Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Looking for rocks?


bassfshin24

Recommended Posts

So now that I finally have SI on my boat I am doing a lot of scanning for deeper rocks. I have found a few but most are just from driving around. Those that are experts on finding deeper water structure...is there certain things you look for on the lake that will tell you there might be rocks near by? Is there certain depths that you usually cover to find these rocks. It would be nice to narrow down some of the lake so I don't have to SI the whole thing haha. As of right now I am focused on the 10-20ft range. Any tips would help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Start trolling. You'll find them, or you won't.

If you are strictly looking for hard bottom or rocks, or unique structure in deep water, widen your coverage, switch to red/green and the spots should pop out.

Lots of man made rock piles.

Natural rock piles i generally find in sandy/gravel bottoms.

If you are like me and your SI works at full throttle, you can see piles and structure with your SI speed at 10 and boat speed of 29 (My top end)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i usually grab a sandwich and a pop and just start driving. As for depth, Im not going to look in areas I dont think fish will be.. it would be silly to look for rock in 40 feet of water if the fish would not use it. I generally find the weed edge and then add 10 feet, anything much beyond that and I tend to ignore it. But unless we are talking a super large lake, at just under 3 mph, you can cover many lakes in less than about 4-5 hours. And if you cant do that, at least on my area lakes, I would fish for a few hours and then always sched one hour each visit to the lake to just SI. I still even though I think I have found everything.. spend at least 30 mins most every trip out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What DD mentioned is about the only way to do it. It's hard when you only have time to get out once a week and all you want to do it fish though. I've been fishing a lake that is "NO WAKE" so it forces me to idle from spot to spot. I use that as a time to just put around staring at my SI

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try to avoid scanning the deepest flats in the lake, it is almost always 100% muck. Generally the shoreline will give you the best idea where rock piles may lay.

I use the triple screen. Rock or hard bottom will always show up white amongst darker blues, and will be pretty obvious. But on the traditional sonar look for double bottom lines (the lower line being where the hard bottom lies under the muck). Sometimes that will help guide you to a nice rock pile in otherwise barren areas. I have one on my lake that is mostly gravel and probably only 300 square feet (doesn't even rise a full foot from the muck), and it's usually good for a few decent fish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have noticed the double return to be helpful as well. As I learned from a Deitz seminar video, use the long pole trick to FEEL out the bottom. Amazing how well it works and you can definitely tell when you hit rocks or gravel. Now i just need to up grade my 8ft long pole to a 20 footer....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have noticed the double return to be helpful as well. As I learned from a Deitz seminar video, use the long pole trick to FEEL out the bottom. Amazing how well it works and you can definitely tell when you hit rocks or gravel. Now i just need to up grade my 8ft long pole to a 20 footer....

I like to smack a a "trolls to 30" off the bottom sometimes just to get a feel for what's down there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The beauty of side imaging is now it's easy to find all the obvious structure many guys have known about and been beating on for decades.

Welcome to community holes!

Some days you'll pull up to one at the right time and the fish will be ready. Most, they will leave you wondering. The worst is, those spot all have resident bass populations, but most of the time they just won't get going over artificials. You can confirm this by dropping a camera on them,, you'll see bass and walleyes all over...they are just very hard to catch. It's all about timing, and luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.