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chow

Lund 1775 Pro V SE vs Lund 1800 Pro V SE

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Looking for some good debates on helping me to select one or the other here. (And also help choose motor size.) I have pretty much narrowed the search to one of these two boats. Length of the 1775 is 17'2", the 1800 is 18'4". I know that I want to go with a 4 stroke. Now that being said what brand and HP of motor would you put on each and why?

I guess I was thinking of putting a 115HP Yamaha if I went with the 1775 and not sure about what to put on the 1800 but around the 150HP mark. Would this be underpowering the boat to much with these choices or not?

As far as lakes and primary use probably would be the chisago area lakes with the 1-2 trips/ year to Mille Lacs, maybe Leech, etc.

Thanks for your comments in advance.
chow

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Just to give a little perspective I have a 1900 Pro-V tiller. It has a 90 hp Honda. When this tub is fully loaded it will hit 33 mph. This is plenty fast for me,but it would be nice to have a little exta speed. This would give me a few more minutes of fishing before I would have to be back to camp for dinner smile.gif
The only problem I have had with my honda is it was dying very few hours of back trolling. took it in and had some gaskets put in the carbs and it is as good as new.
Will you be using the big moter for trolling if so go with one that will troll down to very low speeds.
my .02
mw

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I would think that the 1775 would be enough boat for the lakes you fish & your fishing trips. Having said that, having a larger boat is like having a larger garage, you can always use the room. Would the 1800 be to long to fit where you are planning on storing it? Somtimes the trailer with the hitch can get to long to fit in your shed.

What ever motor you go with always MAX out the hp rating. Being underpowered to save some $$$ is not a good thing. Plus the boat will handle and perform better. Put a big load in it, like a couple of buddies plus all the gear and having a underpower boat will show up big time.

Good Luck,

PoleBender

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When I bought my Mr. Pike 1700 last spring I was told by 2 different boat people. "An under powered boat is an unsafe boat". Now I have no idea how true that is but I agree with maxing out the rating.
My grandfather used to tell me when I went outside in the winter to dress warm "you can always take the jacket off but you can't put it on if you don't have it with you".
Make darn sure you buy a trailer with a swing tongue.
GOOD LUCK & GOOD FISHING

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Good post Tom. Chow by all means max out the horsepower it will also help on the resale. Does the 1800 have a baitwell upfront. I have a 1775 tiller and it is plenty boat for the waters you mentioned I have a 75 merc 2 stroke and it will push the boat loaded about 32 mph gps and most of the time on mille you cant run that fast lest you spend the rest of your life in traction

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Thanks for the help so far. Yea the 1800 does have a baitwell/livewell up front. Actually I believe the 1775 does as well. I guess after hearing some of these comments I am leaning toward the 1775 with maxing out the HP rating to the 150HP motor. Now for the question. What brand of 150 HP 4 stroke motor should I go with. I was leaning toward Yamaha but I think they only go up to 115HP in a 4 stroke, so who makes the best (most reliable) 4 stroke 150 HP motor?

chow

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Chow,

I've owned a 1775 witha 75hp Tiller and I'm now on my 2nd. 1800 Tiller w/90hp--all 2-stroke, FYI.

I thought my 1775 was a great boat until the new IPS came out and I went to the 1800--it has so much more room and comfort than the 1775, but the best thing is how it handles compared to the 1775 and how fast it gets up on "plane" from a dead stop with the new hull design.

My 1775 was tight with 3 adults and their gear, even with the extra room of the tiller design. The 1800 is the perfect size, the 1900 is just too big for most of us "weekend warriors" and it handles poorly comparativley speaking.

It's obvioulsly your choice on motor size and console vs tiller and those selections depend on your fishing style and comfort level. Motor size, however, can be debated.

Why spend so much extra money on a motor that does nothing but move you around? Your not racing anyone to a spot unless you're in a tournament so speed doesn't matter, not to mention the cost for your gas each trip.

Consider this--a 150hp motor won't allow you to slow troll so you'll be forced to buy an expensive Kicker motor if you're going to do this right)--spend the kicker motor money on your trailer upgrade (one with brakes and higher rating than the salesman's "package" trailer)and better electronics and don't forget your added cost for 24Volt Wiring--don't skimp on this part either!

Sure, the big motor looks cool going down the highway and sitting in your driveway but it's a waste of money in my opinion--I'm not saying go small, just go appropriate and put the money into other more important items in the boat--that's worth more in resale value than a honkin' big motor.

When you sell your boat you can ask more for it by the fact that it's rigged properly and "Water-Ready"... grin.gif

------------------
Chells

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Chow just so you know Mercury's four stroke can be set so the big motor can run as slow as a 9.9 motor can. I'm guessing that it cost more to have that, but why buy two motors when one can do it all.

