Help me design a Wheel House

[Duke82]

I am going to be putting together a wheel house this year which I am going to try to have ready by ice fishing. I originally was thinking 6.5 X 12 but now I am considering a 6.5 X 16. The only issue I can see with this is weight, how much more weight do you guys think a extra 4ft would add? I am haveing Miltona Blacksmith build my frame, after doing alot of research these guys seem to be good at a good price. My few questions to you guys are,

-Where is a good place to find a cheap door and windows?

-What type and how thick of rubber to use on the roof?

-How thick of sheet aluminum for the sideing?

-What tool works good for cutting aluminum sheets and dimond plate?

[jerkbait]

Make sure it is a V-front and if I were you I would go to 8' wide. If you are going to go to that length you would like the extra width.

[Cast A Way]

I concur -- 8 wide v-front forsure and at least 16 long.

Online or RV salvage places for doors and such. Rubber roof materials at the big lumber places - they also have reasonalbe thermo windows.

I had mine built 8 x 19 v-front on 5000# axles.

[Smoker]

I use a 6.5 x 16 V-front and it weighs in at 2740# on the scale. That is with no batteries or LP tanks or gear. All it has in it is a bunk in the back with stroage under it and a 2 burner stove and cabnits in the front.

[pulleye16]

My best advice when placing wholes is to put in your chairs first, sit in them, then find the optimal place for the wholes....my wholes are about 4-6 inches too close to the seats and its feels awkward while jigging. With your seats and wholes in thier place, find a good place for your heating so it doesn't get in the way...IMO

[Duke82]

I think I would really like the extra room of a 16ft, I think the weight might be to much of a issue though. I live on the mississippi on pool 4 and would like to use it on there also. But the river can be shady on its ice so its best to keep weight down. I was also considering going 8ft wide but after looking at alot of shacks that are, I just dont think what u gain vs weight, work and cost is worth it. I might be wrong I've never fished in one. Also how did you finish yours smoker to get that weight what siding,studs,roof insulation ect... I was going to try and stay around the 100lb's per foot.

[hawkeye43]

I built a house that 8.5 x 12 with a 40" v front. it has 9 holes and 2 bunks that fold up, cook stove and load it weights 3264. It has hydr. lift for the wheels and the hitch, about 20 seconds to lift ready to move. Never unhook from the truck or wheeler and goes home with me.

[Eelpout08]

i always figured that if you go 8ft wide then in back you have room for a closet at the end of your bunk/dinette. you can never have enough storage. i hate having everything piled on the bunks and floor then having to move it outside or to the truck when we set up. its nice to have a place to keep everything out of the way. as far as added weight from going 8ft wide it really wouldnt add that much untill you start putting all the extra stuff in that you now have room for

just my two cents

[Smoker]

It is a Miltona Blacksmith fram, it has steel siding and 2x3 studs for the walls and 2x4 roof. It is just insulated with bat insulation and it seems to heat easy. It also hae a rubber roof on it. It oly has a 3500#axle on it but mosy of my gear goes with me so I hall that in my truck.

[Duke82]

Thats sounds almost exactly what I am looking to build Smoker. What do u think of Miltona's frames, how long have u had it?

[Smoker]

I have only had it a year this fall. It is a well build frame, It pulls nice down the road also. The fram came primed so it does need painting and I went with a truck bed liner spray on type. It has been holding up real good.

[Duke82]

What was the brand of bed liner spray you used on the frame. Can u get it in arisal cans? I have seen it in gallons to paint on. Also what type of rubber and how thick did you use for the roof?

[Smoker]

I don't remember the name of the bed liner but it is sold in arisal cans. I got it from a auto paint store. I want to say it was Tuff Bed or something like that. The rubber roof I went to a roofer and they had a nice size that just fit so they sold it to me at a good price. They would of just used it for scrap strips any way.

[Duke82]

Alright after doing alot of thinking and researching around I have decided to go with a 6.5 X 14. I have drawn it up on a cad program and am wondering what inside height do u guys typicaly make them? I am trying to make it with as little material waste as possiable. If I run the sheets left to right and make my height 6ft 9 1/4 I can get away with 9 5X10 sheets. If I run them vertical I will need 10 but I can make any height I want. I originally wanted to use 4X8 sheets but they are more money than the 5X10 now in the .04 painted. I dont think I want to go thinner than that. Any ideas what way to hang them and how high should the inside height be?

