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When it comes to Tip-Ups.


Agronomist_at_IA

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qs2.jpg

These are the type of quickstrike rigs that I would tie directly to my tip up line.

I think that I'm missing some fish bites due to the line being so noticeable.

Question is, do you just put a mono leader from the tip up line to the quick strike? Or do you make the quick strike rig out of mono?

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If you use 50 lb stranded wire, which means you don't need collars and other hardware, they're really not more noticeable than heavy fluorocarbon. The stranded wire is quite thin, and pike are not too picky about those things. The black plastic coated wire quick-strike rigs, with the thick wire and collars, are QS rigs to avoid, IMO.

When I tied my own QS rigs, they were as the one pictured above except that I didn't bother with the adjustable shrink wrapping. All the deadbait I use only varies an inch or so in length, so I just tied each treble directly with the wire. Easiest way is to tie the top treble first, leaving about 6 inches of tag end, then tie the second treble. My trebles all ended up about 5 inches apart, which is about right for baits 5 to 8 inches.

Also, I used a much smaller spinner than the one pictured. You can find really small metal ones at most tackle outlets in the Northland (or similar) bulk jig/plastics bins.

After years of making my own QS rigs and then my own single treble rigs for pike, last year I started using a single circle hook tied up with stranded wire quite a bit. Worked absolutely great, though it takes a bit of adjustment mentality wise on how to not set the hook when the fish has the bait, but just let it tighten down slowly.

This season I've switched over completely to circle hooks. Well, if this season ever GETS HERE!!! gringrin

full-635-14202-circlehookpikerig.jpg

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Two years ago, I went to single hooks, and let me tell you why.

Three winters ago, I spent a ton of time on the ice watching my minnows on camera, mostly out of boredom but for scientific reasons as well. I wanted to know what's going on under my feet.

What I discovered is the northern pike tend to antagonize the minnow long before the flag goes off. The pike will suck the minnows in and spit them out, I've seen pike do this as often as 5 times per strike. The pike also will swim up next to the minnow and "slime" the minnow. I assume this close contact was to mark it for a later find. Pike will also consume the minnow and lay with the minnow in it's mouth long before the flag goes up. Often times, it's with such finesse that the fish will actually swim upward towards the ice; indicating that when the flag goes up, the fish is swimming with the minnow already consumed. Very seldom did I see the grand slam, where the northern pike came out of nowhere and grab the minnow.

Lastly, I noticed perch will also attack a shiner, even a large shiner. I've seen 3-5 perch hit one minnow, eating around the treble hook.

I switched to Castalia Outdoors Liquid Steel Leader and Rider Hook system. For Wisconsin, I don't need beads and blades on my multi hook rigs, so the picture attached if my Wisconsin rig. I do have a couple made for MN but no pix available.

CastaliaQuickstrikeRig.jpg

What I like about this hook, is it allows me to use the larger hook for my shiners and suckers, the much smaller hook I put crappie minnows or waxies on.

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Not sure but I believe in MN you have to have some kind of blade/spinner/body(jigging rap) when you use a treble hook? I know the picture is just the generic type, but it states it's optional.

I know you're from IA, Agronomist,so maybe(probably)you guys don't have that reg.

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somewhat to what i have [of course i have to use a small blade and i put a couple of beeds as well. i have attached the single hooks to the body with rubber bands so they swim more natural and i put one on the side of the head and one on the other side near the middle. good luck.

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DSCF1700.jpg

Here's the Single Hook version.

I used to tie those as well, when I could find the hooks, although I ran two hooks per rig. For a QS rig, they were my favorite. And since it's always deadbait for pike for me, they were really excellent. One hook in the head, one toward the tail. I switched over to small trebles on my QS rigs because I could no longer find those double hooks, and then abandoned QS altogether in my continued quest for simplification (as long as it doesn't cost me/us fish).

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Hey Steve, when you ran this rig as a two hook Quick Strike Rig, did you attach beads and blades?

