Trolling Motor Wiring Question

[rainylakefisher]

I recently bought a 2004 Alumacraft Navigator with a Minnkota trolling motor that I was told was a 24V system. It has two batteries if the forward compartment dedicated to the motor so I didn't question it.

Last night, I disconnected and removed both batteries to get better access to the storage area and didn't make a mental note of how they were hooked up. My understanding is that they need to be hooked in 'series' to get the 24V system, but going off my ever-failing memory, I could swear that they were hooked up red/red & black/black on each battery. Would this be normal? Is it possible the wiring harness creates the 'series' away from the actual battery connections? Would a 65 lb Minnkota possibly be a 12V system?

I should have taken a picture as it was the first time I have messed with it. The trolling motor worked fine before I removed the batteries, but haven't put it back together yet ... didn't want to do it wrong. Thanks in advance to the experts who can weigh in.

[croixflats]

To get double the voltage you go in series positive to neg.

I have to laugh because I always forget which way it goes so I wrote it down and the kicker is I still question myself.

In parrell increases the amperage. pos to pos, neg to neg

[marine_man]

Some trolling motor plugs have the jumper wired into them, making the switch at the plug vs the batteries with a jumper.

Bottom line, if you don't have a jumper wire to go between the batteries positive & negative post, you either don't have a 24V system or the 24V is made at the plug.

marine_man

[timjones]

I have a 24v Minnkota autopilot. The batteries are connected Negative to Negative and Positive to Positive from two of the banks of the on board charger and to the receptacle on the bow. The jumper connecting the two batteries in series is inside the plug for the trolling motor. Hope this helps.

[croixflats]

Some trolling motor plugs have the jumper wired into them, making the switch at the plug vs the batteries with a jumper.

Bottom line, if you don't have a jumper wire to go between the batteries positive & negative post, you either don't have a 24V system or the 24V is made at the plug.

marine_man

I'm glad you brought that up. On my boat I have that switch next to the plug in turning it to a 24 volt or to the 12v system. Its an older boat and for now I'm running a 12 volt trolling motor. And this thread got me thinking about my set up. And I was baffled with the 4 leads leading to the front of the boat. I think I'm going to take the control board apart to see how its wired for curiosity sake.

I have to take it apart anyways to replace the timer for the live well pumps. Speaking of timer where does a guy find a timer and the battery switch.

I hoping to upgrade to a 24v t motor from Dave at pro fishing supply and I suspect the switch is not working correctly