01 chev p/u 1500 silverodo heater, wipers, gauges, and radio goes on and off.

[Scott K]

The next one I would take a close look at is Ignition B fuse, the 50 amp in the first wiring diagram, on the top left, it feeds power to most of the acc that arent woking for you.

[x1957x]

I checked the 50 amp fuse and looked good but put in a new one and it still didnt start, just turned over. Is there a anti theft program that can shut off this so I cant start it?

[Jeremy airjer W]

and with the key in the run position the little red one sparked and it had 0

A clue? Nothing should be sparking....

[Whoaru99]

Yeah, I'm a little confused...there shouldn't be any sparking if you're just checking voltages on the pins/wires (unless you short something with the probe, that is).

[x1957x]

Yea. I must have crossed something over. Even with the key on is there NOT supposed to be spark or Should be spark? I found the fuse and replaced it. Just turns over WITH GAS AT throttle but does not fire. It really sounds like it wants to go though sometimes. I had a guy tell me that if it is anti theft mode it does make it impossible to start. Just dont know how to reset it though.

[Jeremy airjer W]

In your owners manual it should explain what happens when the anti-theft is active.

Your vehicle is equipped with the Passlock

theft

-

deterrent system.

Passlock is a passive theft

-

deterrent system. Passlock

enables fuel if the ignition lock cylinder is turned with a

valid key. If a correct key is not used or the ignition lock

cylinder is tampered with, fuel is disabled.

If the engine stalls and the SECURITY message flashes,

wait until the light stops flashing before trying to restart

the engine. Remember to release the key from START

as soon as the engine starts.

If the engine is running and the SECURITY message

comes on, you will be able to restart the engine if you turn

the engine off. However, your Passlock system is not

working properly and must be serviced by your dealer.

Your vehicle is not protected by Passlock at this time.

You may also want to check the fuse (see “Fuses and

Circuit Breakers” in the Index).

[x1957x]

Thanks Jeremy. I will check that out when I get home. Here is some thought medicine to.. I noticed the other day that I can pull the KEYS out of the ignition with it turned on. Do I need a new key lock and have to have it programed or can I safely assume with it being loose and pulling out it is still doing its job. With that in mind can this be part of the problem? Oh d i just see the message light come on now. Not the security light

[x1957x]

After it sat for months I started to work on it AGAIN and I did change the fuel pump that wasnt working. Any ways I got a new ign. switch and fuel pump in it now. The battery(red light) light on dash stays on, heater doesnt work, and the gas gauge and temp gauge doesnt work either. The oil gauge and amp gauge do work. When I go to turn it over the digital mileage lights come on but after it starts they go out to. Runs great besides that though!! LOL,, Any ideas on why they dont work?

[Jeremy airjer W]

The ignition switch has a gear looking part on the top. Pop the switch out of its mount. Turn the key to the run position. Use your fingure to rotate the gear of the switch to start the vehicle and then remove your finger. If everything is nowl working you have the switch installed incorrectly. It's easy to do, I have done it several times.

[x1957x]

Jeremy, Hey thanks. Here is what I got. It runs as you said when I do it by hand but nothing works yet like you said which means it isnt the switch.Heres what is on and off,, the red battery light on the message center stays on when running, the wipers, radio, heater, gas gauge, and the temp gauge are the ones that dont work. Ground issue maybe??? Still looking.. Thanks 57

[Jeremy airjer W]

Ground issues usually cause things to go wonky. For example, when you turn on the left turn signal the oil pressure gauge stops working, when you turn on the radio the windshield washer turns on, when you flash the brights the horn blows. all examples of bad grounds making things wonky.

Let me check on some wiring diagrams diagrams in a couple minutes (working on the HSO fantasy NASCAR league at the moment) and ill see what I can find.

My first thought is a blown fuse or missing fuse with all the things you have done and checked so far.

[Jeremy airjer W]

In the underhood junction block check the RADIO fuse and make sure there is power to it. It supplies power to the radio, Driver information center, Instrument panel, and HVAC module.

Next check and make sure there is power to the IGN A, IGN B, and IGN C fuses.

Let me know what you find

[x1957x]

Jeremy, thanks for taking the time to help me again. Here is what I got. IGNA-- key on is 10.6 volts and running 11.6 ;) IGNB--11.6 volts;; ))IGNC will not start with out and with it in and with key on is 12.6 volts;; and the radio fuse with the key on is 9.6 volts and running it is 11.6 volts. All fuses had about a 2-2.3 resistance when testing with the ohm meter. Hopefully this helps you some. Thanks X57X

[Jeremy airjer W]

Stumped!

