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Ruegs23

Platform for boat

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would anybody know how to build or mount a platform or casting area in the front of a boat? I have a 16 ft lund that has a flat floor until the farthest bench to the bow and from that bench to the bow has no floor. I would like to build a platform that runs as high as the bench to the bow of the boat. I bought a sheet of treated plywood, but am not sure how to mount it on the boat. Are there some sort of brackets I could use and how would I fasten them to the boat?? I am planning on putting a pedastal seat on this platform as well. So I am not sure how to brace the platform to hold a seat. Anyway, if anyone has any tips or websites I could look at I appeciate any advice. Thanks,
Ruegs23

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First off you'll have to make a pattern of the inside shape of your bow section. As big as you'll need to make your deck.

By any chance, does your boat have one of those little bow seats? If yours is anything like my old S-14, you can use that as your casting deck's front support. Extend the deck back to the first complete bench and build it up in the back to make the whole deck section level. I used (2) sections of treated 2x4 as bracing. One at the trailing edge of the small bow seat, one at the leading edge of the first complete bench. These not only provided support, they kept the deck from sliding front to back.

I used 3/4" treated ply for my deck and found I didn't need any extra bracing for the seat base. With the finished product being a bit of a press-fit, I had no need to permanently mount it. Besides, having it removeable was sort of neat. And the deck was wide enough to not be "tippy". If you did have to attach it to the boat, building a couple brackets to utilize existing hardware won't be that tough.

I also had two small hinged hatches on either side of the seat base for access to storage under the platform.

I have some pictures of the mod I did to my old boat. I'll see if I can dig them up and scan them for ya.

This may not be the info your looking for, but I hope it helps a bit anyway.

Dan

BTW.... Where ya located? Maybe if I'm in your area, I could give you hand.

------------------
[email protected]

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Great tips Dan!!
An easy way to make a pattern is to take a string, mark off 1 inch increments on it with a marker, then run it down the center line of the seats to be decked over, attach it so it is tight. Then, take a tape measure and measure from this string cenerline at a right angle out to the edge of the boat and jot this down on paper. You'll only have to do one side since they will both be the same. Do this all the way back. Then, all you have to do is mark off your centerline on your plywood and mark it off accordingly on each side of the centerline. Connect the dots, and there's your platform!! When you cut it out, angle the saw a little to conform to the angle of the hull. If you are off a bit, no biggie since the carpet will make it a tight fit.
As far as attaching it to the boat, I just ran some screws with washers to prevent them from pulling through into the seats. If it is anything like my old lund, you'll have to place 2 chunks of 2x4 on the front seat to make it level. Do this too before you start your measurements or they will be off. If you really want to make it sturdy, place 2 lengths of 1x1 angle iron under it for support, but 3/4" treated should be enough. If you want storage, hinge the front instead of screwing it down.
Good luck

------------------
>"////=<
Gull Guide Service
fishingminnesota.com/gullguide
Brainerd-Mille Lacs-Willmar
Bemidji-Ottertail

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Thanks for the info guys!! This is the way I thought about going about this project. The very front bench ( the small one) already has a case built around it to store a battery. The tip of the boat is set up for a bow mount trolling motor. I just need the floor. The only concern I am having is that the bench seat farthest forward, but not the little one, is over 4 ft wide. So I am not sure how to cut the plywood. I'm not sure if you know what I mean, but I would have to cut the plywood the the short way and then it would not reach the front of the boat. Dan, I am in the st cloud area. If you could send pics that would be very helpfull. Thanks guys!
Ruegs23

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Make sure your platform is "pushing" down to the middle of the boat [with a center support(s)] to avoid putting outward pressure on the sides of the boat. The last thing you want is to disfigure the boat and introduce the potential for leaks. If you do any "pitching" type casts, you'll want the platform as high as possible, but not so high that your boat becomes "top-heavy" or unstable while you are standing. Try to leave enough room behind your seat post to allow yourself room to spin around and stand up without falling into the main part of your boat. Also consider whether you are going to utilize a hand or foot controlled motor...how is it to be mounted? Where does the battery go? Flasher? Cables? Are you planning on storing gear under the platform? Anchor(s)? Tackle? Cooler of Beer? And the inevitable question...will this boat really function properly with all this weight up front? I've witnessed this mistake made several times where a guy ends up with a great platform/storage, but not only is the boat nose-heavy and difficult to control, but the main motor will barely get the boat on plane (if at all). Experiment with weight prior to any modifications and you should avoid the pitfalls. Good Luck!
FLB

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Hi

This thread has been "cold" for a while now, but I was surfing the bass fishing news group
(rec.outdoors.fishing.bass - also known to
those that follow it as ROFB), and came across a thread on jon boats.

There was a response from a gentleman who has a web page which shows a number of pictures of what he did to his boat. I've enclosed the
posted URL below. Click "Jon Boat Project" on
the page.

Hope this helps....

UG

http://todd.copelandhome.net/

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I have the exact same question, I want to put a floor into our boat to use for fishing and hunting. I'm concerned about putting stress on the sides of the boat and I don't know how to match the floor to the curves in the boat. If anyone has any tips or examples to follow I would appreciate it.

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I have a WS16 lund, what I did was take a piece of card board, cut the "general" curviture of the bow, then get your kids or make a compass, you know the thing with the point on one side and the pencil on the other, then set it up to the widest point you need to get a line on the cardboard. all the while holding the 2 points parallel to the bench seat, then just hold that position and start front to back or opp.draw you line and cut with knife, till you get the shape you need, you need only 1 side's copy since you know it should work on the other side, then copy it to another chunk of cardboard, tape the 2 together and transfer to your wood, I used 3/4 treated also. if you like send an email [email protected] ill get you a pic. only thing I would do different is to think of something lighter to use than 3/4 ply, without sacrificeing strenth,

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I also have a 16' Lund and made a deck that is quite close to Dan97's description. One difference is I used a couple large hinges on the little bow seat so I could lift the whole deck for easy access. The seat up there is mounted so when the deck is up it rests on the seat. It's a little heavy but manageable, and easy to clean and access for storage.

Lots of good suggestions here - like the one about making the pattern for the deck.

Now does someone have an easy way to make a pattern and construct a lightweight, easily removable floor? One concern about the floor is having something that rests on most of the floor so the hull isn't stressed - or shouldn't that be a concern? I hate walking and standing on the curve and the ribs.

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I've redone 4 boats, 3 of them Lund's. The 3rd boat, I got it right. The biggest stress a boat gets is when it on the road. Road vibes will eventually loosen every screw you put in so lock bolt or alum tap every where possible. Plan for the best accessibilty for attachments when locking the deck to the frame-work.

I set my boats up with a deck in front and a removable deck for the back.

Rather than go on about this,I'll see if I can get some pics on here for you. I still have the last 2 Lunds.

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