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2010 Fish House Build


Lip_Ripper Guy

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It's been awhile since I looked through this post. I have finished a bunch of the little details, and the outside is 100% done. I'll upload some more pictures tonight.

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The running lights and brakes are wired up (and working!). I used heat sealing butt connectors and heat shrink tubing on every single connection. Hopefully that, combined with LED lights will eliminate any sort of light problem for the next 20+ years. Expensive, but you only think about the cost one time (ongoing motto for this fish house)!

Last week I took the house out on its maiden voyage (a tow around the block), and it pulls way better than I was expecting. I am probably around 1800# right now.

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Your house looks great! Can you tell me where and how much you purchased your door for? I'm having trouble finding one for a resonable price. I need a side door and a rear one. How come you didn't put a door on the rear? My other problem is finishing the outside? Vinyl or alum? I would like a gray color and the alum is kind of spendy compared to vinyl. Can you or anyone share some thoughts on the best option.It sounds like you did pretty good on buying your alum siding. I'm wondering of you looked at colored siding and what you found out? Thanks for any help.

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I got my door from a RV Surplus store on a popular auction site for around $150 + $100 shipping (I don't have my notes with me right now). It has a screen door and window, which lots of the fish house suppliers don't carry.

4 reasons why I didn't do the rear doors:

1) The back wall is the most efficient place for the bunks and also function as a "couch" for fishing. I couldn't see having to put some sort of uncomfortable, flip down bunks for the few times each year I would need the doors, plus then you have to have some sort of chairs. It is possible to make double doors work with a dinette, but you still have problem #3.

2) Underneath the bottom bunk is great storage space, and is where I will have my batteries and on board charger.

3) Air/cold leakage. Many people that have the double doors have problems with cold and frost. I'm spending roughly double the money to have the house spray foamed, so why defeat the purpose and create another spot for cold to get in?

4) I have a full size truck, and it takes less time to pull out the ramps and drive an ATV into the box than it would to either flip up the bunks or disassemble a dinette in order to drive it in. Plus, it keeps the dirt and water outside the house.

I would never consider vinyl siding for a fish house. Fish houses are used in the cold, and vinyl siding gets very brittle. You would need to sheet the outside of the house under the siding, adding considerable weight and cost. I paid $30/sheet for my aluminum siding. The other route to consider is Pro Rib from Menards. I don't remember the exact cost on that, but it was more than what I paid for my siding and diamond plate. You can find any color siding you want, but you'll pay somewhere around $60-80/sheet.

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This is what 800' of wire looks like....a mess!

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I have:

-4 110volt outlets hooked to an exterior outlet. The one under the bunk will power my 3 bank battery charger, there is one in the front for the tv/dvd/satellite, and 2 above the countertops for charging "stuff".

-2 computer fans hooked to a dimmer switch to vary the speed.

-2 4' white LED tube lights (main lights)

-1 6" red LED tube light for night fishing.

-6 LED hole lights.

-Exterior light above the door.

-Car stereo with (4) 6x9 speakers & external antenna.

-15 clearance lights & 2 running/brake/turn lights.

-Electric brakes & breakaway.

-Hydraulic pump.

-Forced air furnace w/thermostat.

-Video hookup running from one of the holes to the TV for the underwater camera.

I have one more set of 110volt wires to run, install 3 or 4 boxes for switches, some tidying up of the wiring, a little bit of testing, and then the electrical will be done...hopefully by tomorrow night.

I have cabinets (cherry) being built, some of the interior woodwork is stained, and the foam will be within the next couple days. I need to be done by the 1st weekend in September, so it is getting down to crunch time.

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First of all, great looking house. I have a question on the hydro lift; Do you lock it in place once lifted, or do the rams keep it elevated at all times? Just curious.

edit, I just re-read all the posts and realized you already answered that question for someone else.

Still a great looking shack.

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Spray foam is DONE! It turned out great, and added an unbelievable amount of strength to the house. With the sun shining the last few weeks it was well over 100 degrees near the ceiling (because of the black rubber roof). After the foam it is an even temperature top to bottom and stays MUCH cooler. This is my first experience with spray foam, but I am extremely impressed.

Right after it was finished:

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After shaving down the foam on the studs:

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Not a fun job. Messy, and A LOT of work. I am using a combination of a sheetrock saw and a scraper on a 6' handle. I have about another hour of touch ups, and then it is on to the tongue and groove. I need to have it done by the end of the week and then it's off to get the cabinets installed.

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Your wheel house looks great, hopeing to build one for this winter myself. I have one question how thick of aluminum sheeting did you buy from Garelick steel? I called up there today and there 4X8 sheets in .040 unpainted were 41.00, did u go with thinner to get painted for 29.00 a sheet?

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Do you put a layer of plastic over the spray foam before you install the tongue and groove? When my residential house was built that put the plastic over the insulation as a vapor barrier (between the insulation and drywall. Curious if you plan to do something similar? I am getting close to installing my tongue and groove and was looking for advice.

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