Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Auger Blades Sharpening


AsianSensation89

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Just curious but has anyone tried using the LAZER Auger Blade Sharpener that Strikemaster makes? Supposedly you can just buy that and sharpen your own auger blades when they are dull. However, I don't want to lose 10 dollars and find out it doesn't work, especially since I hear you have to sharpen your blades at the right angle. I've got some old blades from my MORA 6" Auger that I had to replace this season with only one of the blades being dull. Didn't want to exchange them for new blades so I figured I'd keep the old set, buy a new set... and try to fix my old blades so I will have a spare if ever needed. Any tips or advice?

***On another note, if I have the old blades installed, it seems it have a harder time pinpointing/starting my hole as the auger will tend to "slip." Seems like only one blade is cutting though, so that's why I have a feeling maybe one of them is dull. Thanks!

This is how it looks like:

51N%2BZHnWdeL.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got some old blades from my MORA 6" Auger that I had to replace this season with only one of the blades being dull. Didn't want to exchange them for new blades so I figured I'd keep the old set, buy a new set... and try to fix my old blades so I will have a spare if ever needed. Any tips or advice?

AS89 - I've asked about sharpening blades a number of times now at D-Rock. They sell the sharpeners, so I asked them about them. They said they might work in a pinch for a few holes, but new blades IS the way to go.

Also, the used blades they take in on exchanges aren't actually sharpened and re-sold, they are recycled. The blade exchange essentially is new blades without the deluxe packaging.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you look close there is one cutting edge with that sharpener. The other edge is like a guide.

Make sure the cutting edge is cutting the bevel of the blade an not the flat side.

In a pinch they might work but fall way short of new or resharpened blades.

Those really aren't intended for a Mora blade.

Your better off taking the Mora blades off and sharpening them on a perfectly flat surface with 1000 grit paper adhered to the flat surface. Mora has a fairly wide edges that you can hold flat. If you can see a burr do that side first till the burr is gone. Do not rock the blade when you make your strokes. Each side gets equal amounts taken off. If you have a nick in the blade just forget it because you'll be taking a lot of material off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not a bad idea to have one on hand, but as stated, new blades are the way to go.

On the blade exchange, why would they take the old ones in if they weren't doing something with them? Is it due to the metal's value for recycling? I find it hard to believe that someone somewhere couldn't put a decent edge back on them with the right equipment. The swedes can do it, and the chinese suppliers can do it (although not as well, but acceptably). With the lazer blades, it is a tricky one to do with a radius on the edge and a curve on the flat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the blade exchange, why would they take the old ones in if they weren't doing something with them?

That's why I keep asking every-time I get some new blades; I'm still a little confused too - anyhow it's the same price whether you give them old blades or not... It's a good service, taking them off your hands. They look to valuable to toss and probably a hazard to recycle at home.

I'm probably going to ask again next year.. LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i sharpen ice auger blades , but have yet to figure out how to do strikemater blades. i think that they have figured out a way that a guy can't sharpen them, with the angles they have on them. they make you get new ones

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've thought about possibly mix-n-matching the blades with the old and new. Keep one new blade on while with the other blade alternating it with the old blades to see which blade is actually dull. Then from there I will attempt to resharpen the dull one. Been hard to do though since I'd have to be on the ice to do that. Also seems time consuming... and when I am on the ice I'd rather be fishing. lol

My auger was actually slipping more than usual before I bought the new blades. I think I somehow must have gotten one of the blade's angle right when I attempted to resharpen them so only one of them shaves the ice. Frustrating topic...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what I was told from the guys at strikemaster is that when they take your old blades they just recycle them. they said the blade exchange blades are new blades and have not been resharpened. the reason they offer them at a lower price over the "new blades" is because they are charging you for the new plastic pack the "new blades" come in when you by them. the blade exchange blades are just put in a padded envelope and not the plastic clam pack. the blades can be resharpened but they won't last as long as a new set.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the blade exchange is through Strikemaster then they have no need to sharpen them.

There are blade exchanges by individuals. Like what you might find at a bait shop where a guy will have a drop off site there.

He picks them up and drops some off.

Some do as I do. What you send it what your getting back. I sharpen and send blades back the same day I get them though.

You can grind the flat side of a flat blade to true it back up but you don't do that on a blade with a radius.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.