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Oil change on my 4Runner ?


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I have been reading the info on oil changes and for the most part I have always used regular oil. The 4Runner I bought used has synthetic oil and the party I bought it from has always changed it at 6000 miles so would you keep using synthetic or switch back to regular oil ?

It is a 2002 with 119,000 miles and they were very good about there maintenance to the point of almost being anal. They went so far as to use nitrogen in the tires. I plan to hand onto to it for a couple of years if that makes any difference.

Would you recommend a specific brand of oil filter ?

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There's no reason to use synthetic and service the vehicle every 6k when you could save a bunch of cash, use regular oil, and service at the factory recommended 5k. We see these on a regular basis with a couple hundred thousand miles on them with nothing more than regular maintenance.

Keep it lubricated and cool and it should last as long or longer than expected.

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Just my opinion, but I don’t think saving $150-200 over the life of the vehicle by switching to dino is worth any repercussions of what might happen by changing what has been working for the past 8 years.

I say keep on keeping on Jim. Nice vehicle by the way, we almost have twins.

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I am not going to argue with anyone who runs synthetic in any engine/motor that is "not" required to use synthetic or a synthetic blend by the manufacture. Good piece of mind and helps keep the drive alive looking for better alternatives to conventional oil.

With that said, if it was my vehicle and I planned on owning it for awhile, I would switch right over to conventional and a $5, maybe even a $7 filter. wink

Its up to you Jim. smile

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Switching is an urban myth!

When you start with a good engine it doesn't matter what you use. Conventional oil has been working for Toyota's that come in on a regular basis with over 250,000 miles. Why spend the extra money when you can get the same results for less.

We see all kinds of vehicles every day with well over a 100,000 miles on conventional oil and a bunch pushing or over the 200k mark.

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I should add my old Tacoma is pushing 200k. Conventional oil all its life. Serviced every 3-5k. Doesn't use a drop, leak a drop, or have and mechanical issues.

I did use a "quality" synthetic one winter. Didn't notice any difference and it started the same on the cold mornings.

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Thanks for all the input. I will more then likely switch over to dino just to save a few bucks as much as I would like to keep using synthetic.

My Solara is real close to 200,000 and that is with regular oil with a good maintenance schedule.

Are Wix a pretty good oil filter ?

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I guess Dtro made me think of something.

I buy conventional oil by the quart in multiple cases via a local vendor at a wholesale discount. It was a swap between Ashland Oil (Valvoline) & Quaker State. I used to pay about 3 years ago $0.80 or less a quart when buying over a certain amount of cases. In a pinch you could even run to Walmart and buy their Supertech oils for $0.99 a quart.

Today, those prices are distance memory unless you buy with a coupon and are limited to 6 quarts. Even Walmart's Supertech is $2.40+ a quart. eek

I checked out The Oilman's website and found 5-w30 100% syenthetic for $8.75 per quart. Amazingly that is about the same from when I used to buy Ams Oil in this weight for a car I owned that had a supercharger on it back in the late 90's.

Click Here!

If the price of conventional oil keeps creeping up and the price of synthetic stays, I will be switching myself. laugh

I have no clue on Mobil One because personally if I ever need synthetic oil(s) I have been taught (brainwashed, no joking grin) since high school and via respected guys I have worked with and know, Ams Oil is the only synthetic I will purchase. smile

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Sounds like a nice vehicle. Generally, there is a little higher cost of ownership with better quality cars and trucks. If you are concerned with saving a few pennies, maybe a Dodge or Chevy would have been a cheaper option. I'm assuming you have the 5vz-fe engine, which is bullet proof if taken care of properly. Why not spend a few extra bucks on good oil and filters to keep it tip-top? Good luck.

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We've never had an issue with Wix, NAPA, or Powerflow filters.

Speaking of filters....I have heard of issues with FRAM filters, at least in the diesel word. I personally wont buy them. Fleetguard for the Cummins.

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If you are concerned with saving a few pennies, maybe a Dodge or Chevy would have been a cheaper option.

So you can spend a couple thousand a year to keep it on the road?

The Toyota might have a higher up front but it sure is nice not to have to worry about all the that could go wrong if you owned something else! grin

The amount of money you spend has nothing to do with keeping it "tip top".

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So you can spend a couple thousand a year to keep it on the road?

The Toyota might have a higher up front but it sure is nice not to have to worry about all the that could go wrong if you owned something else! grin

The amount of money you spend has nothing to do with keeping it "tip top".

I was so impressed with my Solara and how little it cost to run. With around 198,000 miles it has cost cost me $100.00 for a pollution control device otherwise it is just normal maintenance.

Shack you make a great point on the cost of regular vs synthetic that I will have to take a look.

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Fram had a fallout in the mid 80's or so that left a lot of people with the short end of the stick. Personally I think they have recovered in there filter applications and I used them all the time in the early 90's with no problems.

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I can almost always do a oil/filter change for about $25 using Mobil 1 and whatever filter is on sale.

Let's say I do that 3 times a year. Ten years that's 30 changes.

The price of a regular Dino change is what? I don't even know. I'm guessing about $15

That's a savings of $225 over 5 years and $450 over 10 years.

It's been proven that a synthetic, has a lower operating temp, superior viscosity, and is tougher to break down. That's enough for me to spend a few bucks extra. I consider it a bonus for doing all the changes myself. A little reward if you will.

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It really shouldn't be about price. It should be about what makes you feel better or what you really need. You don't need to run synthetic to get the miles you can out of a Toyota. IMO, synthetic for this application is wasted money. You get all the longevity you could ask for with regular oil and regular service.

Here's a testimonial for you. A customer had there oil changed at a popular fleet and farm store. A week had passed and they where on 494 just about to cross the wacota bridge heading to woodbury. The oil light came on. They continued to drive over the bridge, up the long hill, and finally exited on valley creak and pulled into our lot. I recieved the work order, looked under the car, found a small puddle of oil, jumped in the car, started it up, and drove it into the shop. Once it was on the hoist we found a missing drain plug. The vehicle had been driven 4 or 5 miles uphill with no oil.

Installed a drain plug, put in four quarts, and it was good as new. No rattles, clanks or clunks. Long term I couldn't tell you but its still pretty impressive when you think about it.

It was a late model Toyota Matrix BTW.

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There's no reason to use synthetic and service the vehicle every 6k when you could save a bunch of cash,

A 6k service using synthetic is more expensive than a 5k service with conventional. If your not gaining anything why spend the extra dough?

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Airjer would you knock it off grin

I need 4 tires for the 4Runner before winter cry

Thank goodness a neighbor up the block has a tire shop and owes me for working on his and his mothers computers and is going to give me a deal when the time comes.

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I can almost always do a oil/filter change for about $25 using Mobil 1 and whatever filter is on sale.

Let's say I do that 3 times a year. Ten years that's 30 changes.

The price of a regular Dino change is what? I don't even know. I'm guessing about $15

That's a savings of $225 over 5 years and $450 over 10 years.

It's been proven that a synthetic, has a lower operating temp, superior viscosity, and is tougher to break down. That's enough for me to spend a few bucks extra. I consider it a bonus for doing all the changes myself. A little reward if you will.

+1, longtime Mobil 1 user. I buy a 5 quart jug at Wallyworld (about the only thing I buy there) for $22. It's not base IV stock anymore, but is still a premium oil for just over $4/quart. I also like Amsoil (and tried it once), but it's too $$$ for me.

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