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About rainylakefisher

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    HotSpotOutdoors.com Family
  • Birthday 05/29/1969

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  1. Here are some pictures of what I built. I thought I had a million dollar idea (OK $100 idea) and made a bunch of them from scrap material. Tried to sell them on the list of craig and ended up giving most of them to friends and family. The key is to size the hole in the top plate the size of the collar of your auger. You can slide it in because the sharft is smaller and then it sets firmly in place and can't slide out without lifting up an inch. I even routed the top edge for a nice smooth edge. Make the whole thing 16" long and you can it two studs when mounting on wall. Good luck!
  2. I have a super simple wall mounted wooden rack that I built that allows you to securely store the auger vertically against a wall with no danger of tipping or falling. Highly recommended for safe storage. I don't have pictures at work but will post some later.
  3. Going in my Otter soon. Hoping the Reflectix insulation and FireBrite LED lights will eliminate the need for the propane lantern I'm always hitting my head on.
  4. Any of the better garden centers will have the commercial grade plastic edger. It's around $15 per section and should come with connectors and stakes. I am also "anti-rock mulch" except in rare, high traffic areas. Good slope away from the house and rain gutters are far more beneficial than the plastic sheeting when it comes to water problems. I'd rather have to top-dress the mulch every couple of years than dig out weed-infested rock every 5-10 years. Good clean mulch with a helping of pre-emergent herbicide and your weeds will be minimal.
  5. High quality plastic edging (i.e. commercial grade, straight 20' sections) is a much different product than the cheap stuff you find at the big box stores. I would never use the stuff that comes all rolled up in a box. However, the installation is far more important. If done correctly, plastic edging can be a cost effective, and durable, method to keep your landscape looking nice for years. Here are a couple tricks to consider: 1. Most people put the edger in too high. You only want the very top of whatever you use right at the top of the sod/turf. Grass grows from rhizomes that travel under (or through) your edger. By keeping the edger as deep as possible, you limit the grass creeping into your beds. You also make it less likely to get caught by mowers, etc... 2. The stakes they provide are usually overkill. I buy pole barn nails from a big box hardware store in an 8-pack for $2. Smaller, easier to pound and they leave less of an opening for rhizomes to travel through (and they will). 3. Last, I take the time and effort to overlap the edger when joining two pieces together. You need to cut off 4-6" of the top "bulb" and bottom anchor 'v' and leave the vertical section to overlap with the new piece. Using the standard connectors, pound a stake right through both pieces, and you'll have a very grass resistant joint. I think the 'bullet' edgers are worthless as you literally have a joint every 16" and grass WILL grow through the joints. I also think they are ugly, but that is my own personal opinion.
  6. Getting a full patent is expensive, but getting a provisional patent is relatively cheap and allows you to use 'patent pending' while you explore the commercial viability of your idea. The downside is you only have one year before you have to make the full patent application or you lose any ability to file the full version. I tried contacting a number of ice fishing related companies about an idea for which I have a working prototype. They all asked if I had some type of protection for the idea (patent or patent pending) and woudn't talk with me unless I did. From one inventor to another, "Good luck!"
  7. My oldest daughter (12) is my best fishing buddy. I promised her a Canadian fishing trip and would like to hear some firsthand recommendations of family friendly camps for a summer 2012 trip. I'm willing to do a fly-in, but am open to all suggestions. Price is always a consideration, but not looking for super high or low end - I've heard some places have better rates for kids. Walleye and northern would be the preferred species. Thanks for the input.
  8. If lucky enough to win, I will give it to my 77 year old father who is just getting back into ice fishing after being away from it for a while. I have another Strikemaster, and he could use it more than me. What a great Christmas gift it would be!! Of course, I would have to show him how to use it! Paul Kangas Dayton, MN
  9. I have a 2004 Alumacraft Navigator with a 115 Johnson Fourstroke on it that corners poorly in my opinion. In any significant turn, the prop starts to cavitate and the boat doesn't turn well. The boat has an aftermarket hydrofoil added by the previous owner. My past boat experience was with a smaller boat with a 40 HP motor. It would 'dig' the water much better even though it was a lot lighter. I have to adjust trim a lot to improve the handling. More background data: Aluminum prop ... not sure of the pitch. Top speed is about 40 mph (GPS tested) with one guy. 38 mph with three people. Hole shot is fine as long as trimmed down completely.
  10. OK, I'm embarrassed, I messed up, and I can't blame anyone but me. Long story short, I backed my boat into a wood piling and hit the hydrofoil hard enough to crack the plate above the prop. After the initial shock, and sick-to-my-stomach feeling, I'm looking for advice. FWIW, the motor is a 2004 Johnson 115 four stroke with very few hours. I don't plan on selling the boat for a very long time. I figure I could fix the structural problem by adding a 1/8" stainless steel plate and securing it using the same four holes that hold the hydrofoil. If I put the plate on the bottom, it wouldn't be obvious and the hydrofoil covers up most of the top. Here are my questions for any boat experts: 1. Would insurance cover this type of damage? I do have insurance on the boat. 2. Other than a complete lower unit replacement, is there a way to fix the problem? I know cast aluminum is difficult to weld and might require taking off the entire unit upping the cost even more. 3. What is the black cover held with two screws highlighted by the red arrow? The plate I'm thinking of would cover that piece, but would still be accessible by removing the plate. I would need a hole in the plate to re-install the trim tab. 4. Any idea of the cost of a lower unit replacement? 5. Any good metal fabricators in the NW metro that could fabricate a simple plate from a template?
  11. Bullet edgers have a joint every 8-12". Joints are where grass will send rhizomes. I think bullets are a terrible idea and I personally think they are tacky looking. I would go with aluminum if those are the only choices. Commercial grade black plastic can actually be a decent alternative, but it has to be installed correctly (the top just barely above grade) and anchored well. It also can heave more in heavy clay soils. I use a type of long, round spike I've found at Menards in packs of 8 for $2. They work much better than the flat steel spikes and leave less of an opening. Grass will find any opening! BTW, I'm a landscape architect ... take it for what it's worth.
  12. Good questions ... I just bought the same unit from Nothing But Fishing who is a sponsor on this HSOforum. I don't have it in hand ... just waiting for the UPS guy to show up tomorrow. I spent a lot of time pondering the purchase. It was hard to justify the money as I'm not a pro fisherman. But, I really wanted the sonar/GPS combination as I love having the map chip data right on the screen. Going across Mille Lacs in the middle of the night last year trying to see the screen on my small Garmin hand held was not a comfortable feeling. The side imaging is just too cool not to try! I really wanted the 998 for the slightly bigger screen, but it wasn't big enough to justify the extra $400-500. The 1198 was just too much money for something without a motor on it. I can't wait to try it!!
  13. I'm a landscape architect ... named her Willow.
  14. What type of battery life is typical for an Ice55? My buddy bought a barely used Ice55, with the orginal battery, and we went to Mille Lacs on Saturday. He assures me the battery was fully charged when we left, but his battery didn't make it through the whole day. I get at least 1.5 days on each battery with my FL8. He did use the backlight on the middle display most of the day, but not sure how much that would affect it. Since it was used, we don't know how well the original owner took care of the battery. The unit itself is near perfect and ran fine. I really liked the adjustable zoom feature and might consider an upgrade. BUT, I do a lot of multi-day trips without access to battery charging so I need to know I won't need to bring three batteries all the time to get through the weekend.
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