Just thought you would like to know.

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I put a 115hp 4 stroke Yamaha on my 1700 Mr. Pike. Very quiet, very smooth tops out at 48mph when I trim the motor properly.
I agree with the earlier writer on the trailer. DO NOT short change yourself on this important piece of the puzzle.

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Thanks guys all good stuff. Keep it coming I am listening...

chow

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yea no doubt keep it comming Chells has me thinking I should go out and look at the 1800 myself

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Chow, how many people will be fishing in your boat?
If you have two or more people fishing with you often and you buy a boat with a steering console be sure to get it with two wraparound windshields. One for you and one for your fishing buddy.
18 and 17 Mr. Pike come with two windshields.
It sucks to be the one sitting in the passenger seat with no windshield going 55 mph into the rain and wind.

After having that happen once I know I'll never own a boat without a second windshield.

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I have an Alumacraft TP 185 with the dual counsels and the Yamaha 115 4 stroke. The boat is 18 feet 11 inches long and 96 inches(8 feet) wide. It will sit at about 40 mph when I am making a run down the lake with the wife and myself and our gear. You said that most of your fishing is on the Chisago Lakes area lakes. The 115 yamaha will be more than enough for those lakes. You can probably only go WOT for a minute or two on most of them before you reach the other side. It will also troll down to about 2 mph.

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I purchased the 1775 Pro-V last year with a 115 Merc 4-stroke. Plenty of power. Top end is 42 mph.

If I had a chance to do it all over again I would purchase the 1800 instead. When using the trolling motor it would be real nice to have another few inches between the seat and the front of the boat. I'm 5'10" and feel a little squished at times. This will be fixed this year when I purchase a paddle seat so I can stretch my legs a little more.

The live well up front is in the floor and is kind of akward when trying to get at it. I believe the 1800 has the front live well above the floor (like the back live well).

I have not looked at his years model so I can't really say if either of these come in to play with this years model.

Oops. Gotta go.... a bobber just when down somewhere.

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Renneberg - I would say generally I would have 2 people in the boat, although if friends come into town or something like that the number could be 4. But probably 90% of the time probably two people.

Thanks and all good feedback so far...

chow

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This year's 1800 has me drooling already with just one new feature (I wish my 2001 has)--hidden storage for my 7' rods.

I can't speak highly enough about the Lund products and the innovations they work into each years new models. But most of all it's Lund's quality compared to most others, especially flooring, storage compartments and hardware throughout--it just doesn't break like the others do.

Now that I'm a new Father I'm going to go with a more family-oriented Lund on my next purchase and I'm sure it'll be a console model, either a PROV or Tyee.

Chow, in reading where you typically fish in MN I changed to the 1800 after I had a chance to see the difference in the 1775 and the 1800 on the water--you may not have that opportunity if you're queuing-up for this purchase and want it ready by this spring, but I feel the difference is worth every penny in comfort and handling--regardless of whether you buy a console model or not.

The Pro fisherman almost all drive console boats, except for Mr. Roach, who I feel is the defacto Walleye expert of all time.

I understand why the Pro's use console boats--hours on the water and moving around a lot on BIG water is more comfortable. But, price is no factor for these guys since they either get their rigs totally free or they get Pro discounts that are way below what we pay from the dealers.

If your not a totally Walleye-focused fisherman then the control you get with a tiller is not that big of a deal. If you are a "spot-on" backtroller get a tiller and at least a 72lb. Minkota transom trolling motor and Wave Whackers of some kind. Working live bait on the mud in Mille Lacs or back-trolling over the deep humps in Walker Bay on Leech is so much more productive when you can manuver your rig and place your bait right on Mr. Walleye's dinner table grin.gif


------------------
Chells

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A few more details. I am actually about 1 year away from making this purchase. This will be my first boat, but I have waited this long in order to save for THE BOAT. (I didn't want to settle a few years ago for a "starter boat".

I looked, and talked, and starting to ask lots of questions at the boat show in the cities this year, forums such as this, and to friends with fishing boats. Like I said I have really narrowed it down to the Lund 1775 and the 1800. I feel like obviously the best of these two models is the dual console 1800 with a 150-175 4 stroke. Now the biggest negative with this is $$$ compared to a 1775 single console with a 115HP engine.

I have a pretty good handle on the other rigging features... I do know I want 24V system, Minnkota trolling motor around 60-70 lbs thrust, on board batt charging system, Lowrance X15 with GPS, and will be putting my FL18 on the bow during the summer.

I have a bit of time to work this out yet but by the boat show next year, I want to have this all completely spec'd out and go to every Lund dealer at the show and have them give me thier best price....

