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14 foot remodel


TyGuy02

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ok, so here's the rundown. I was gungho to upgrade in boats this spring but after long discussions with my wife we've came to the conclusion we need to keep my 14 foot lund with bench seats for another few years and save $$$ for the upgrade.

Currently I am bare bones to say the least! 3 benches, 1 with swivel seat (other broken and needs to be fixed anyways), transom trolling motor, depth finder, and that is it. What can I do? I've fancied the idea of mounting the trolling motor on the bow. Mainly for the reason of balancing weight. When I would fish alone (2/3 of the time), me sitting in the back would almost lift the bow out of the water (not quiet but it felt like that when the wind would push the bow) and I had fun even backtrolling. So that is a goal.

Next goal/idea is related to storage. It always seemed like I was messing around with where the gas tank/battery/anchor/extra rod(s)/tackle boxes/cooler was sitting. Knowing that I can't do much with the rear cube I call it (between transom and rear bench), would I be able to mount a storage space on one or both sides of the boat? It would leave a narrow walking/standing in the middle, but is it feasible? I'm even picturing a radio and speakers mounted in (just enough to hear the Twins on a Sunday afternoon).

Just some ideas. I've never heard of anybody doing this since most will just buy a larger boat, but that's not do-able right now. Thanks!

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There's certainly alot you can do with it without spending a ton of money. Here's some pics of my 14 foot. While I'd like to put a floor in remove the bench's and do some other stuff by the time I get the material and get it the way I want it including what I paid for the boat I'd be money ahead to sell my boat and by another boat that is already completed. I still have to get and install a bilge bump for rain water but other than that I think I've done about everything I can do other than a complete redo. As far as battery storage I mounted mine in the middle seat as seen in the pic below. Since these pics I've also addes some rod holders made of pvc and a holder for my net which are mounted on the middle seat (the poles and net sit straight up and down) I can get pics if needed. I also made a little shelf which is mounted next to my seat to hold lures,pliers and other misc stuff I use while fishing I also put some magnets on it so hold stuff which really works well. I also added two cheap can/bottle holders and a shelf to hold my radio and stuff. I added some $10 LED lights from Wallyworld that really light up the boat at night for night fishing. I bought some rubber mats from Menards to put on the floor that cost $2 a piece they deaden the noise nicely and have holes so if it's raining the water stays under them and there easy to clean if they get dirty. I also put in a trickle charger from harbor freight to charge my battery when not in use. Just my .02 happy to help if you need advise shoot me a PM.

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Thank for the advice so far. I'm heading into this head first this afternoon. All I need to do is get it out from storage underneath the deck with a little snow and ice blocking the way. I didn't worry about it this winter just being a little "duck-boat", but following this I'll need to take much better care of it.

I found a thread on a forum that shows picture by picture what a guy did to update his, only difference was that mine is a tiller, he already has lights (I need to install some), and in his renovation he totally toke out the benches (which I plan on doing). I'll take some pictures and I'll ask questions on here when I hit a stumbling block.

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Here is what I can offer. Don't add too much weight. Wood is heavy. If you can, use aluminum - yeah, I know, it is expensive. But you don't need to buy it at hardware store. You can find it free all over. Shower door frames, old cubicle frames, anything like that. I have some old shower frame that has angles and very strong and MUCH lighter than wood, and will never rot. Fastent it with drilling and rivets, or bolts work but rivets are easier, and cheap.

edit: I Don't mean use NO wood, just to try to avoid the wood framing. You will still need plywood to box in stuff, but that can be thin with good alum framing. If you are just doing a couple small things then woods works. If you do use wood consider cedar, as it is resistant to rot and lighter than pine, etc.

Run plastic tube (I use the blue tube that is corregated and can bend that I think I got at Save Big Bucks...) and put a string in first, so all you need to do it pull wire with the string. Goes fast and works every time. I always pull another string through with the wire/xducer cable, whatever, so it is always there waiting.

I am fan of vinyl over carpet - lighter, drains better, easier to clean, and dries faster. But that is just me smile

Put in good bilge pump, ideally automatic. And try to find some way to keep rods safe. In a 14' boat hard to find that place, but I turned into a fan of rocket launcher type rod holder for when fishing, and velcro straps for when running or trailering.

It is a fun project, take lots of pics and ask lots of questions. Folks here are very helpful and have great suggestions. Good luck!

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Heres what i did with my 14 footer last year.

front deck sits on the bench and an angle bracket in the very front of the boat, under the seat is storage in front of the bench and the battery box is in the bench.

feb11001.jpg

rear deck sits on the rear bench and goes back to angles riveted to the transom. port side is boxed in with aluminum sheet for storage and the gas tank sits underneath the starboard side.

Speakers for the stereo ar cut into the front of the rear bench.

feb11002.jpg

and the radio/switch/accessory plug housing that sits on the rear bench. may not be feasible for those that dont work at a sheetmetal shop but maybe it will give you some ideas

DSC03058-1.jpg

to get the wires from the battery in front to the stuff in back i fished them thru the gunnel. i had to take a few screws out temporarily to keep the wires from getting snagged but it turned out great, plus i didnt want to be tripping on wires laying in the bottom of the boat.

a couple things that i would change would be to have the middle seat easily removeable so it would be easier to get around when it is just one or two guys in the boat, and having a place to put rods.

