Roscoe010 Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I have a 1986 Johnson 50 hp tiller on my boat. There is a long bolt near the steering handle that is used to adjust the tension on the motor, so a if you let go of the handle while under way the motor will not spin and throw you out of the boat. I have this bolt tightened all the way down and the motor will not stay put, it always pulls hard to the left. While driving I need to always keep my hand on the motor handle to avoid the "circle of death." Can this part be replaced? I hope so, it would make driving the boat much safer. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregg52 Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 the reason it pulls hard is you dont have trimed right when you are movingi would presume you could find a new bolt for that pretty easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marine_man Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I've seen the friction hold system wear out over time.. so replacing parts is the first place I'd start. Greg is right on though.. trimming up your motor will help with torque steer.. adjusting the trim tab will help as well.marine_man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider4ever Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Yeah, don't rely on the friction control. They do not work. Got thrown from my 14ft. with a 25hp (Yes it was rated for it) Friction control was maxed. I was 6'2" and 285 at the time. Luckily I got thrown clear of the circle of death. Not wearing a life jacket, kill cord not attached, took my hand off the tiller to adjust the sticky seat at nearly WOT (did that dozens of times without issue). Yes it was my fault, yes I was not being safe, but I am telling you that the friction control was maxed at the time. Now: 1. have a suspender type, auto-inflate Stearns (it works, I bought two rearming kits and tested it) and I wear it all the time I'm in a boat (best $180.00 I ever spent). 2. The kill cord is ALWAYS attached to the life jacket when the motor is running (Works. Test it regularly). 3. I bought a Crestliner 1750 Fish Hawk SC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roscoe010 Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 Thanks guys! I will buy replacement parts and be sure to adjust the trim accordingly when I get back on the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delcecchi Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Thanks guys! I will buy replacement parts and be sure to adjust the trim accordingly when I get back on the water. Also adjust that little tab on the bottom of the anti-ventilation plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebelSS Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Also adjust that little tab on the bottom of the anti-ventilation plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatfixer Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Nope, anti-ventilation plate is the correct name. Cavitation is what occurs when it ventilates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delcecchi Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Actually cavitation and ventilation are two different things, totally. Ventilation happens when the prop starts sucking air from the surface. Cavitation occurs when something moves through water in such a way as to cause vapor/vacuum bubbles to form which then rapidly collapse. Cavitation can be extremely distructive. It is an anti-ventilation plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatfixer Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 No arguments here, we're on the same page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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