Thanks and keep the info flowing!

chow

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Biased opinion but...I just bout a 1800 PROV IFS, 175 Yam HPDI VMAX, it's my second boat and I saved up to get what I think is the perfect boat for me. I fish Leech almost exclusively so I like to keep the water off me with the walkthrough windshield, my last boat was a bit underpowered so I went all out this time. Going 35 or 40 or 55 really doesn't really matter, what's most imporant is what it's like when your actually fishing, it's easy to say "max it out" but honestly, you have to put price and performance together. In January, if you finance the boat, you won't be as happy with the $11,000 motor as you would be if you purchased a $7,000 motor. On the other hand in June you'll love the bigger motor and can easily justify the cost. I would get the Autopilot for the trolling motor, without a doubt thought. I had it on my old boat and it was great especially when it's windy. Good luck, you need to put together cost, how many people you "normally" fish with (as opposed to the once a year thing where 4 guys are in the boat)and what really matters to you, the 1800 is quite a bit roomier, but the 1900 is even bigger, where do you stop? It's funy shopping though...isn't it.

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Chow,

I'm not trying to change your mind here, but since you let us in on your time-frame I'd like to throw this out for you to ponder--shop some of the regional web sites for a used set-up and let someone else pay the depreciation for you. It's my personal experience that you can buy a slightly used rig for way less than new.

I'm talking about a boat that is the current year's model that comes available mid-season to late season, typically from one of the area's guides or one of the local media folks, (e.g. Terry Tuma) who get a new rig every year and sell them end-of-season.

You've got time to shop Walleye Central, etc. for just what you want at a lot less cost.

------------------
Chells

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Chow, I am on my second Lund and will be geting a third in a year or 2. I'm looking at the 1775 SE or 1800 SE as well. Dual console for sure, 135 or 150 Optimax on the 1775 with smartgauges. Lets you troll down to crankbait speeds by adjusting the rpm's Still, you will need a Big electric trolling motor at least 74lbs and 54-60 inch shaft. I am looking at the Genesis. Overpriced a bit but you can steer it form all over the boat not just from the bow. Self deploys and stows, AP, and more. Second choice would be a maxxum 74, but your limited to the bow. Might as well ad a vantage 74 to the transom and wave wackers. 24-volt in all cases. Looking at engine choices and set up, don't forget the tow factor. Lunds are heavy compared to say a Crestliner. the 1775 at around 1355, weights as much as a 19 foot TS crestliner. The 1800 Pro-V is around 1550 lb without motor and if you put a 150-175 Opti on it add another 430+ lbs dryweight. The Yamaha V-max HDPI is a great motor for speed, in the same HP class, but is a higher reving engine and will not troll down nearly enough to troll with. With the 1800, I would definatley put a kicker on it like a 9.9 or 15. They both weight in at 111 lbs. A Genesis 74 on the front. Don't forget a drift sock and anchor and you will have all of your bases covered. Lot's of money yes, but if it's your dream boat, don't skimp, and do it right.
My 2 cents. Good Luck to you.

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Chells,
Thanks for the good advise so far. I have thought about used boats, but I guess when it comes to something like this I would rather be the one to scratch the side while docking, or put a ding in the prop going too shallow. I guess with such a big purchase I would rather know all the history, maintenance, break in, etc...

Good stuff so far though from all, and yep I am still listening for more thoughts...

chow

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I know what you mean, Chow.

I don't buy used Suburbans either!

I'm the last guy to try to talk someone out of buying the boat of their dreams grin.gif

Enjoy your new Lund when you get it!

------------------
Chells

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Chow: I put the vexi on the console with a hi-speed transducer attached and lowrance on the bow on my Mr. Pike. I bought a hand held GPS and had a mount attached to the console. I quess my thinking with the hand held GPS was to use it for ice fishing as well as hunting.
Just another thought. Isn't it fun to have the time to thoroughly plan it out!!
Keep us posted on the purchase.

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Chow I see you have mentioned a 150-175 4 stroke. To my knowledge there is no company that makes a 4 stroke in these HP. The closest motors aare the Suzuki 140 or Johnson 140 (both the same motor). As far as the boats there are some other differences besides the ones previously mentioned. The 1775and 1800 bow and aft baitwells are in the livewells. The 1775 rod locker sticks out into the cockpit area. The 1800 has wider weatheboards. THey both have the pro-trac gunwhale for 2003. The cockpit covers work great on these boats. If I were to purchase either of these two boats I would put a 150 HPDI on the 1775 and a 175 HPDI on the 1800. If you have ay questions on these two boats I would be happy to help.
Thanks
Brian

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CHELLS,
Gary ROach runs a 2025 LE. He has so for the last few years. The reason most of the pros run consoles is because they have to. With the better competition and the bigger purses you have to get to your spot as fast as you can. I have talked to some pros and alot of them have said they would rather be running tiller boats but they have no choice. They would be left in the dust.
Brian

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