Attaching leadcore to backing.

[Luck e 1]

Do I have to pull a section of lead out of the leadcore before I attach it to my power pro backing?

Also...which knot works well?

Thanks.

[SpecialK]

Yes you will want to remove some of the lead before you tie to the backing. Not sure on the knot though.

[Deep_Sinker]

Remove about 6-8" of lead from the sheath and tie to the backing/leader with a double uni knot. A lot use the Willis knot but I have a tough time threading through the sheath. My double uni knot has stood the test of many ferocious king salmon.

[Ed Carlson]

The "Willis Knot Method".

Make a loop in the leadcore about 4 inches from the tag end.

Next step is slide back the outer sheath on your leadcore, approximately 3 inches. Cut the lead off, then slide the outer sheath back out till its snug.

Now insert your mono leader, so it seats up against with the lead inside the sheath, then work the knot down towards the tag end (keeping the mono butted up again the lead inside.)

Pull the knot tight, holding the Dacron on each side of the knot and snug it up tightly, holding the mono/leadcore to really cinch it down.

This "Willis Knot Method" looks like it would slip, but it doesn't.

As a test, I wrapped the mono lead around a chair and pulled. Couldn't break the knot but the 17 pound mono broke about a foot below the knot.

Hope this helps.

(Credits to Gord Schultz for this example and photo's)

Keith Kavajecz's leadcore to leader knot methods.

I use two knots. Quick and dirty is what I use when I am out on the boat, a hot bite is going on, and I want to get the line back in the water ASAP! Take the lead out of about 5 inches of the lead core line. Tie an overhand knot in the remaining dacron - this creates a bump in the line. Then take you leader (mono or FireLine) and tie an improved clinch knot (5 wraps for mono, 7 wraps for FireLine) above the bump. Loosely tighten the improved clinch. Slide it down to the bump (the bump will prevent it from sliding any further) and tighten up the whole system. Trim off any excess. Swivel splice. Take out 5 inches of lead from the leadcore. Tie a clinch knot (not improved clinch) to a #16 or #18 barrel swivel (yup get out the reading glasses as the Dacron is a little hard to get into that small swivel). Now you can tie FireLine or mono to the other side of the swivel - again using an improved clinch. The small swivel should slide through your rod eyelets and into the line guide of the reel if necessary.

(Credits to Keith Kavajecz for this example.)

A tip I'll add is when inserting 4/15 Power Pro or a similar very thin and limp superbraid line...it's tough to get it into the empty leadcore sheath.

So try this...before you proceed to the leader insertion.... lightly coat the last 6" of the 4/15 braid with Super Glue, and allow it to dry a minute...this will stiffen it up and make the insertion an easy task before you cinch the final Willis Knot.

[Luck e 1]

Wow...great example. I tried this and it works. I have to admit, I totally didn't trust it at first. But I tested it also and it held well.

[Sutty]

Willis is the way to go if you can feed the line in. Some lead core brands are easier to work with than others. I like to make a second knot a few inches above the first just because the jacket on the lead core will fray up to the knot but I don't think it will break or come untied if you don't