Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

It fixed itself........


Recommended Posts

Not.

I know things don't fix themselves, and PFM has nothing to do with it.

Here's the kooky deal. Wednesday night I drove my rusty but trusty 89 chev pickup home. It was running fine. Thursday morning I jumped in to go to work, cranked it over, no start. I dumped a splash of gas down the carb and it popped right over and ran for a few seconds. This was like 5 in the morning and I didn't have time to mess around so I jumped in my car and went to work.

While at work I was thinking my fuel pump took a dump and I was reveling in the excitment of replacing it. Got home, turned the key, and it started right up. Shut it off, scratched my head and started it back up. Shut it off, got a beer, and started it back up. So on and so on and so on.

This morning, it started right up.

So, the question I have for those more in the know than I am is do these fuel pumps play a few games, work, don't work, work, don't work before they finally go for good?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 2000 malibu that did that for about 3 monthes and it turned out to be the fuel pump. The last straw though was when I was cruisin' along and bam all the gauges lit up like I was going to start it. Of course I had to have about ten people bumper to bumper behind me. smirk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

check the wires on the fuel pump. the wifes truck did this for a week before i figured it out. one of the ground wires were broke right at the yellow connecter that goes into the pump. sometimes it wound start and others it wouldnt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Should be Throttle Body Injection (often mistaken for a carb) on it. Don't be suprised if you pull the tank down and need to replace a chunk of the wiring harness as well as the sending unit and lock ring that holds the pump in place. The fuel filter should still be checked again as the sock on the fuel pump may be deteriorated enough that the fitler is restricted by rust again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Should be Throttle Body Injection (often mistaken for a carb) on it. Don't be suprised if you pull the tank down and need to replace a chunk of the wiring harness as well as the sending unit and lock ring that holds the pump in place. The fuel filter should still be checked again as the sock on the fuel pump may be deteriorated enough that the fitler is restricted by rust again.

Just curious. In either 88, or 89 you could get the truck with 4b-carb or TBI injection. I couldn't remember which year it was.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Truly sorry to hear that duffman! I know that feeling.  Keep the good memories  
    • Chamois passed away this weekend a couple days short of her 13th bday. What a great dog to hang out with here at home and on distant adventures. Gonna miss ya big time my little big girl.
    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.