triton opinions

[apegs]

I have been posting alot as of recently, looking to buy my first boat and want to make sure Im happy with it. Looking at a 2001 Triton bass boat tr 186. I would like to hear peoples opinions and experiences on Triton boats from around this year. Whether its positive or negative let me hear your opinions please.

[TR21HP]

apegs, I had a 2001 TR21 and a 2004 Tr21 and really liked both boats. Great finish, really quick, good storage but these earlier models had a tendency to chine walk. Both boats were high 70's, low eighties boats and you had to learn to drive them. Fortunately I was taught by Hella bass's dad who really knew how to drive boats and it became second nature. What does it have for a motor and electronics?

[apegs]

It has a yahmaha xr6 150 which sound bulletproof so I like that and humminbird tronics. He said it will start to chine walk up in the 62 , 64 range but said at that speed your really pushing the boat past its rated specs. I would loke to bwlieve it would be tough to get it up to that speed unless you had a very light load

[bassfshin24]

I have a 99 Triton TR-18 and love it. It does start to chine walk in the lower 60's but your usually not going that fast very often. They are great rough water boats for being a 18ft. My next boat will probably be a triton as well.

[Superduty]

The TR-186 is pretty easy to drive. I had one for a few years in the early 2000's. You likely won't see 64 mph unless it is loaded very light. Mine would only chine if I fished alone and had VERY little gas and gear in the boat. It's a great first bassboat for anyone. Lots of storage and fishes big for it's size. It's fast enough but you won't get into too much trouble at top end. The XR6 is a carbed motor that will be moody when it's cold and even when it gets really hot. They had a good reputation and have less to go wrong than the fuel injected motors. It's a boat I would highly recommend to someone new to bassboats!

[TR21HP]

apegs, The XR6 is a 2.5 merc and Superduty nailed it when he said she's a little cold blooded but it still is a great setup and is a really nice first bass boat should you decide to get it.

[apegs]

Ok thanks guys for the input. I was originally trying to get my hands on a champion but a price could not be settled on. This Triton set up sounds like a good first bass boat

[Deitz Dittrich]

I owned a 2001 TR186pdc(pro deck, dual console) 150 Johnson.. was a great boat.. good livewells, good storage.. I will echo everything SuperDuty said.. easy boat to drive, only chine walked if I had NO GEAR, livewells empty and just me in the boat.. top speed I had was 63.7.. otherwise loaded I was 55-57 and no chine walk. Negatives--none really.. I just wanted a bigger boat..hence why I sold it. I recently talked to the guy who bought it and he still loves the boat.

[apegs]

I am not to familiar with chine walking, just wondering if it is dangerous? Or is it just a slight wobble that doesnt really affect anything.

[Deitz Dittrich]

if you let it get bad enough it can be very dangerous. It only happens when going very fast and that alone makes it dangerous. Its way more than a slight wobble if you let it.and you can read all you want on the net, until you actually feel it, its really hard to describe.

[apegs]

Ok. It sounds scary, I have spoken to a guy on hear on how to correct it while in motion. It sounds like I most likely will never be that light of a load and going that fast for it to happen. Since im new to driving it will take me a while to go full throttle till o learn the physics of driving a boat

[Deitz Dittrich]

You will be surprised. Im not sure what you are used to.. but I remember when I got my first glass boat I thought the same thing. You will be buzzing along it will feel like 30mph you will look down at the speedo and it will say 50 and it will freak you out.

The biggest thing you need to remember is the things dont have breaks... makes sure you always have enough room to shut it down.

[Craigums]

You will be a little apprehensive about going fast for the first hour behind the wheel. Then you wont think twice about it.

[bturck]

If you do shut it down, do it slowly, dropping that throttle quickly can result in the bow dipping very fast and can result in end over end. Just ease it back a little at a time. Oh, and have some extra undies, you may need em that first time....

[apegs]

are you talking if I was going full boar and had to shut it down fast?

[Pherris]

are you talking if I was going full boar and had to shut it down fast?

Chine walk only occurs at high speeds. To correct the situation as mentioned it is best to slowly pull back on the throttle or let off the pedal slowly. If you just completely kill the speed the bow drops into the water Immediatly potentially creating a situation where the rear of the boat is moving faster then the front and in RARE occassions cause a boat to flip or lose control of the boat. Here is a good article on the topic:

Chinewalk: You AIN'T "Driving THROUGH It"!

by Ken Cook

"Chinewalk" requires some definition if we're going to talk about it.

