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2008 Honda Accord Problems


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I’m hoping to get some peoples insight on a problem I’m having with my car.

I have a 2008 Honda Accord 3.5L V6 with about 33K miles. Until today, I thought I had an alignment issue because of all these potholes I’ve been trying to dodge lately... the reason I thought it was alignment is because of shaking in the steering wheel that I noticed around 60-65MPH.

I scheduled an appointment with the dealer to fix the issue this Wednesday but since I had some free time today I thought I’d bring it into CarX just to see what they’d quote me to fix the alignment. The guy test drove the car and when he came back actually said he thinks it’s a drive train issue. He said there’s a shake in the steering wheel and floor, which I hadn’t noticed both before, although I did after. The shake doesn’t happen until about 60-65 MPH (and faster) and you can drive through it (if you accelerate the shake isn’t as bad). When you let off the gas at any speed above 60mph the shake shows up pretty good… not bad but more than noticeable. This is why he thinks its drive train related.

All of that said, my question is what do you think the issue is? Is this guy right, or does it sound like it could be drive train related? Obviously I have an appointment and will soon find out what the issue is but was hoping to get some insight from you guys.

Thanks for your input!

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The way the roads have been I wouldnt rule out anything. I'd check ball joints, tie rod ends and CV axles. Any of these could produce the symptoms described by the loading or unloading of them with torque from accelleration and decelleration.

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I dont hear any clicking or knocking at all. Just the shaking at high speeds, especially when taking my foot off the gas. If it were a CV joint problem would I be hearing a noise? I ask because on other forums this seems to be a symptom.

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a clicking noise when turning is a pretty common noise. At higher speeds if you felt the vibration while accelerating the inboard joint would be a good bet. If you feel it coasting the outboard joint is a possibility. I had an inboard go bad in my prelude. It would only vibrate at around 65-70 during light accel

Determining if it is the cause and/or which one will be the hard part. Like mentioned above a good thorough inspection of the from end would be a good start. Somebody that has experienced your symptom first hand will have no problem figuring it out. Finding that person will be the hard part!

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Need new tires... I typically only put air in my tires if the tire gauge on the instrument panel pops up. Bad habit to have I guess. The tires were underinflated which resulted in abnormal wear on the sides of the tires causing the shaking at high speeds... Dealer wanted 1K for "factory" tires, which are Michelin... hahaha. I am going to shop around, anyone have any recommendations for where I can get the best deal on tires?

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This may sound dumb, but call and check with your local Ford dealer, they have had deals going to be the lowest price, or they will match the lowest price. They have been very reasonably priced and hard to beat their tire prices. It is an easy phone call!

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I'll try Ford and see what they say. Just doing google searches it seems the Discount Tire has the best prices... Anyone ever buy tires form Sam's Club or Costco? I have a membership at both clubs but never looked at tires there... I may go and give them a look tomorrow.

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Wow, Costco and Sam’s, not so good. $193 was the cheapest tire they had for what I was looking for... I don’t like that math when its multiplied out by 4…

Called 3 Ford dealers… The first two had no idea of any promotions. The third was like, yea I think there’s some type of coupon at the front desk. Are you kidding me? You think? In this economy when you have a chance to make a sale, that’s going to be your response? Needless to say I’m not going to Ford.

Discount Tire seems to have the best deal. Tires that I am looking at start at $97 and goes up to the price of a new car. I am debating between Goodyear Eagle GTs and Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus. Anyone have any opinion here? There’s a $50 bill difference between these tires.

Also, one more question. I have a Tire Pressure Monitoring System on my car. They are trying to add on a TPMS rebuild kit for $30… Cant they just use the old ones? The car is two years old. Seems [PoorWordUsage] to me…

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I am leaning toward a broken belt or damaged tire, especially if they are oem, have wear issues, and you have to drive over holes. if it were mine, it would have michelin all the way around. my current car has good years and i hate them, they are noisy, go out of balance quickly and do not last near as long as the mich. my 3/4 ton truck came with mich and at 65k i replaced due to blowout from impact in the freeway. put mich back on they will out last the truck. make sure you are airing the tires up to the pressure listed on the drivers door jamb. it will tell you the tire size recommended and the pressure. the TPM system( which is a joke) should be replaced when you get new tires etc. follow the procedures in the manual to reset the tpm for new tires etc.

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So you have a newer Accord with the V6. A very nice ride IMHO. Why are you putting on the cheapest shoes you can find? Maybe a KIA is more your style. Im not sayin... Im just sayin. Skol.

I wasn’t trying to put the cheapest tires on. I just was saying the selection was wider at Discount Tire and a grand at the dealer seemed pretty ridiculous…. The dealer offers one option; an exclusive derivative tire from Michelin which is the factory tire used on the car... I am going with the equivalent from Discount Tire; Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus. Stills going to cost nearly $800 all in...

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I think they are required to service the TPMS any time the tire is off the wheel.

Not required. We rarely use the kits. If they leave them alone they will more than likely be fine. Some places like to unbolt them from the wheel and let them drop into the tire before they dismount the tire in order to prevent an accidental breakage of the sensor.

I have yet to do it that way and have not had any issues replaceing tires with them left mounted to the wheel. If the tire is dismounted and remounted properly there shouldn't be any issues.

As far as your two choices, Make sure you consider the all the seasons Minnesota has to offer. A tire that can handle all the conditions will make travel a little easier!

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