grinding clutch weights?

[broken_line]

could someone explain to me how adding the notch in the face of the weight will increase engagement? im looking to get around a 5800-6000 rpm engagement i have a polaris gold spring the hardest you can get and im around 5000 what else could i do to get it up there?

[MN Mike]

When you notch a weight, it will take more effort ( RPM ) for that arm to pull itself out of that notch, hence the higher engagement.

It doesn't take much of a notch for it to effect your engagement RPM.

Are you sure you want that high of engagement?

Mike

[Macgyver55]

Unless its for a racing setup 6000 is too high for a trail sled. Its going to wreak havoc on mileage among other things, not to mention increased belt wear, accelerated engine wear and poor drive-ability if done wrong.

Unless you know someone with experience in grinding weights it can be an expensive experiment. Once ground too far there is no going back, you start over with a new set. Also, the more you take off the less they weigh and you may never get full engagement without enough weight or higher RPM. It can be a very time consuming, expensive trial and error method. You also need to know where the most powerful part of you power band is in order to do it correctly. You would be money ahead to research and buy pre-ground, pre-tested weights that are proven by testing for your particular preference. Also, without making necessary tuning and adjustments to the motor the clutch may very well result in worse performance.

[tonkapat]

Hot seat sells them prenotched. Plenty of aftermarket springs available. If you are so gung ho about your holeshot start with checking your belt deflection first. Make sure your belt is in good shape. Clean your clutches etc.... Spend the money on things that need attention.

[broken_line]

it will be for mainly ditch hopping and climbing hills. what should the belt deflection be? right now i have 1.25 cold and 1.75 warm, i degreased then graphite lubed the primary and secondary havent been able to run it since. i dont need the sled to go over about 45-50 mph but i would like it to get there quick

[MN Mike]

Unless its for a racing setup 6000 is too high for a trail sled. Its going to wreak havoc on mileage among other things, not to mention increased belt wear, accelerated engine wear and poor drive-ability if done wrong.

Unless you know someone with experience in grinding weights it can be an expensive experiment. Once ground too far there is no going back, you start over with a new set. Also, the more you take off the less they weigh and you may never get full engagement without enough weight or higher RPM. It can be a very time consuming, expensive trial and error method. You also need to know where the most powerful part of you power band is in order to do it correctly. You would be money ahead to research and buy pre-ground, pre-tested weights that are proven by testing for your particular preference. Also, without making necessary tuning and adjustments to the motor the clutch may very well result in worse performance.

Agree with that 100%! You're embarking on a time consuming and possibly expensive venture trying to do this yourself. Find a speed shop or a race team and work them for some advice, lot's of different items go into tuning your sled to where you want it.

Mike

[Macgyver55]

it will be for mainly ditch hopping and climbing hills. what should the belt deflection be? right now i have 1.25 cold and 1.75 warm, i degreased then graphite lubed the primary and secondary havent been able to run it since. i dont need the sled to go over about 45-50 mph but i would like it to get there quick

The easiest and least expensive way to accomplish this for ditch riding is with gearing. Put on a smaller top gear and/or a bigger bottom gear in the chain case. That will drop your ratio and keep your clutch working in its proper range without overtaxing your motor.

The problem there is they are two different kinds of riding. Hill climbing (at least in the mountains) requires a good amount of track speed, with a long enough track for flotation combined with lots of HP to keep the track spinning quick enough to grab enough snow fast enough to keep moving

[broken_line]

so if i understand that right i will keep the motor in its safe operating range but get more torque and less speed at the track?

[Macgyver55]

Correct, less teeth on the upper gear and/or more on the lower gear will accomplish that.

Similar concept as changing gears on a multi-speed bicycle. Small gear on the front and big on the rear and you can climb a steep incline pedaling fast, big gear on the front and small in the rear you can go much faster on the flat while pedaling slower.

[Meat-Run]

COOl stuff you explained there McGyver....

mr