Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Auger Blades Sharpening


AsianSensation89

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Just curious but has anyone tried using the LAZER Auger Blade Sharpener that Strikemaster makes? Supposedly you can just buy that and sharpen your own auger blades when they are dull. However, I don't want to lose 10 dollars and find out it doesn't work, especially since I hear you have to sharpen your blades at the right angle. I've got some old blades from my MORA 6" Auger that I had to replace this season with only one of the blades being dull. Didn't want to exchange them for new blades so I figured I'd keep the old set, buy a new set... and try to fix my old blades so I will have a spare if ever needed. Any tips or advice?

***On another note, if I have the old blades installed, it seems it have a harder time pinpointing/starting my hole as the auger will tend to "slip." Seems like only one blade is cutting though, so that's why I have a feeling maybe one of them is dull. Thanks!

This is how it looks like:

51N%2BZHnWdeL.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got some old blades from my MORA 6" Auger that I had to replace this season with only one of the blades being dull. Didn't want to exchange them for new blades so I figured I'd keep the old set, buy a new set... and try to fix my old blades so I will have a spare if ever needed. Any tips or advice?

AS89 - I've asked about sharpening blades a number of times now at D-Rock. They sell the sharpeners, so I asked them about them. They said they might work in a pinch for a few holes, but new blades IS the way to go.

Also, the used blades they take in on exchanges aren't actually sharpened and re-sold, they are recycled. The blade exchange essentially is new blades without the deluxe packaging.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you look close there is one cutting edge with that sharpener. The other edge is like a guide.

Make sure the cutting edge is cutting the bevel of the blade an not the flat side.

In a pinch they might work but fall way short of new or resharpened blades.

Those really aren't intended for a Mora blade.

Your better off taking the Mora blades off and sharpening them on a perfectly flat surface with 1000 grit paper adhered to the flat surface. Mora has a fairly wide edges that you can hold flat. If you can see a burr do that side first till the burr is gone. Do not rock the blade when you make your strokes. Each side gets equal amounts taken off. If you have a nick in the blade just forget it because you'll be taking a lot of material off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not a bad idea to have one on hand, but as stated, new blades are the way to go.

On the blade exchange, why would they take the old ones in if they weren't doing something with them? Is it due to the metal's value for recycling? I find it hard to believe that someone somewhere couldn't put a decent edge back on them with the right equipment. The swedes can do it, and the chinese suppliers can do it (although not as well, but acceptably). With the lazer blades, it is a tricky one to do with a radius on the edge and a curve on the flat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the blade exchange, why would they take the old ones in if they weren't doing something with them?

That's why I keep asking every-time I get some new blades; I'm still a little confused too - anyhow it's the same price whether you give them old blades or not... It's a good service, taking them off your hands. They look to valuable to toss and probably a hazard to recycle at home.

I'm probably going to ask again next year.. LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i sharpen ice auger blades , but have yet to figure out how to do strikemater blades. i think that they have figured out a way that a guy can't sharpen them, with the angles they have on them. they make you get new ones

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've thought about possibly mix-n-matching the blades with the old and new. Keep one new blade on while with the other blade alternating it with the old blades to see which blade is actually dull. Then from there I will attempt to resharpen the dull one. Been hard to do though since I'd have to be on the ice to do that. Also seems time consuming... and when I am on the ice I'd rather be fishing. lol

My auger was actually slipping more than usual before I bought the new blades. I think I somehow must have gotten one of the blade's angle right when I attempted to resharpen them so only one of them shaves the ice. Frustrating topic...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what I was told from the guys at strikemaster is that when they take your old blades they just recycle them. they said the blade exchange blades are new blades and have not been resharpened. the reason they offer them at a lower price over the "new blades" is because they are charging you for the new plastic pack the "new blades" come in when you by them. the blade exchange blades are just put in a padded envelope and not the plastic clam pack. the blades can be resharpened but they won't last as long as a new set.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the blade exchange is through Strikemaster then they have no need to sharpen them.

There are blade exchanges by individuals. Like what you might find at a bait shop where a guy will have a drop off site there.

He picks them up and drops some off.

Some do as I do. What you send it what your getting back. I sharpen and send blades back the same day I get them though.

You can grind the flat side of a flat blade to true it back up but you don't do that on a blade with a radius.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
    • Sketti...  not out of a jar either!
    • Lol yeah I watched that
    • I went ahead and watched some of the MLF coverage.  Wheeler didn’t make the cut but the bigger story was the Poche/Avera fallout.   Kinda funny listening to both sides of the story and putting together the scenario, reading between the lines.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.