2005 F-150 running rough

[randerson]

my brother has a 2005 f-150 with about 200k on it and it is really missing, but smooths out once he can get around 65 but there is no power and it takes some time to get there. Thinking a coil pack from what he has read on line and suggestion to find out which one

[mabr]

Has it thrown a code? If so go to an auto parts store and have it read. Sounds like a coil to me as well but it could be plugs. I just went through this with my old 06. They replaced 3 coil packs, changed plugs and still couldnt figure out what it was. That many miles id say its for sure in need of plugs soon, and get ready to feel like you have been raped. There a pain in the butt to get out and break more often than not.

[suncruiser234]

Coils and plugs fixed my misfire on my 06. Coils were under warranty, but the plugs cost around $320. The dealer, North Country Ford recommended to change the plugs every 70,000 miles. None broke off on mine.

[randerson]

I have heard of the plugs being a nightmare I remember my 03 Hemi was a pain in the A$$ plus there was 16 of them

[Macgyver55]

More than likely a coli pack! Not always but the most common one I find bad is the furthest one back on the passenger side! .

[Jeremy airjer W]

Yup, #4 is the most common, followed by #7, followed by #8, and then it's just a dump shoot.

If its running that bad the check engine light should be on and/or flashing. Checking the codes will give you the best clue as to the problem or the cylinder that is causing the problem.

[Lund4ver]

Sounds like coil or coils are bad, and probably plugs. My 05 felt like the tranmission was going out when I tried to accelerate from 60 mph to around 70 then smoothed out. It was a coil pack that was fouling out at that load.

North Country Ford did the plugs on my truck and I was also a luck one with 126,000 miles that didn't have a plug break off. Should be good to go for another 100,000 miles.

[randerson]

#2 and #4 plugs were shot replaced and now runs smooth even tranny issues at 40-50 now went away to plug tool was a great investment and tool manufactures are making a killing at $125 but it was money well spent

[randerson]

Now it's been working great till this am when we went to leave for Mille Lacs and it wouldn't start just turns over it was out side during the past trenchle rains but now when turning key doesn't seem to be priming the fuel system. Maybe fuel pump?

[Scott K]

Now it's been working great till this am when we went to leave for Mille Lacs and it wouldn't start just turns over it was out side during the past trenchle rains but now when turning key doesn't seem to be priming the fuel system. Maybe fuel pump?

While cranking the engine, does the check engine light go off?

Also fuel pump driver modules are very common, and are mounted above the spare tire on the drivers side.

[randerson]

Sounds like the light goes out during the cranking

[Scott K]

Well that indicates it is getting an RPM signal, so I would be looking into the Fuel pump driver module. Sometimes when you disconnect the electrical connector, the module is so brittle it crumbles. That would be the easiest to diagnose that it is bad. Otherwise, you will have to back probe the electrical connector, and put a volt meter between the Brown with white tracer wire, and the pink with a black tracer wire, and measure the voltage between those two wire while cranking the engine. It should be above 10 volts. If it is less then 10 volts, check the voltage between the white wire and black wire while cranking, if you have 10+ volts, you more then likely have a bad fuel pump driver module.

[JosMN]

Had the same problem with my old 97 f150, was a 4.6 though. Found that when it would rain, water would leak through the rear of the hood seal, directly down into if I remember right, #8 cylinder. Fixed the seal, threw in a new plug and coil with a little dieletric grease and took care of the problem. I havent tried to do a 5.4 plug change, nor would I want to. Luckily mine were done by the dealer prior to owning both of my 5.4s - or so the service records show....

[randerson]

FPPM it was

[randerson]

ok now the truck ran pretty good all weekend and now he was coming home from work today and it barely stayed running and is idling really rough. I drove truck home from brainerd last night and it ran just fine. If its not one thing its another. Checked fuel cap that was on tight, There is a new fuel filter,air filter,spark plugs one coil pack was replaced new FPPM all in the last couple weeks

[randerson]

now he's getting a ignition coil g code?

[Scott K]

#7

[Scott K]

A p0357??

[randerson]

Now it's a o308 and we just put a new coil pack in 2 min ago on #8

[Scott K]

p0308, doesnt mean it is a bad coil pack, it means there is a missfire, and it most likely is from #8. It could be, a spark plug, an injector, a pcm trigger, a broken vallve spring, vacuum leak, etc..

Did he, or someone else by chance, wash the engine? Or drive it through a water puddle, and it splashed ontop of the engine? On 05 F150, injectors were pretty common to go bad, and in fact, Ford extended the warranty for injectors to 11 years, 120k.

[Scott K]

Just an fyi, codes dont tell you what is wrong with a vehicle, they give a direction to go to diagnose a vehicle. For each code, there is a diagnostic flow chart to follow, and perform tests, to find the part that is bad. You can sometimes skip the steps, and replace the common part that goes bad, and get lucky, but a code is just a guidance tool, it isnt the tell all as to what is actually wrong. That is why shops charge for diag, it isnt as easy as pulling a code, and charging you $100 labor for diagnostics. Some times yes, but not always.

[randerson]

Thanks maybe try a injector Any tricks for those

[Macgyver55]

There must be something in the air...

Early last week I checked codes for a friend and found #1 bad on his 03 Expedition. Replaced the coil, cleared the code, ran nice on the test drive. Two days later the light was on again, checked the codes #3 coil bad. Put in a coil, cleared the code and ran good on the test drive. Two days later light on again, checked codes #4 cylinder miss. Put in a coil, cleared the code and ran good on the test drive. Been good for a few days so far, have my fingers crossed for him.....

[Scott K]

Ford coil packs do not like water/moisture so if the engine was washed, that will happen more times then not!

P030X codes are a missfire detected code. The way it is generated is it takes the crank shaft sensor, and tone ring on the crank shaft, and divides it by the number of cylinders, in your case, 8. Now if the last 1/8 of the crank pulley takes a couple micro seconds longer to get to the next cylinder (#1) then all the other cylinders, it sets a code for number 8, because it is slower to get through that part of the rotation. Problems with the p030x codes, lets say the cylinder before missed 8 missed, and the engine didnt drop speed, until the next cylinder, it would show up as #8, rather then the cylinder that was actually missing. On newer vehicles, the computer is programmed for other cylinders to make up for the loss of the missing cylinder, and this can mask its self internal diagnostics, and throw a wrong code. Also the crank shaft rotates 2 times, per cylinder that is missfiring, so it can sometimes pick up the opposing cylinder in the firing order. aka the 5.4 order is 1372 6548 so if #2 was missing, it sometimes could set a code for p0308, or if #1, or #4.

Now if it was a p035x number, that indicates a coil circuit for a certain cylinder. p0358, indicates a coil circuit is bad, aka a shorted primary circuit, or a secondary circuit internally shorted to ground, or to the primary side.

OK, blah, blah, blah, sorry.

[randerson]

Now it gets a to lean code on bank 2and to rich on bank 1 and random misfire