Insulation

[Gatores]

I plan on insulating my garage in the next few weeks and looking for some input. Menards has Kraft faced and unfaced for basically the same price and was wondering if there is any advantage to one or the other? The rafters are made from 2x4's and was going to sheet the ceiling with OSB board and then would it be better to lay the bats in there or blow in? Or maybe the R-13 that is the same thickness as 2x4"s and then blow in on top of that?

[K_Josh87]

i would use friction fit as it is easier to see that you have everything tucked in correctly, and your kraft face DOES NOT provide a vapor barrier unless you tape EVERY seam, and IMO it will still be a less sealed system than the friction fit with poly taped and sealed with acoustical sealant. Your attic area would be best done properly polyed and taped, install lid material, then blow in fiberglass or cellulose.

Is this garage attached to the house or detached? If it is attached I would consider something other than OSB for the lid as a fire precaution...

thats my professional

[Gatores]

Thanks for the reply. The garage is attached to the house. Is friction fit the same thing as unfaced? Would it be pointless to put the bats in the attic and then blow insulation on top of that. Sealed with acoustical sealant? what is that

[tonkapat]

Nothing wrong with kraft back insulation. That would be my choice as I disagree with using poly. Don't use osb for your lid. Blow the attic if its not for storage.

[Tom7227]

I don't know about ND but I would bet that OSB is a code violation in MN. It MIGHT give the insurance company a way to deny or minimize a claim if you had one. If you go ahead with it I would make darn sure that the common wall was rocked all the way to the peak and keep it in perfect shape.

[K_Josh87]

you can spend a lot of money on tape to seal kraft faced correctly at 15 dollars a roll... and you still need a good way to seal your corner between the wall and ceiling, and to seal the bottom plate and window/door openings (this is where the acoustical sealant comes in, it is a caulk like material in a tube) I have been in and fixed Kraft faced jobs where the seams where not taped up and sealed correctly, and all you get is major troubles with condensation and frost, which leads to mold issues.... Do it right, the garage i assume will be higher moisture content due to parking vehicles in there, the last think you need is a break in that barrier to cause issues. I wouldn't mess with batts and then blowing, I would just blow it in. You might also check with a insulation contractor on blowing it in... the guy I use around here is fair priced and its much quicker an less painful for them to come in and blow it in a half hour, rather than a few hours plus dealing with Menards on there machine that needs two separate 30amp circuits to run...

Yes friction fit is the same as unfaced.

[PurpleFloyd]

you can spend a lot of money on tape to seal kraft faced correctly at 15 dollars a roll... and you still need a good way to seal your corner between the wall and ceiling, and to seal the bottom plate and window/door openings (this is where the acoustical sealant comes in, it is a caulk like material in a tube) I have been in and fixed Kraft faced jobs where the seams where not taped up and sealed correctly, and all you get is major troubles with condensation and frost, which leads to mold issues.... Do it right, the garage i assume will be higher moisture content due to parking vehicles in there, the last think you need is a break in that barrier to cause issues. I wouldn't mess with batts and then blowing, I would just blow it in. You might also check with a insulation contractor on blowing it in... the guy I use around here is fair priced and its much quicker an less painful for them to come in and blow it in a half hour, rather than a few hours plus dealing with Menards on there machine that needs two separate 30amp circuits to run...

Yes friction fit is the same as unfaced.

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