Motor boggs down, fuel pump?

[AaronM]

Motor: 1997 Evinrude Intruder 115 horse 2 stroke

Problem: When pushing the throttle down to start moving, the motor won't get up and go unless you pump the bulb. If you pump it, the boat gets up and goes as usual until it starts bogging down and the bulb gets primed, then it fires up again and keeps moving. I'm hoping this isn't a fuel pump issue, I've sworn to stop putting $$$ into this motor and I'm hoping that there might be a better solution. I've added pictures because I'm the visual type, but my motor knowledge is pretty limited. Can this be a do-it-yourself project? Any comments, tips, help is much appreciated.

[kc0myy]

first off I would say its the fuel pump. but try replacing all the fuel hoses. because they might be rotted by them being rotted you would be sucking air insted of fuel. but it does sound like the fuel pump going out.

[BoxMN]

To me it sounds like a bad bulb or fuel line. If you can, get a six gallon can from somebody else that woudl fit (OMC) and try that, with THEIR fuel line. If it works, then you know it is either the tank, the fuel line ro the bulb. If it does the same thing, then something with the motor.

I rebuilt my carb on a 96 25hp, was doing similar thign to yours, and I found three things that taught me alot -

1. I installed the float upside down... doh! Really watch what you are doing, and take pics of the steps if you are new to doing this. It was pretty easy to rebuild carb thoguh. Hardest part was taking the starter off to get at carb.

2. after making sure it was fixed right second time, I must have got some junk in jet. It would idle. A easy and free shot of air through jet after taking needle out fixed everything! Now it is running like a Merc (I like Mercs!)

3. I also rebuilt the fuel pump. Rebuilding the fuel pump is easy and only cost me $16. The carb rebuild cost me $23 I think. If you are comfortable with regulat hand tools and spending some quality time with your motor, you can save quite a bit of money.

also learned that in the end, these motors basic functions (carb, fuel pump, fuel delivery) are pretty simple and rather easy to work on. Just have a phone number to a mechanic friend handy just in case, or internet access so boatfixer and Frank and marine_man and shack and others can help you fix your own mistakes

Good luck, but once you get it fixed you will be happy again, trust me. I know. Also, the most obvious solution is usually the one that works. I bet yours is the fuel line or the bulb having an air leak.

[machohorn]

I had that happen on my Merc. 150. There is a low pressure and a high pressure pump. The low side works like the old mechanical carbs. This was the bad one ( pump bulb it would run)A re-build kit was $17.00 a new unit was $70 Quick fix only 5 minutes labor. Do not run motor while pumping bulb too fast you will lean out the motor.

[AaronM]

Thanks very much for the replies, I appreciate all the help very much! I really have a feeling it's the pump, however I will check the hose to be sure. The fuel pump was replaced three years ago, can it really be bad already? How difficult is rebuilding it? Hopefully it's not too hard to access. Thanks again and looking forward to further replies!

[AaronM]

So where do I start looking for the problem? My plan is to replace the hose to begin, but what do I troubleshoot next? What is the best way to access the fuel pump?

[broken_line]

not sure on evinrudes but i believe the fuel is in the 2nd pic where all the gas lines go into. its pretty easy fix i would say half hour for someone that has a half knowlage..

[boatfixer]

Pull the 4 bungee like straps holding the air box in place off and remove the air box. The fuel pump/VRO is sitting right there between the carbs.

2 things,

1. Is the alarm going off at all?

2. Is it over injecting oil?

I just got done with '96 that was over injecting due to the fuel side of the pump being weak.

As others have mentioned, make sure you have no leaks in the fuel line and replace the fuel filter, (follow the fuel line to the filter, its white and has a 90 degree elbow and is right next to the pump).

Make sure of these things due to the cost of the new VRO, its a little over $400.

If you have access to a good fuel pump pressure and vacuum guage, test for both. I have trouble shooting flow charts for the pump as well, but you will need to have a low pressure pump with a guage to perform the tests.

[AaronM]

Thanks again for the replies. Boatfixer, it's interesting you mention the buzzer. I have occasionally prior to this incident have had the No Oil buzzer go off. I'd turn the key off, then restart and be on my way. What does that info tell you?

[boatfixer]

A steady buzz indicates overheat OR fuel restriction/no fuel flow

Buzz every 30 seconds or so indicates low oil in tank

Buzz every second indicates no oil is getting to the pump (air leak in oil line, restriction,)

[AaronM]

It's a steady buzz and I don't believe it's due to being hot. What does that mean?

-Thanks again for all the help thus far. It's very appreciated!

[boatfixer]

A steady buzz is either overheat or a restriction in the fuel flow, which is what you seem to have. It can either be a dirty fuel filter, air leak in the line, plugged anti siphon valve, bad primer bulb or a bad fuel pump.

[seahag]

I have a 1992 90hp evinrude that does the same thing and I would like to tackle it b-4 a big trip I have end of july,I noticed when I hit the ignition primer I get that burst of power then quickly fades,I also have a problem with cold starts,do you have the same problem? This topic has been helpful and pretty much confirms what I thought. I'm not sure how to identify the fuel pump,I'm reasonably handy with tools but careful not to step far outside the box and challenge my mechanical ability and get over my head but would love to save a buck! any and all advice would be greatly appreciated

[AaronM]

Thanks again for the replies. I know I'm jumping ahead of myself here, but if it is the VRO pump that is bad, can't it be replaced with a non-VRO pump for a fraction of the cost? Any pros or cons to that (besides pre-mixing the fuel)?

[boatfixer]

A non oil pump will be about 100 bucks or so less than an oil mixing pump give or take a little. It depends on where you get it. I guess other than mixing it yourself, thats the only downside I can think of.

[1DIRTBALL]

Your problem definitely sound's like an air leak issue to me as well FF. I had a similar problem with my 25 HP Johnson. After I replaced all the fuel line's, including the line on the motor going from the fuel pump to the carb, I had no further problem's. Try posting your query in the Duluth forum, to the attention of Surface Tension. Frank know's outboard issue's very well indeed. Bet he could help you. Good luck! 1DIRTBALL

[Surface Tension]

Thanks 1DIRTBALL for the words.

Bruce and MM see this stuff everyday and are very capable.

I think the replies are on the right track.

Start with the fuel line. That engine sucks gas at a good rate so a tiny air leak or restriction is going to give you problems.

If you can find a remote tank w/hose try that but keep in mind remote tanks are in most cases for smaller outboards and have a smaller dia hose so it could still act like its starving for gas.

If you do replace the hose and bulb get a replacement that is the correct dia hose for the outboard.

[AaronM]

Thanks again for the replies. Your knowledge and help are much appreciated! I'll check the hoses and fittings first, but the reason I'm thinking it's the VRO is I've had these exact same symptoms four years ago and it was the VRO. Hoping it's something small but my hunch is the vro is the culprit.

[fatcat45]

I bought a VRO on the internet,real easy to install,but not cheap..I still have the same problem but only once and a while.

replaced hose&bulb from tank also,going to replace all the rest of hoses soon..good luck and keep us updated..