Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Best Braid for topwater?


Fordo

Recommended Posts

I know alot of you use mono for topwater but those of you who like braid whats your favorite? Ive been using Fireline braid the last couple years because it floats well but I had some problems with line snaps towards the end of last year and am looking for something new

Link to comment
Share on other sites

50 pound power pro for me. I've used it for frogs and heavy pitching/flipping for the past 5 years and its never broke (besides from northern or muskie). I've also had a spool last for 2 or 3 years If not heavily used or a bad birdsnest. Usually I'll replace it once a year just to be safe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

line snaps in my experience are typically associated with the lighter # braids. i've seen it many times with friends that spool the lighter stuff. i don't have any issues with line snaps with 50# on my bassin set ups. anything under 40# is too light for my liking. i use power pro myself and have for ever...but i may try the new PP super 8 slick the next time i spool up.

a buddy of mine uses suffix and all is good there as well...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Suffix 832 30lb. I can cast farther with 30 vs 50 and haven't had any break off's with the 832, well so far.

+1 for PowerPro from me.

Had Sufix 832 on one of my rods last year and it was about as obnoxious as it can get for topwater uses. I liked it in general as a braid, but ended up putting it on my small muskie rod because it sinks and PowerPro doesn't. End of discussion for me.

Added: Oh, and I use 30lb for most open water topwater, and 65lb for froggin or anything in the slop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help guys. I was looking at the suffix 832 and I heard it was slow sinking which turned me off. The line has to float for the topwater fishing I do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Power pro for me but only for frogs in cover. I use mono for all chug baits, spooks, buzz baits and wake baits. Mono floats better and is more forgiving when fishing baits with treble hooks.

I noticed Sufix makes a stretchable braid now that some might want to check out but I will be sticking with mono for topwater.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm planning on trying the PP Slick this year too. One thing I am wondering about is how strong the knot will be between the slick braid and either a fluoro or mono leader as I use leaders with braid most of the time on my spinning reel setups. I haven't had a problem with the knot using regular power pro but the slick line appears to be more slippery and might not have as good knot strength. Anybody have any experience with this?

30# power pro with a mono leader. Will be power pro super slick this year...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

something i do for treb baits & braid. i back off my drag just enough so that it works as a shock absorber. i personally never use mono or fluoro leaders myself. i just direct tie and use a rapala loop knot for my walk the doggies or with certain cranks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.