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

I think you are fine with hanging them horizontally and 6'9" inside height. Kind of goes without saying, but make sure you overlap the top sheet over the bottom.

[Duke82]

Alright finally saved up enough money to get my wheel house on the way. I picked up the frame this weekend. Smoker I was gonna ask u if u painted the bare steel on the frame before u coated with the bed liner or did u just coat everything without primer too?

[dukhntr]

I am currently finishing an 8 x 16 with 4' V-front with tandem axles. I used flat steel siding on my house, and used a harbor freight electric shear (about $40.00) to cut it. I got all of my diamond plate cut and bent. Believe me, it is a lot easier and not much more $$ to have all of your diamond plate cut to size and bent to form at the place you get it. I got mine from Midwest Steel in Mpls, and they cut and formed all of the pieces. Great people to work with. Rubber roof came from Menards. Windows came from Home Depot. I got my doors (and frame) from Miltona. Great guy to deal with. I agree that you should sit in the house and see where the holes should go. Once you decide, look under the house and make sure there is no interference with crossmembers, axels etc. Also, with the v-fromt, you can put your furnace up there out of the way and keep the floor open. I also put a bathroom up there and have room for 2 four wheelers. Think a lot about your electrics, and where you want everything to go. What about TV / radio antennas? It is much easier to put an extra outlet in now than to have to do it later after the interior is finished. I put in 8 110 outlets, and 6 12 volt outlets. Probably overkill but... Think about one or 2 outside 110 volt outlets for radio etc. I also used a combo power distribution center and battery charger. Makes wiring easier.

Hope this helps!

dukhntr

[Duke82]

All right I've been moving along a little with the house. I wire brushed all the bare steel and coated it with rustreformer paint them I sanded the whole thing and herculinered it with 2 coats. I then layed 3/4in green treat for the floor. I put down a bead of PL Premium and used tek screws to fasen it down. I will hopefully pick up some 2x4s to rip down to 2x2 i tried to pick up 2x2s but there is just no way to find a straight 2x2 i found out. Is there anything you guys have done to sturdy up the 2x2 walls I was thinking about useing 2x4 pieces inbetween the studs on the floor and top everyother one to add more strength. I guess the whole 2x2 wall thing makes me a little nervious to be strong enough.

[Big Buck Buster]

Once you get the siding on, the walls will stiffen up. Putting 2x4 corners in helps also. Spray foam, and it will be rock solid.

[Duke82]

Is it important to use a thick interior siding. I was just planning on useing 1/4 notty pine paneling to keep it light. Or do I need to use something heavy duty to help the structure of the build?

[Big Buck Buster]

We used the 1/4" tongue and groove pine. Glued with PL and air nailed them in the grooves to make a more finished look. You couldn't see any of the nail holes. I wouldn't go any thicker than the 1/4", or you will be just adding not-needed weight.

[Eelpout08]

Make sure you pick the straightest 2x4s you can find, they will warp when you rip them, also try to only rip as many as you can get put together right away, if you leave them sit for a few days they will start to twist and bend.

For the interior i would just use the 1/4 in. tounge and groove and glue it to the studs with const. adhesive along with finish nails/brad nails. that along with the exterior sheathing will reall add some strenth.

[Duke82]

I was wondering what you thought about the type of 2x4s green treat or KD. Also was considering buying 2X6 and getting 3 out of one. What are your guys thoughts on that?

[mnbuckhunter]

My 2 cents - If you're going to rip down, I'd go with 2x4s. I would think there'd be less chance of warping. I'd for sure go KD. Green treated would get heavy and it's not necessary.

[Duke82]

Ok got some real nice premium KD 2X4s i split down to 2x2s, 90% split real nice the other 10% sprung when we split them. I was planning on putting 2 screws in the end of every 2x2, u guys think that is over kill or would help. Also i plan on glueing and screwing the siding on. What type of screw should I get for that? I know self tapers but should they have that rubber washer on them to seal also or no?