I've showed this to a couple differant law enforcement officers. One told me yes, I need beads or blades; the other told me since he considers this a single hook he wouldn't put beads or blades on it.

Office discretion is a fickle lover..

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The way the law reads (and all the COs I've asked this question to agree), the double hook is considered a lure, even if it's the only one on there, because there's more than one hook, so I'd have run the bead and spinner even with only one double hook on. And I always ran a bead and spinner when I used two of them on the rig.

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Thanks for the feed back! I have a rule that I use beads and blades in MN just to eliminate the shadow of doubt.

Truth be told, I honestly don't see a difference in activity by having beads and blades vs not. Just a pain in the arse to rig up wink

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I am a blue glow demon (the big ones) junkie when it comes to pike. One weighted hook (the demon) with a larger split shot above about 2ft. This keeps the shiner from swimming away from the strike of the fish. 15ft of 10lb mono followed by the backing. The reason for the long length of leader is the stretch factor. It adds shock absorption while battling a fish. If you're fishing shallow then you are not after big pike. Set at 18-27ft this rig will catch pike left and right. The guy next to you using the braid/Quick Strike/heavy gear could go all day with only a flag or two. I would rather have ten flags than one.

Do I lose fish? Yes. A few over the years, but maybe the circle hook and a shiner are the way to go this year. It all comes down to the fact that I would rather see flags and take my chances or not see flags and have no chance at all.

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Circle hooks set differently than other hooks. When a baited circle hook is engulfed in a predator fish's mouth, and that fish begins to swim away, if you slowly tighten up the line, the point of the hook should catch in the corner of the fish's mouth. Tightening up hard (NOT "setting" with a jerk, but applying constantly increasing pressure) will get the hook to pierce past the barb, and you're ready to rock and roll.

The idea with a circle hook is that you can let a fish take a little time with a bait, but avoid deep-hooking in the gill areas.

There are places (saltwater) where circle hooks are required by law when fishing with bait because of the benefits to C&R and decreased mortality rates.

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Probably a dumb question but what's the advantage to the circle hook? You guys got me all excited to shed the single trebles but I'd love to know why haha thx

CIRCLE

Perhaps the best innovation in hooks to come along, circle hooks promote healthy catch and release. The design of the hook itself, when used properly, prevents fish from being hooked in the gut. Many anglers have a problem using these hooks because they require no hook set. If you do try to set the hook, it will generally come out of the mouth of the fish. These hooks are designed to move to the corner of the fish’s mouth and set themselves as the fish swims away from you. Anglers feel a bite and simply begin reeling, slowly at first, then faster as the hook gets set.

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Bass- no offense, but think you should change spots? If you aren't catching anything on your tip ups, look under water with a camera and see what's going on. Are you smack dab in a weed bed and the fish can't get to your bait because youre in too thick of cover? Are you on a sand flat that's iced in?

How well do you know your water?

The kind of fishery has a lot to do with your catching. If there is a low pike population and a high shiner population, youre bait isn't going to be appealing.

Once you've mastered the first few questions, then focus on your presentation. Are your hands clean when you handle your bait? Fish can taste oil, fast food, or cigarettes on the bait you handle. Also, I'd recommend putting a smaller hook. Sizing down will often bring a hook set on a finicky fish.

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pike are not as fussy as walley and trout usualy [except in clear lakes i have found they can be]. for pike i tie on florocarbon line to a quick strike rig made with florocarbon. for walleys and trout i use about a 3 foot 10 pound test mono line with a red hook tied to it with a couple of split shots. same for trout.

another thing i do is if i fish a body of water that i knew had some weeds in the area, i put my camera under the ice after setting my bait to see if the bait is above the weeds. for pike i fish shallower water [ less than 15 feet usualy or much shallower] i usualy put my bait half way down at the depth i'm fishing for pike [10 feet, i put it at 5]. for walleys i usualy have it 1 to 2 feet off the bottom. personaly, i'm not a fan of metal type leaders, however the thin wire type can be good for pike. i hope this helps a little, seems to work for me. good luck.

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