New FIsh Finder Installation

[amateurfishing]

So i got my new 597 ci, reading installation instructions, it comes with a 6 ft power cord, thats it!! so i guess i have to go out & buy 18 gauge wire

anyway, has anyone EVER connected a new fish finder to the wiring of the old one for power purposes? Im sure i can wire & rig the transducer but this 6 ft power cord is not only absurd, but does not come with anything to attach to battery or inline fuse, would it be ok to disconnect everything from battery then just cut the power ends off my old finsh finder and splice the new power cord into the old finder power cord since it is already connected to battery? is this ok? or would there be a voltage or other concern using new console & older 80's wiring?

[Nick Kuhn]

My guess it they are built for boats that have a fuse panel near the console like mine. You could do that, but it might just be a good time to swap it all out. Tongues and such for making the connection aren't expensive at all. The toughest part is finding the crimping tool (mine is more elusive than a TV remote).

[1johnb]

I strongly recomend solder and heat shrink tubing for any connection that is permanent. If you want to disconnect some place between power and your unit I would used a weatherpak " sealed connector " suchas used by truck and auto makers on oem wiring. Keeping out moisture is important for good connectivity.

[Kyhl]

The short answer, there is nothing wrong with cutting the old wiring and splicing in the new power lead. Just make sure to use the included inline fuse. Assuming Bird includes the inline fuse and assembly.

A better answer is to run new wire and new soldered connections that are sealed. They will last longer but I've never soldered. I just use crimp connects.

12 volt is 12 volt, plus or minus a couple. There is no voltage issue. Just make sure to fuse it with the recommended fuse.

[amateurfishing]

already done, easy job this am once i stopped thinking & just did it. i just bought new wiring, made it lots easier. also had left over heat shrink & crimp connectors from new trailer light project this spring which i used

[Down Deep]

2 more cents added to this thread. Just a comment on installation of electronic devices in general. The in-line fuse should be as close to the unit a feasible. That way you don't have to redo the entire line if the unit shorts out. I always install an inexpensive fuse block. Also, any installation guide I ever read recommends that the unit be disconnected from the battery when it is being charged so I always rig a toggle switch so I can shut down the power cable during charging. The boat takes a good pounding when on the trailer and water so cinch down all wiring as tight as possible using properly sized wire clamps and screws. I always use wire loom for any wires I snake through compartments and under the floor to prevent breaking due to wear and tear.

[amateurfishing]

well easily falling in love with this new 597 ci HB, an awesome finder to grow into, have used it twice, learning more all the time, and hopefully my boys will be on fish with me this fall

[bobbymalone]

The in-line fuse should be as close to the unit a feasible. That way you don't have to redo the entire line if the unit shorts out.

A little late for a reply but,

I always thought you wanted to run the fuse as close to the battery as possible. That way you only have a bit of wire that isn't protected and everything past the fuse including your unit is protected.

You shouldn't need to redo the entire line if the fuse blows, because the fuse should blow before the wires melt. That's kinda the whole purpose, yes? And if the insulation goes bad and it shorts you have to replace that wire whether it's before or after the fuse anyway.

Putting the fuse next to the unit leaves a whole lot of wire on the way to the unit that can short out and potentially start a fire.