With the vehicle running you should see 14 volts or more. Check the positive post at the back of the alternator engine off should be battery voltage. Engine running should be 14+ volts. You should see a couple of large wires/terminals at the fuse block under the hood. Some thing. there should be 12 or 14 volts at those terminals.

There are two different switch options for that year. 12 and 14 wire (i think) are you sure you have the right one?

[x1957x]

Jeremy, I flipped the under the hood fuse box over and tested the hot leads and they are at 14.3 volts. This is what I got coming out of the alternator to. I took the vin number off the truck and the switch number off the box of the new one and (the old switch ) down to the part store and it is definately a (10 pin switch). There was a ten pin and a twelve pin I believe he said. So that is the right switch I put in. Any other ideas? Sorry for the headache. I am thinking it is something easily overlooked and just cant put the handle on it,,Is there one terminal on the schematics that run the wipers, heater, temp and gas gauge, and the battery message (red) Light? Why is there only about 10 volts at the radio fuse block? Yea, I am stumped to.

[Jeremy airjer W]

Lets see if we are losing voltage on the positive side or the negative side. With the engine running and the radio fuse installed measure voltage at the radio fuse (one lead on the ground of the battery the other on the check point of the fuse). If less than 14 volts pull the fuse and check the two terminals for voltage. One should show 14 volts and the other should show 0 voltage.

I suspect one will show 14 volts and the other will show 2-3 volts. If this is the case bazinga, we now what the problem is. You have a bad ground and power is back feeding through somewhere.

[x1957x]

Jeremy, Thanks over and over again. Dont mean to sound illiterate but how is the best way to check the voltage at the radio with out pulling the fuse etc. (check point of the fuse) etc.

[x1957x]

Jeremy. Heres what I did. I pulled the radio fuse out a bit and stuck my volt tester in with the the neg side on the battery neg post. On both sides I got 14.3 volts?? but when I took the fuse out while running it showed 14.3 on one side and 2.9 on the other side. Dont know if I did it right but that what I found. Thanks again

[Jeremy airjer W]

on top of the fuse you will see two tiny spots with metal showing. These are the test ports to check fuses when they are installed.

The 2.9 volts is what I suspected. I'm going to assume there is an issue with the G200 ground. I am going to bet it is on the left kick panel up around where the e-brake mechanism is.

Here is something you can check. Find the data link connector under the drivers side of the dash. Locate the black wire and check voltage on that wire. If it reads 2.9 volts ground it with a jumper. This wire ends up at the G200 ground. It should be pin number four. MAKE SURE YOU ONLY GROUND THIS WIRE! If everything starts to work than far out man, you solved it. Repair the ground and your good to go.

[x1957x]

Jeremy. Hi, if I did this correctly I use the connector that you use to check engine codes right? If so there is 5 tiny wires that go into the back and one is black and white and the other is I believe all black. I checked them both grounding on the frame and only getting about a .o1 to a .03 and sometimes nothing. Hope I did this correctly though. Thanks Jeremy. Bear with me buddy!!

[Jeremy airjer W]

i should have said everything we test needs to use the battery for reference. Check that black wire again using a jumper wire from the ground of the battery. If you see 2.9 volts than than start looking for the ground.

[x1957x]

Jeremy , is there a diagram or picture of the exact wire and the location to make sure I am testing the right wire. How big of a wire is it and is it just a single wire all together? All the picsI find say above or below IC on the pillar or something on that order. Need to make sure. Cant really get any volts on anything down under the dash, Thanks again..

[Jeremy airjer W]

That ground is on the end of a splice pack. A bunch of wires going to the same ground. It is possible that the ALDL ground is fine but there can be on issue with some of the other grounds at that splice pack. I don't now exactly where it is but there will be several wires in the splice pack. It shouldn't be to hard to find.

[x1957x]

Jeremy, thanks many times over! I took off the side (kick) cover off and the floor mats. I have a small broken blk wire under mat but no concern. Any ways I followed up the inside of it above the fuse box by the door and there was a trio of maybe 6-10 Black wires into a splice box and bolted on. Thinking this is it I pulled some of the heater stuff and instrument panel off to get a little access to it. I put the ground on the battery and I tested it and sometimes it wouldnt read a thing and sometimes a -0.2 or a -0.3 reading. Not consistant enough but hoping i'm in the right spot. Going to be a heck of a time to get it off to clean to. Does it sound like I am going in the right direction? Didnt really like the reading's but dont really know for sure if that is it. Thanks Many times again!!!! Jeff

[Jeremy airjer W]

Small broken black wire? Isn't that what we are looking for?