

Gradient Neutral Density .3

GND .6

GND .9

GND 1.2

1 77mm Variable ND with up to 8 stops of power

and my Favorite filter of all times, the Lee Big Stopper 3 full F Stops of light stoppage. YOu can almost take a picture of the sun at noon with it.

I also have 2 Cir Polorizers with some step Down rings so I don't have then for each lense.

The way a GND filter usually works, is it is made out of square resin or Glass and you buy a filter holder for it, then you can move the gradient up and down in the screen.

THis is my example of using a Polarizer, VND, and GND all at the same time

[

full-14389-47096-waterfall.jpg

Here is an image with a 1.2x GND taken at sunset (that is 1 1/3 stops)

full-14389-47097-buck_hill_sunset.jpg

Here is another Polarizer with a .9 GND filter and 5 staked images.

full-14389-47098-windcanyon.jpg

This one was taken with a Polorizer and a .6 GND filter to help tone down the sky and give me more detail in the grass

full-14389-47099-badlands.jpg

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Each manufacturer has their own way of stating the power of the gradient. A .6 is two stops and probably the best all around filter. I like the screw in type like a polarizer filter, with a soft gradient. I am not a fan of the square style, too much screwing around to get it mounted on and in place when I am in a hurry to shoot and the light is changing. Just my preference only!

Yes you can do exposure blending in post production, I just don't think you get the results like you do in camera. Plus you actually get to see what your shot will look like through the camera, not when you get home in front of your computer. Again just my preference only! No way to get silky smooth moving water easily in post production either.

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yes I understand the water needs to have the ND. I have an ND 4 that I have used on water and I really like the affect. I think that is the .6 and 2 stops you mentioned. I was wondering more about the GND for landscape shots. So I am thinking a GND 4 should be added to the bag? Thx for the tips !

p.s. the older my eyes get it is tough to see what is on the little screen and I really enjoy doing a little editing on the lap top where I can see it. smile Aging....... grrrrrrr ! lol

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popped over to the pond next door for fun to try and get the fountain. used the ND4 on my 35 lens. f22, 2.5 seconds ISO 100. Darkened it 20% in elements. Need some more clouds to make it a bit darker out. Fun playing around with this stuff.

full-27930-47111-test2.jpg

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