Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Aerating the lawn


kingr

Recommended Posts

Which method, "plug" or "spike", would you prefer to aerate the lawn? We bought a house last summer and while the grass is in fairly good shape, the yard is very uneven, needs to be thatched, and I beleive needs to be aerated.

Thanks,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks,

That's what I was leaning towards. Lunker, yes I know it's a little more work but hopefully a well timed rain and a couple mowings will help remove the extra mess the plugs create.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It all depends on your soil and what you want to achieve, There is a little more work involved with plugs since you have to either drag them to bust em up or rake and shovel them up...

I've never done any of that. They breakdown by themselves in a relatively short time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went through this whole process las spring with my lawn. The spike method is worthless in from the research I've done. It will actually in some cases make things worse. Since it doesn't remove a plug it actually packs your lawn together and makes less oxygen and your fertalizer more likely to penetrate the soil. I rented an areter and did it myself and then seeded after that then did a little quick hand raking to break up the plugs over the seed and hurry the process of them decomposing. It is also recommended that you fertalize when this is completed with a fertalizer that is just fertalizer no weed killer or crab grass killer in it so the seeds have an extra push to grow. Next step is to wait until your lawn is fairly long and let it grow and try to avoid trafic on your lawn. After this process my lawn bounced back great.

Remember you also dont want to thatch your lawn right now when it is still somewhat dormant. Wait until it is alive and green and it can handle it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Tim,

I'm thinking I'm going to aerate it, break up the plugs some what, and then put down some weed-n-feed with crabgrass control for now.

Then this summer I'll hit it with straight weed killer plus crabgrass and then through fertilizer on it this fall.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Plug style has worked much better than spikes...I like to have the ground pretty moist so it pulls up a good plug...never had to break up plugs in all my years of doing it. They break up and dissolve back into the ground themselfs.

Also, weed and feed is usually separate from crabgrass control...I usually run crabgrass/fertilizer as first application and then when/if the broad leafs are popping up I will hit them on a nice dewy morning before work and whatch them die.

JP

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used the plug rigs. The whole process is hard work. The rig seems to have a life of it's own and you end up nearly chasing it across the yard. You have to keep the engine running fast enough to keep it going and once you get going it really takes off. My yard has a slop to it and there is no thing as a straight line while going sideways. I just sort of let it curve and then I try to run it the opposite direction going up hill as best I can. The yard looks like a mess right after you finish, as if hundreds of geese have spent a long time checking it out. But good seed and some starter fertilizer and in a couple of weeks the lawn looks great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hows about using a pull behind plugger instead of a machine? I'm hoping to do some aerating this spring, but my yard is huge. I'll probably only do maybe a couple acres around the house, and am hoping to find an implement I can pull behind an ATV that will pull plugs efficiently. Anybody ever use something like this?

We have a few high traffic areas in our yard that are packed pretty hard. Suppose I should run over these areas several times???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Breaking up the plugs is only nessessary if you are overseeding and you want to get it going a little faster. In high traffic areas you can just plug the chit out of it over seed it, fertalize it and try to stay away from it for a couple of weeks and it will come back fast.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the information. I think my plan is after I have a couple trees taken down the week of the 20th, I'll rent a plug aerator and then throw the weedkiller down followed by fertilizer a couple days after.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sam, I manage 3 soccer fields and one baseball field for a small township.

Small budget too so I use a pull behind plug aerator. They work OK but the ground will need to moist and you'll max it out with weight to get any penetration.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea, our rental shop in town has a pull behind unit, but the guy that owns and runs the place won't even let anyone rent the unit unless we've seen recent significant rainfall.

You're absolutely right Frank. The ground will have to be pretty soft to make this work, so I'm just going to have to wait for the right conditions. No way I'm going to kill myself trying to run one of those wildly possessed plugging machines around 2 acres of hillside property. shocked

Thanks for the heads up though, and thanks for committing your time to the local diamonds! Hope the locals appreciate your hard work!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.