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rear suspension?


broken_line

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If it's riding noticeably different this year than last, then something is definately up. Either the shocks need to be rebuilt, or you have a broken spring. I've been told by shock rebuilders, that if you ride hard, shocks should be rebuilt every 1000 miles. I just brought mine to B-line in Lindstrom. I will be getting it back tonight or tomorrow, but I know it will be a night/day difference after the rebuild, as I've been told this by many fellow sledders after their rebuilds. Good luck.

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would i be able to make a plate that bolts on the tunnel to raise the rear of the suspension so i would gain more ground clearnance?

You can do that but it will accomplish nothing as far as improving ride quality, travel or how easily it bottoms out. All it will do in the end is make the seat height higher in the rear when it is at the end of its travel.

When you say the shocks are "perfectly fine" what are you basing that on? Are they new? Are they the same brand, or did you test them in any way? Shocks will make a huge difference in how easily a sled bottoms out even with the same springs.

As an example, I replaced my shocks this year because I had no more adjustment left on my rear spring. I was on the stiffest setting and starting to bottom out too frequently. Now, with new shocks I am on the second softest setting and rarely bottom any more.

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I've had shocks go bad on 2 sleds that I had, one was a '92 Cougar and the other was a '98 ZL500, both did basically the same thing, on the first ride of the day, things were fine, then about 1/2 hour to one hour into the ride, the shocks were gone, the rear suspension would rebound as fast as you stepped it down, just like the shock wasn't even there. Once I replaced the shocks with a new gas shock, it was as good as new and even better.

It would be strange that your suspension would change that fast, springs just don't let go like that unless they are busted which you should be able to visually see, I would go after the shock if it was me.

Mike

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There are technical ways to test shocks, like measuring resistance, but in a case like this I'm going to assume that you have standard hydraulic shocks (not rebuildable gas). On a regular shock the valving is usually constant and will provide equal resistance through out its entire range. You should not be able to push it up or down with any quickness at all. It should take at least a few seconds to fully extend or compress it and it should move smoothly through the entire range. You should not be able to hear any bubbling or gurgling from the oil inside when moving it.

Its just my opinion, but if you have no broken springs and you are lighter, I'm gonna stick with shocks as your problem. Springs can lose tension, but more often break.

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