mudslinger Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 I took my sleds out of the garage and around the block before trailering them and one seems like it wants to slow down real quickly once I get off the throttle. Its almost like the brake is on a little bit. The first sled out was normal and the second one did this. I porbably drove each 1/4mi. No adjustments to the track were made in the off season. Is it that the slides didn't get enough snow on them??? or could the track be too tight??? Any thoughts??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benelli_dude2002 Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 could there be bearings going bad in the rear suspension? that would effect things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Your gut is probably right. There is something likely binding. There are a lot of possibilities from seized bearings in a number of places to a hanging brake. If you didn't touch the track adjustment I would doubt the track is too tight. You'll just have to dig in with both hands. Try lifting the rear of the sled up and taking off the drive belt. You should be able to spin things a little more freely by hand and possibly tell where the binding is coming from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63ihharvester4x4 Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 go through grease it while its on a jack stand and spin it by hand to see if you can hear where it's hanging up at. because if the bearings didnt get greased before it was parked for the summer, there might of been water in some of the bearings causing them to rust and hang up on ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surface Tension Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Yep, get it up in the air and on a stand. Check the deflection of the track. They do tend to shrink a little during storage. Anyway midpoint of the track is where you check for deflection. So many lb pull x distance. I just do it by feel and sight. While your at it rotate the track and look to see that the rear axle wheels are turning. Check the idler wheels for slop and hyfax for wear. Greasing should have been done last Spring when temps were warm. Any water that was in there is froze now unless you get it in a heated garage long enough to thaw everything out. Shall we go on?Check the oil level in the chain case. Adjust chain tension.Adjust belt fit.Check track alignment.Grease the jackshaft if you have a fitting.Grease steering, ski posts always seem to have water there, again should be done when warm out to force water out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxMN Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Newbie question - how do you adjust the belt tension? thnx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surface Tension Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Box I changed my post from belt tension to belt fit. Depending on what sled you have you can adjust the fit of the drive belt by shimming or and adjustment of the secondary pulley. As a belt wears it will ride deeper into the secondary pulley. You can account for that wear with an adjustment. Or say the previous owner made that adjustment and you didn't know that and decided to put a new belt on. The belt should flush or 1/16th" above the secondary pulley. If you have more belt then that above the pulley then it could mean it had been adjusted to an other belt. Anyway it is something to look for when you do a visual. Chain tension is one of those things that probably gets overlooked. I turn the secondary back and forth to feel the amount of play and adjust from there if need be. 1/8th-1/4 turn is where I leave it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Another thing I thought of because it happened to me today, excess rust buildup on the brake disc during storage. It took me a few good laps and hard braking to clear the rust from storage off the brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macgyver55 Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Accumulated rust on the track clips will also contribute, but will gradually clean off with use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudslinger Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 Thanks fellas!!! You're info has been great. I have the garage warming up and am going to dive in tomorrow. I wanna believe its excess break rust because I may remember something of the sort last year. Also, I greased everything and tensions seem right but I will measure to be sure. The sled is a 95 Z440 with 6900mi. Its well maintained for the seasons. Ill let ya know what I find so we can all learn something or so you can say "I told ya so!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxMN Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Depending on what sled you have you can adjust the fit of the drive belt by shimming or and adjustment of the secondary pulley. As a belt wears it will ride deeper into the secondary pulley. You can account for that wear with an adjustment. Or say the previous owner made that adjustment and you didn't know that and decided to put a new belt on. The belt should flush or 1/16th" above the secondary pulley. If you have more belt then that above the pulley then it could mean it had been adjusted to an other belt. Anyway it is something to look for when you do a visual. Chain tension is one of those things that probably gets overlooked. I turn the secondary back and forth to feel the amount of play and adjust from there if need be. 1/8th-1/4 turn is where I leave it. Thanks Frank! That makes sense, and will check both belt and chain, wish I would have done it when it was warmer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudslinger Posted December 16, 2009 Author Share Posted December 16, 2009 My problem was that the track was too tight. I think its odd that it was that tight since it was fine last year. Contributing factors could have also been rusted clips and a rusted brake disc but once I set the track to the correct tension and deflection everything was and is perfect. Bearings and wheels all checked out too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macgyver55 Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Glad its ok now. I'd still recheck tension after riding a while. You'll likely find it has loosened up after some miles are put on it. Its best to adjust tension after riding it a bit to loosen things up. Happy trails! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surface Tension Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Like Mac check the tension and the track alignment after riding. The distance between the left and right axle wheels and outside of track. I just get behind the sled and feel both sides with my fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudslinger Posted December 18, 2009 Author Share Posted December 18, 2009 Will do. It still blows me away that it was that tight. Im picturing an inspection once I reach the first watering hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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