Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

1998 Chevy 1500


Recommended Posts

I started to notice that my pickup turns over for a longer period of time than usual, even if the engine is warm it turns over good but takes a little for it to fire. It has a brand new battery in it. What would be causing this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could be a weak pump, partially clogged fuel filter or the fuel pressure regulator getting bad. If it hasnt had a filter in a while do it no matter what, then check the fuel pressure and you should be able to tell from that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is no reason to run "heat" through a vehicle in MN.

If you notice the extended crank more after a hot soak (drive for 20 minutes shut it of for 5 minutes then try to restart) than there is good chance your loosing fuel pressure.

Fuel pressure regulators leaking usually have a short ruff idle time right after they start to to the extra fuel in the intake.

The pump can also let fuel pressure drop when the key is turned off.

A fuel pressure gauge will serve you well to confirm or eliminate these two possibilities

A fuel filter will rarely cause a driveability complaint. I have never had a customer requested fuel filter solve a no start, extended, crank, rough idle, or any other complaint. If it has never been changed it will do you good to get it done. It may even double the life of your pump. If its really plugged up you'll be replacing the pump within three months.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A fuel filter will rarely cause a driveability complaint.

This is one I see frequently enough to have to respectfully disagree. confused Many of our GM (P35)delivery vehicles put on as much as 50 thousand miles a year. We sometimes have them come in with a "shifts hard into 2nd" or "winds out too much before shifting" complaint (usually winter) that is rectified with a filter. Even with 25,000 mile intervals we sometimes still have problems in between. The main problem is these vehicles are in and out of heated buildings several times a day and build up a lot of condensation in the tanks. I have actually found totally plugged filters that would let nothing through at all. Talk about driveability problems....... smile

On a diesel, you will find a driveability problem caused by a clogged filter far more often and far more exaggerated than on a gas engine though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is no reason to run "heat" through a vehicle in MN.

If you notice the extended crank more after a hot soak (drive for 20 minutes shut it of for 5 minutes then try to restart) than there is good chance your loosing fuel pressure.

Fuel pressure regulators leaking usually have a short ruff idle time right after they start to to the extra fuel in the intake.

The pump can also let fuel pressure drop when the key is turned off.

A fuel pressure gauge will serve you well to confirm or eliminate these two possibilities

A fuel filter will rarely cause a driveability complaint. I have never had a customer requested fuel filter solve a no start, extended, crank, rough idle, or any other complaint. If it has never been changed it will do you good to get it done. It may even double the life of your pump. If its really plugged up you'll be replacing the pump within three months.

I have had a couple of times where Fuel Filter causes a slow start problem. It is uncommon though (of course it happened to my own vehicle). It is probably the most neglected filter on the vehicle so it never hurts to change it (especially since a 33481 fuel filter is 5.99) It definitely extends the life of the pump, a good thing to do on those trucks.

As far as heat goes, your right for sure, its probably not necessary with the ethanol content of gasoline we got. I have had my fuel lines freeze once (granted it was -38) so heat is something I still use when its really cold.

A fuel pressure test would nail down whats the problem for sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fuel relies on pressure to keep from boiling over. At 60psi or so it will take a lot of heat to get the fuel to boil in the fuel rails. High pressure fuel injection systems have virtually eliminated vapor lock that was really common with lower pressure carburated fuel systems.

When fuel pressure bleeds off in a modern vehicle such as yours the fuel will boil in the fuel lines when the engine is hot. Fuel injectors don't work unless there is liquid fuel in the lines. It takes a while for the vapor to make its way out of the fuel lines after a hot soak. The result is an extended crank.

Fuel pressure regulators and fuel pumps are the two common sources for extended crank. Fuel pressure regulators more so and since the leak raw fuel into the intake they are more noticeable and/or can take longer for the vehicle to start since it needs to "deflood" and push the vapor out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is probably the most neglected filter on the vehicle so it never hurts to change it (especially since a 33481 fuel filter is 5.99) It definitely extends the life of the pump, a good thing to do on those trucks.

I towed in a chevy truck one time with over 200k on it. The owner asked what my initial thought was and I said probably a fuel pump. I asked him how many he has replaced and he said its the original pump but he changes the filter on a regular basis.

Its no secret that chevy pumps seem to like the 80 to 120k mark for failure and 9 out of 10 times the filters are plugged solid. With regular filter replacement he easily doubled the life of his pump and saved well over $600 in the process!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you know where to look you can use an inspection mirror stuffed down the throttle and see if it is dripping. Or you can let it hot soak for a couple of minutes and then, with the engine off, open the throttle and take a whiff. There should be a gas odor but if it overwhelms you its probably leaking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
    • Sketti...  not out of a jar either!
    • Lol yeah I watched that
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.