winniewalleye777 Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 I am currently working on putting a floor in my lund s14. I took out the middle bench seat leaving 15 inches on each side for storage. The question I am currently pondering is the thickness of plywood I should put in. Debating between 1/2 and 3/4 in. marine grade plywood. I am a little worried about weight, which is why i am leaning 1/2 at this point. Is there a big difference in weight betweent the two? i am planning on carpeting over the top. Any input is appreciated. Here is my progress so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goose89 Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 3/4" would be overkill, IMO. 1/2" marine plywood primed and painted with waterproof paint.....good to go.....nice mod! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that_guy Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 I used 1/2in on my 14' that I modded last year. I honestly believe I overbuilt my mod fairly significantly. I used 2x4's and 1/2in. I think my boat sat maybe 2in lower in the water. You'll love how it looks when you are done!Everything I read online told me 4x8 1/2in weighs in around 50lbs/sheet, 3/4in is near 75. I guesstimated at 60lbs/sheet after I sealed it all up and covered in carpet. It may be on the high end, but I'd rather assume it weighs more than it does.Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxMN Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 If you are going to use 1/2" you will need another support down the middle, or it will bounce. I would also not use wood for the bracing support (assuming you just have those 2xs for temp working), but find some alum tube or other alum I or Channel. I would also go 3/4 marine myself, after doing a boat in 5/8". Especially if you can offset the wood support weight with alum. If you do 1/2" you best put some cross bracing in too under the floor.You will want to tie the supports at the bow end into that seat as well, can use alum angle riveted direct to front bench, and it would hold the plywood up.I'd also run a plastic tube (flex stuff form Menards for like $3...) down the middle under the floor, with a string in it, for potential future use in pulling wires forward with ease. Nice and clean, and easy, for lights, locator, troll motor, etc. and it protects the wiring.Anybody who has seen my post in rehab threads know I am a fan of vinyl over carpet, bigtime. Dot Deco brand.Don't forget to put extra support under wherever you might put a seat base. Fun project, good luck! Take lots of pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinkfloyd4ever Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 I would think you could even get away with 3/8 since you have 2x4s in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamms-scooter Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 What did you use to cut the bench? Looks pretty good. I am planning on doing some modds to my boat as well surfing for ideas. Good build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winniewalleye777 Posted March 10, 2013 Author Share Posted March 10, 2013 What did you use to cut the bench? Looks pretty good. I am planning on doing some modds to my boat as well surfing for ideas. Good build I just used a skill saw and took my time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Down Deep Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 If you want to do a really custom job construct a frame using aluminum. Frame should have beams running the length of the boat on both sides and center with cross beams on 16 inch centers. If you want to do the budget job construct the frame out of 2 X 2 green treated studs. I wouldn't use anything less than 5/8 marine grade plywood for the flooring. Marine grade will be expensive. Then cover with a vinyl flooring or marine grade carpet. Using wood will add more of weight. I would also opt to make the floor removable. You can lock it down by using bolt locks with the slip handles. Making floor removable will enable you to make future repairs. Be sure to leave channels for adequate drainage under the floor. Note: Don't use a carpet with loops or you will spend lots of time picking out treble hooks. If you took out floatation from the center seat you will need to add floatation back within the floor frame. Use closed cell foam which will also add stability to the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winniewalleye777 Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 Here is the progress so far. This is my prototype floor I made out of a crappy board they used to pack the marine grade plywood with. Fits pretty darn good. Next step is to make the final product. I chose 1/2 inch plywood. Will keep posting pictures as progress is made Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanderer Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 I think you made the right choice in thickness.I put a floor in my 16 ft Lund a couple years ago and was surprised to see how thin the original was. The marine dealer I picked up my plywood from recommeded the same.Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winniewalleye777 Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 Well I finally finished! 2 small storage compartments He got bored. The whole project probably cost me $200. $50 for plywood. $100 for carpet. $50 for beer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishnowworknever Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Nice! Looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landscaper Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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