Front Platform on 14fter

[DTro]

Looking for ideas to create a platform in the front of my 14fter. I have a floor in it already from the back up to the front seat. I was thinking I'd like to make a platform that runs from the front seat to the front of the boat to make it not only easier to get in and out, but then I can have a little dry storage underneath. I hesitate to call it a casting deck because it really won't be as I mostly anchor fish.

So obviously I'll be able to use the front seat as a support in the back and run a sheet of plywood to the front using a template to fit it, but what can i use for a support up front? Maybe rivet in some supports along the edge? I imagine I need some sort of vertical supports as well.

I guess I'm not sure...

[jwmiller33]

Do you have a bench in the very nose of your boat? Here is a pic of what I did with mine

[DTro]

No, I don't have that front nose piece, that is my dilemma.

[jwmiller33]

I thought about riveting in some aluminum angle as additional support on a different part of my boat before. Just the thought of putting rivets in near the water line deterred me away. But if you were careful enough and did it right, aluminum angle would be the way to go as it would be very strong (exactly what you need for the support for the platform). If you could rivet in 2 pieces of aluminum angle about 12 inches long on each side of the boat, you could fabricate your own nose bench. My nose bench is essentially made out of very skinny alum angle, so it is basically the same thing. If you feel comfortable riveting into the side of the boat, that is what I would do.

[aanderud]

I would think that you'd be able to fabricate a nose piece just like what was shown above, but instead of tying it to the side of the boat, run some vertical supports DOWN and angled in (one from each end, meeting in a V in the middle at the bottom of the boat below the nose piece). Then, to keep that sucker actually VERTICAL, run three horizontal supports -- one at each end along the TOP from the nose piece to the first seat, upon which you'd mount your plywood platform, and a third along the bottom where the boat makes a V, back to the first seat from the nose-piece-base-V. This might be somewhat of a PITA because it could split your front storage into two...but it should work without any drilling or riveting in your hull.

[delmuts]

I agree with rud. You can make something that sits in there and not have to fasten it. I did this last year, as i wanted a back casting deck in my little Ranger. After a bunch of measuring; then thinking what you want and how it should fit. Then go to work!

I built mine out of 2X2's with 3/4 ply for the top. Covered it with carpet, and added a pedestal base for a seat. Works well and very solid, but can be taken out if i need to get at things. ( the dealer thought i was great when they replaced the bilge pump last year!! )

[Surface Tension]

Use aluminum angle and or stock and break the angles and brackets. Put a bracket in the bow and 6" sections of angle every 16" along the hull. Pop rivets won't last long, use stainless steel panhead machine bolts and nuts to fasten the angles and brackets to the hull.

For the horizontal framing/supports I'd again use aluminum. You can break channel for those in aluminum or buy tubing.

You'll need one angle along bench seat for the tubing to sit on. Mount that so the tubing is flush with the top of the seat.

The bracket in front will be the same height and the tubing will sit on that. Two sections will be plenty for support from bow to seat.

You have the angles along the hull as support as well.

In between those sections will be your access door to storage. Figure out the door size and then frame that with a short section of tubing at each end of the opening. You'll have to transfer a line to the hull that is the same height as the bench seat and bow and framing. Being there is a radius it isn't all that straight forward but there are a few ways to do that.

Whatever you do use the same reference point to establish that line. The idea there is you don't want to multiply errors by using more then one reference point. A flexible ruler between the bench and bow bracket could work there as long as it doesn't twist.

A laser level at the center point of the bench will work too. You'll attach the angles at the line along the hull to support the edges of the plywood. Use the stainless steel panhead bolts to fasten them.

To get the measurement of the plywood find the center of the bench seat and mark it. Attach a string at the bow in the center and bring that back to your center line on the seat. Put reference marks on the string and take measurements at 90 degrees to the hull. The more reference marks you have on the string means less filling in the line when you transfer that to the plywood. In tighter bends you should have more marks and of coarse keep them at true at 90 degrees to the line.

When you cut out the plywood back cut it so it follows the slope of the hull. Remember to extend the plywood over the bench so the vertical plywood on the front of the seat fits under it.

Today's treated lumber is less corrosive and that is what I'd use. Beside your carpet will be wrapped to the underside of the plywood and stapled so it won't be in contact with any aluminum. Since you used aluminum to keep the weight down you don't need a deck that soaks up water either.

Best solution there is debatable but multiple coats intended for treated wood is better then nothing. Top that off with a waterproof carpet adhesive.

[DTro]

Thanks Frank, I think I follow that.

Let me ask this. What if I ran angle brackets along the inside of the hull like you said with pan head bolts and nuts and then used 3/4 plywood or fiber board that sat on the front bench and ran to the nose of the V without any other horizontal or vertical supports, and then just install one of these:

Is that span too large to support up to 250lbs? I'm not terribly concerned about the added weight. The boat almost is too fast already.

[chris63]

When drilling through the hull I would use high quality solid (bucked) aluminum rivets to fill the holes when replacing or repairing aluminum hull boats.Stainless hardware will work but a bucked rivet is the best choice for tensile and torsion strength.(Bucked rivets fill the drilled hole completely)c63

[Surface Tension]

Darren, You'll regret not adding horizontal floor support. Without it the plywood is going to sag under its own weight and flex under yours. If the aluminum work is scaring you off then use wood. If you do use 2x then lay a barrier on top of it to keep them dry. Window wrap/flashing or ice & water shield works well there. The lid you have there will work fine but you should have it framed in.

For sure you need the angles on the hull.

Chris I agree about the solid aluminum rivets especially when filling holes below the water line.

Having bucked thousands(aircraft) I know that there is a learning curve there so that is why I recommend the SS fasteners.

[chris63]

Agreed,as far as stresses seen in boat hull vs. aviation (wing skins,spars,fuselage) I think stainless hardware will do the job just fine!c63