Lots of other good mod threads on here also

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I removed the benches and styrofoam. Here's where I'm at right now. What I'm imagining is to enclose the transom bench area for the gas tank and other storage. Leave the gap between the back bench and 2nd bench open for sitting while using the outboard. Next would be to enclose the rest forward. putting in new styrofoam in the old places, and having cooler/other storage in-between the 2nd and 3rd bench, and battery/anchor storage between the 3rd bench and bow. Using some of the advice from others, I'll probably need support down the center of the hull in the front half, I think some aluminum braces would go well there. Both to add support to the floor and to separate the storage areas.

I plan on keeping the floor at the same level as the current benches. Both to avoid construction issues and to keep weight down. I'm going to take it in to the self-serve car wash tommorow to clean it up as good as I can. I did find a thread where the guy stripped all the paint, checked for leaks, repainted, ect. It hasn't had leaks yet...so I'm hoping that bypassing that step is possible. And the fact that the color doesn't bother me (adds character maybe).

I know vinyl was mentioned, I think I would prefer the foot stability of outdoor carpet.

My next question(s) is this. I want good raised seats. Can I just bolt in regular mounts and have detachable poles? It just seems to me that there would be a ton of weight being pushed in all directions and I would imagine it would need some kind of strong bracing? Second question is with the bow. I want a large area to mount the trolling motor and I'm thinking of putting the radio up there as well. How would I support that without drilling any holes to the hull. Or is that just not possible?

For rod storage I like the tube idea and using velcro. I know this is a long post but it's where I'm at right now. I'm motivated to get this done before opener! Thanks!

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I don't know if it's been mentioned yet, but did you keep that foam that you removed from the benches?

My advice would be to hold on to that foam and try to put in under the new flooring anywhere you are not going to have storage. It is put in there for flotation purposes should you ever capsize. It will also help to deaden sound in the floor a bit.

If you are going to put the floor at the same level at the bottom (or top?) of the benches, I would try to keep part of the bench there to use for your plywood supports. You won't need as many wood stringers this way cutting down on weight and perhaps keeping some of the side to side stability of the boat.

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Here is what I did with my old 1970 lund 14, it think it was the s model - deep and wide. My brother in law now owns it and loves it. Got a lot of compliments out on the lake from a lot of people. Removed middle bench, didnt reuse the middle foam. (no probs at all). Used the existing bench mounts on the sides to install the side peices, front casting deck and rear bench area. Worked out great. Put a bow mount on front. Used all AC plywood and sealed it with exterior paint I think. Should have used spar varnish though. Turned out great, and put a lot of hrs in this boat. full-30864-7516-14lundremodel.jpg

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I did this to my 14ft before I sold it to a fellow HSO'er. If I were to do it all over again, I would do as Lightning said- alum. angle and vinyl over carpet (too many hooks stuck in the carpet, and tougher cleaning). Here is a pic of the final layout I came up with.

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Well, I know it's been awhile, but I'm almost done. I will post a pic tomorrow (I need to clean up the clay from a muddy wet road I had to drive down yesterday when I was trying it out yesterday).

I ended up putting a floor in. Used 3/4" plywood and 2x2 peg legs. It super tight between the benches so the pegs are just support to the middle part.

Put a raised floor/deck at the bow and transom, at the bench level.

Boxed in the bow and installed my new minkota powerdrive 55 w/ipilot.

Installed bow and stern lights as well as running rope lights, all with switches. (I'm not good with wiring and got help from family but it was an adventure).

Put on trailer bunk rollers, NICE!

New seats and carpeting all over.

Issues I had: I had installed a super nice pedistal seat at the bow, but after my test-run yesterday I realized that it will be more of a pain. My boat is so narrow in front that it was quiet dangerous getting around the seat. Came to the conclusion that I will be standing or sitting on the bow most of the time and taking the seat out. I also realized that trying to fit a bench back to where it used to be is NOT very easy once you add carpeting/added 3/4" plywood under seat for added support and 2" carrage bolts.

Overall I'm super pumped and can't wait to get it cleaned up for some pictures

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This is the boat I purchased from fishinfey to use on the local river back home. It is probably the roomiest 14 foot boat I have been in. He did a great job with the remodel. All I have done since purchasing the boat is upgraded the motor, and added a different trailer. I think that removing the middle bench is a great idea in some of these smaller boats. I run a 1999 Mercury 15hp shortshaft on the river...generally with another person, 4 or 5 rods and gear, an anchor, and about 3-5 gallons of fuel and can hit around 17mph going against the current. Alone I can push 20mph, which is the fastest I would want to go on the river with all of the obstacles. Distribution of weight is key in these smaller boats when doing remodels as others have stated. I usually travel with my cooler and gear in the open area between benches, and have the anchor up at the front of the boat and have never had any issues alone or with a friend. I also purchased a small vexilar battery to run the graph off of for when I am not using the transom mount trolling motor. That saved me quite a bit of weight, and has left room in the battery box for things like an extra plug, towels, and tools.

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If you notice the non-matching carpet, I had underestimated how much carpet to get and could not wait on getting the exact match. My issue with the 2nd carpet was that it did not have a rubber backing, so when I stepped on it and it was still wet, it seeped through.

I have to paint yet, but that'll be once it gets warmer.

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