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Strikemaster Laser Mag Express with Tecumseh engine question


waxworm09

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I just bought a used Laser Mag Express and was curious what everyone thinks about this auger. Is it a good quality motor? It is a 5 year old auger, looks to be in good shape and runs good. One question I have is about the compression valve. My older strikemaster 2000 didn't have that button so I wasn't used to using it. When I started the auger before I bought it, I didn't push the compression button and the auger started on the second pull. I took it out fishing today, I pushed the button before I pulled the cord and it took 10-12 pulls to start the auger. I got home and started it again, I didn't push the button and it started on the third pull. Is there something I'm missing with this compression button? Any input or advice on this auger would be great, thanks!

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You have to press the button everytime before you pull the starter rope for this feature to work.When the rope is pulled the compression button pops out.

I had an auger just like yours until 2 springs ago[the cylinder walls got scored and it was junk,between 2 small engine repair places they seen 11 that year with the same problem].

When I purchased mine I was told to shut it off by pressing the compression button[they were having problems breaking recoils when it shut off because of too much compression].

As to the problem you had starting it today I do not have an answer.

workin'

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You may be right, maybe the key is to not use the compression button at all. I fired it up this morning, pushed the button before every pull and it took 6 pulls to start. An hour ago I fired it up again, didn't push the button, and after 3 pulls it started up. Seems to start much easier without the button. Hopefully it won't cause any other issues with the auger if I don't use the compression button.

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I see those in the shop all the time and the only real problem I see is with bad fuel. I don't see much differance in how hard it is to pull if you have the button pressed in or not so I would say pretend its not there. As far as keeping them running good long term just run non-oxy fuel with a good 2 stroke at 25:1 (even if it says 40) and you should be good for years.

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I have this auger. I use the button to shut it off and that's it. I should just solder the switch wires together.

So far the only problems I've had have been my fault. I broke the recoil cord after noticing it was frayed...for an entire season blush I did have an issue with the diaphram but that was my fault for running it out of fuel to summerize it. I replaced that and gave the carb a good cleaning and it runs better than out of the box. Cuts like butter now!

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D Rock told me to use the button. Their reason was that it cleans out the cylinder and prevents flooding on the next start.

The first pull is supposed to prime it, some folks do real short lighter pulls to get gas into the cylinder without popping the valve. I've always had better luck using mine with the valve and it starts on the second pull, stays running on the third.

I put in a hotter plug (it's optional within the specs). I also use the Opti-2 oil mix packets. There are bunches of debates about this and 100:1 amsoil. I like it. It runs a lot leaner, with less fumes, no oil or drainage in the exhaust and it cuts great.

Just my $.02

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Disappointed shortly after purchase...

I had mine for less than a couple weeks and I had to box it up and send it back!

Wouldn't start, and if by some freak thing that it would, it wouldn't stay running.

After getting it back from StrikeMaster it did start but still didn't run very smooth at idle, nor would it power through the ice.

Decided to just tough it out to see if it would work itself out...

Poor choice!

This year I've put a full carburetor kit in it and it still runs like garbage!

Today while trying to use it I broke the pull rope mad

Now I'm to the point of getting it fixed and "Unloading it"!

I want to fish not work on equipment all the time...

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