Solo adjustment???

[picksbigwagon]

My solo is starting year three and when it is running on idle, the auger still spins slowly, which from researching here means it needs to the lower speed reduced on the carb adjustment. Problem is i see no screws for adjusting the carb. Anyone here help, maybe with pictures???

[holmsvc]

3rd or 4th year on mine same issue started for me as well.

[Surface Tension]

Never worked on a Solo but all carbed engines have a idle speed stop screw. Take the air filter cover off. You should be able to see a idle speed stop screw.

If this high idle is something new then something has changed.

1st, if you haven't already use fresh gas with same octane rating and same oil/gas ratio.

A partially dirty carb causing a lean condition.

[picksbigwagon]

Thanks Frank, I think I am going to run it up to strikemaster in Minnetonka next week and see what they can do for it. It was spinning last year too, which makes me believe it needs to be adjusted. I will call them first but it shouldn't be to big of a job to adjust the carb........

[holmsvc]

I am running fresh gas. I only run premium gas with Amsoil Saber 90 to 1 in my auger and I have also recently been adding a little be of sea foam to each tank.

[Surface Tension]

Picks, your should have a non tamper proof carb so the only adjustment would be idle speed set screw. You won't goof anything up if your use that. In your case to drop idle speed down turn the screw out counterclockwise.

[TravP]

If adjusting the idle speed screw doesn't work, you may have a broken clutch spring.

[holmsvc]

If adjusting the idle speed screw doesn't work, you may have a broken clutch spring.

I hope not I just had a new clutch put in in March.

[picksbigwagon]

Idle screw adjustment fixed it, run greats, auger only spins when I decide it will. thanks Frank for the help

[picksbigwagon]

UPDATE!!!!

Okay, I turned the high idle screw left a little bit (less than half a turn) and it took care of the spinning auger, BUT, when it is cold out, it will bog down and stop running in between holes, and new this year, if it is really cold out (-5 or more below) it just won't start. Did my turning of the that screw have any affect on this? it is 3 years old, could be just as simple as a new spark plug? I run it at 40:1 as per manufacturers suggestions, I store it wet, run seafoam in it and have been using trufuel this year

P.S. it doesn't seem to be getting full RPM's like it used to either.

[kfk]

This is from a Solo manual:

CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT - Both the idle mixture adjusting screw and the main jet adjusting screw are for adjusting fuel/air mixture. Turning either screw clockwise (closing jet) will reduce the amount of fuel being mixed with the air causing the mixture to become leaner. Turning either screw counterclockwise (opening jet) will increase the amount of fuel being mixed with the air, and the mixture becomes richer. Basically, the idle mixture screw affects the mixture at idle RPM, and the main jet adjusting screw affects the mixture at cruising. speeds and above. At speeds between idle and cruise, both jets may be partly active, varying with the throttle setting.

IF THE ENGINE does not smoke, idles smoothly and quietly accelerates without stalling, and cruises with steady power, the carburetor needs no further adjustment.

ASSUMING THAT there are no other problems such as an air leak under the carburetor or adapter1 or ignition trouble), yet the engine still runs rough and possibly smokes ~lack) heavily1 then the mixture is to rich. If the engine pops or backfires thru the carburetor, or hesitates during acceleration, the mixture is too lean. In either case, the engine will not deliver full power.

IF THE MIXTURE is too lean, an engine may not start for lack of fuel; if too rich, an engine may not start because it becomes flooded.

FOR ANY OF THE ABOVE DIFFICULTIES, ADJUST THE CARBURETOR As FOLLOWS~

(a) Close the idle mixture and main jet adjusting screws, turning them in a clockwise direction. CAUTION: Carefully turn the screws only until they can be felt to have touched their seats. Too much pressure can change the shape of their needle points and the jets, making proper adjustment difficult or even impossible.

( If the engine has been flooded, open the throttle and the choke. Pull thru several times with the starter to clean out the excess charge.

© Open the idle mixture and main jet adjusting screws 1.5 turns counter-clockwise for initial settings.

(d) Start the engine as instructed under OPERATING PROCEDURES.

(e) With the engines warm and the choke open, adjust idle speed to the desired RPM.

(f) Alternately adjust the idle mixture screw until the engine idles smoothly at the speed required by the specific installation.

(g) Adjust the main jet adjusting screw so the engine, when under load, will accelerate without hesitation, and will run smoothly without excessive smoking at all speeds up to the maximum safe RPM. This may require some re-adjustment of the idle mixture and the idle speed screws' After final adjustment, the minimum setting for the idle mixture screw is 3/4 of a turn open, and 1 (one) turn for the main jet screw.

I hope it helps.

[picksbigwagon]

SO, after reading that, it seems like the 40:1 I am running it at is too rich? Manufacturers recommendations is 40:1, do I swap out and move to a 80:1 amsoil or 100:1 amsoil like many people do here on HSO? I will increase the idle for sure because I think it is just a touch too low when I am drilling holes 7, 8, 9, etc. in a row while scouting an area.

[CaptainMusky]

Picks, fuel mixture in the description above is pertaining to your fuel (and Oil) mixture with AIR, NOT THE OIL!!

A Lean mixture in reference to above is too much air, not enough fuel.

A Rich mixture in reference to above is too much fuel not enough air.

This is irrespective of your fuel/oil ratio. You may receive some benefit by switching to a higher fuel/oil ratio without changing a thing to your carburetor, but the description of steps there is pertaining to air mixing with fuel.