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Making Leaders


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Hello,

I'm normally in the bass forum, but I thought this topic would be better answered in this forum or the Musky forum. I have been making my own leaders for a few years now for crankbait fishing for bass. I can't stand store bought leaders because of the big bulky cheap hardware. My main question is what wire leader material is most resistant to breaking? I have only had a couple break and I'm thinking it was because they got kinked and I shouldn't have been using them. I've been using AFW 1x7 Surfstrand in 20-40lb test with Gudebrod Heavy Duty Connector Sleeves. The sleeves seem to hold up well and have not failed when crimped. Is there a better leader material or am I on the right track and should just use new ones more often? FM is the closest thing I have to a mentor, I'm learning this stuff on my own so any and all feedback is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Also, is there a wire leader material that is less shiny than others or a way to dull down the finish on Surfstrand? Thanks.

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Are you currently using the camo brown leader material? That is about as tamed down as you can get over the counter.

As far as breaking, usually starts with a kink. Keep an eye on your leaders is probably the best advice. May also want to try fluorocarbon or some of the Tyger leader material.

I assume you that are getting bit off by slimers is the reason why you are using leaders for the bass? If you are targeting large pike and muskie, let us know. Lots of advice available...

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I am going to start using tie-able titanium wire when throwing shallow cranks over weed flats on a few lakes this year. Makes me sick when I lose a 6 to 15 buck crank to a pike when bass fishing.

I will be using Terminator brand wire.

I like the idea of being able to use wire without all the other hardware...like snaps and swivels and crimps.

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I've been making my own leaders ever since I became disgusted with the commercial ones back in the early 80's. I make both single strand and coated sevenstrand depending on what lure I'll be using. For single strand there are tools available to help with twisting the wire. DuBro makes a good one. For coated sevenstrand I never use the connectors. That was part of the reason I started making my own. Instead, I fuze the plastic together and it's not hard to do. I use a small Vice Grips to clamp to the end of the wire. Add my swivel or snap, Twirl the Grips around, wrapping the tag end wire around the main wire and hold it tight. Then pass it over a candle until the plastic melts and looks fluid. Let it cool and trim the tag end off.

Lots of guys make flourocarbon leaders and find good success with them. In the waters I fish, I've never felt I needed them.

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Are you currently using the camo brown leader material? That is about as tamed down as you can get over the counter.

As far as breaking, usually starts with a kink. Keep an eye on your leaders is probably the best advice. May also want to try fluorocarbon or some of the Tyger leader material.

I assume you that are getting bit off by slimers is the reason why you are using leaders for the bass? If you are targeting large pike and muskie, let us know. Lots of advice available...

Yes it's the camo color. Yes I'm trying to keep the pike from stealing my more expensive hard baits. I figured I should just replace a leader as soon as it gets kinked but haven't always done it. I will from now on. I'm not sure how I feel about flouro for leaders. I feel like I would have to go to such a high lb test to make it pike proof that it would defeat the purpose of its low vis properties. On the other hand I wouldn't have to worry about it kinking.

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I am going to start using tie-able titanium wire when throwing shallow cranks over weed flats on a few lakes this year. Makes me sick when I lose a 6 to 15 buck crank to a pike when bass fishing.

I will be using Terminator brand wire.

I like the idea of being able to use wire without all the other hardware...like snaps and swivels and crimps.

I may give that stuff a try too.

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If your just trying to keep the occasional small northern off try 30-40# fluorocarbon. It will also help your smaller lures action, not to mention it is lighter than steel so you can use top water with it. Mono works too, but is thicker.

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If done correctly, you could pull a truck with that leader and the wire would break long before that connection would. You just want to make sure the plastic coating is completely melted so it flows together. It can be a bit touchy until you get the hang of it. As you're passing it back & forth over the candle you'll notice the plastic start to blister at first. At that point, you want to pass it back & forth quickly so it doesn't burst into flame. If it does, it causes a weak spot and you'd be better off pitching it and starting over. Pass it over the candle until the plastic looks fluid.

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You are most welcome Chak. It's kinda hard to discribe without the use of photos but I hope it will suffice. The best instructions are in my book.

I want to clairify something I stated earlier about flourocarbon leaders. In pressured waters I could see where these might come into play. And even where I fish, during extreme weather changes when fish become finicky, they might put a few more fish in the boat. But, I do pretty well using what I have for decades so I stick with that. Call me "old school", I'm good with that.

And as for the strength of these leaders, we have put hundreds of pike over 20lbs (seriously) in the boat with them. Last year alone, my wife Mary and I caught nearly 30 pike over 20lbs, with the biggest at just a shade under 30lbs, on these leaders.

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Everything has its drawbacks. Solid and stranded wire both kink. Flouro can get nicked and knots are a pita in heavy diameters. I read an article a while back by Doug Stange where he recommended Surfstrand Micro Supreme. It's 49-strand (7x7) so very flexible I looked for it everywhere with no success. Finally googled it and Amazon has it so I ordered some. It will be here Thursday, so I'll get to try it out next week.

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The very best steel leader I have ever used is Cortland Toothy Critter. It did not kink any worst than mono line, and was very thin. For Fluorocarbon leader, I like Seaguar. If you want to use top water, I would recomend 50# mono. Mono is very cheap, and floats. Fluro is good overall, and steel will nearly guarantee no bite offs. For pike Jack is right, I don't think steel puts off too many bites. I fish some very heavily pressured lakes, so I'm trying fluro. I'm no expert on bass, but in my experience, any bass will still hit a lure with a steel leader, especially if you are targeting another species.

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