First, "What is a "chine"?" The chine of a hull is where the bottom joins the side. It may be "hard" (a well defined edge) or "soft" (significant rounding, often merely a gentle curve with no definitive break between bottom and side).

ChineWALK is a violent, often rapid, side to side oscillation. Technically, it is literally bouncing from one chine to the other. True chinewalk is one of the most dangerous events that a boater can experience. Any padV hull can chinewalk if there are hull problems, setup is wrong or the driver is inexperienced. Certain wave/wake conditions can force even the experienced driver to deal with chinewalk on a properly set up hull as well.

NOW! Does your boat CHINEWALK? If it does, you have hull/setup problems or you have not yet learned to drive it. Chinewalk cannot be "driven through", but it must be driven OUT OF when it occurs. Typically, the driver must ease out of the throttle while keeping the helm straight. This is not ALWAYS the answer, but dumping the throttle and/or attempting to steer out of this condition can cause total loss of control and lead to an accident, rather than an adrenaline rush, tripled heart rate and a dirty seat.

ALL PadVs have a tendency to "fall off the pad" to starboard (right). This is NOT chinewalk, but, if not corrected, will result in chinewalk! Driving a padV to its limits is a "high wire" or "balancing" act. Prop (engine) torque and load balance are the major factors (assuming a straight hull and good setup) in this condition. Both can be controlled and, in many cases, virtually eliminated.

THE FIRST STEP in gaining control is to assure that the engine is properly mounted (centered and plumb) and there are no hull defects (rocker or hook). Beyond a certain engine height, torque will exist no matter how well balanced the load (see below) and NO, hydraulic steering DOES NOT eliminate torque, it "masks" it. A welded, properly adjusted skeg mounted torque tab will minimize this condition.

BALANCING THE LOAD: As most hulls have a starboard driver console, there is a "built-in" load imbalance to starboard when there is only one occupant. This automatically increases the tendency to fall off to starboard. Proper positioning of batteries and other accessories is one step in minimizing this condition. This is a "static" or not easily adjustable parameter. "Overloading" or storing most tackle and other "removable" items in port (left) side rod and/or storage box(es) helps to achieve balance. Hulls with side-by-side livewells and/or dual fuel tanks offer additional solutions when fishing alone. A 30 gallon livewell system with port side only filled adds about 120 pounds (15 gal @ 8 pounds/gal) to port of centerline and contributes about half that or 60 pounds to balancing the load. Although it would decrease cruising range, similar gains can be achieved by limiting fuel in the starboard fuel tank. Gasoline weighs about 6 pounds per gallon. Do the math! If both fuel tanks must be full at the beginning of the trip, start by using the starboard tank and balance will improve as fuel is consumed. When you add a second occupant, dynamic balance changes and requires a re-think of "what's where?" to balance the load again. If the hull balance is good and the design has "3 across" seating, consider placing the passenger in the center seat for minimum impact.

OKAY, everything's "perfect". The hull is well balanced, mechanical setup is spot on and, if not a pussycat, the boat is now a well trained lion. What I mean is that the stability is still a dynamic condition. Environmental conditions (wind, waves, an unexpected wake or a required rapid/emergency maneuver) are always changing and trying to push the hull off balance. Constant awareness and an almost automatic response (this comes with the now classic phrase, "seat time") are required to assure continued safe, controlled operation. The ball's in your court. Experienced drivers can help you learn, but you must spend the time behind the wheel and learn to anticipate the hull's next "move".

"Wait a minute! How DO I drive it?" The generic answer is "small helm corrections to port as required". Not really a definitive answer, is it? No one can TELL you how to drive YOUR boat. I know it's frustrating and you get tired of hearing or reading "seat time". Although you will pick up pointers, even "show and tell" with an experienced driver at the helm and you as observer will not be enough. The corrections become so nearly automatic that it's hard to communicate "why" I did that or "when" to do it. Overcorrection to port throws the hull past centerline and it tries to fall to port. Undercorrection to port allows the hull to continue to fall to starboard and requires additional correction to port, often resulting in overcorrection. Each under or overcorrection requires a larger correction to compensate and, if that correction is too much or too little, the oscillation increases. This is the beginning of chinewalk, the time to ease out of the throttle and start over BEFORE it becomes dangerous.

You CAN do it! You must set aside on the water time to concentrate on your driving skills just as you would learning a new fishing technique.

Ken's Boating & Fishing Page

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