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    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
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Brownie77

Trout Newbie

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My dad lives a mile form a great trout stream. I will be giving it a shot later this month. This is in Northern MN any advice, bait, weights etc? I will be using a spining rod, so I am not a purist.

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personally Panther Martins size 0-2.. in either black/yellow with bronze.. or Yellow/Red with bronze blade.. those are the only two spinners i have ever needed trout fishing.. if ones not catching them.. the other one will... make sure you're using 2-4lb line.. i prefer XT to help cut down on the nicks you'll get from casting in riffles..

good luck

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if live bait is an option worms work . add split just enough weight to get it down and fish on a number 10 Aberdeen

small in-line spinners small jigs you can even use nymph patterns just add split shot about 2-3 feet up from nymph and dead drift

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I will be using a spining rod, so I am not a purist.

Using a spinning rod doesn't preclude being a purist. It's just some fly fisherman are convinced otherwise.

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Also, don't rule out the #4 and even #6 panther martins. I always assumed they were too big, but at times I've caught fish on them when the smaller spinners weren't producing.

3320559977_c04eac6654.jpg

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Also, don't rule out the #4 and even #6 panther martins. I always assumed they were too big, but at times I've caught fish on them when the smaller spinners weren't producing.

I agree. I rarely use anything smaller than a #4 martin. They tend to stay down closer to the bottom, you can fish them slower with the current, and you can cast them farther. Don't forget about small cranks and plastics too. I always remove the front hook from my cranks to cut down on snags and the damage to the fish. Nothing worse than a little 8 incher with both hooks buried. This past season I started to use the 2 1/2" gulp minnows on a jig in the deep holes and shoots. Man can that be fun!!

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If you plan to go the spinner route tie on a small swivel, followed by 12 – 18 inches of fluorocarbon line, and then tie on your panther martin. The swivel will prevent your line from getting twisted to hell and the fluorocarbon is practically invisible to the fish. But that’s just my opinion.

Tight lines

Brian

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Also, don't rule out the #4 and even #6 panther martins. I always assumed they were too big, but at times I've caught fish on them when the smaller spinners weren't producing.

3320559977_c04eac6654.jpg

ah.. yea.. i forgot #4's.. i was thinking #2 were #4 for a second.. #4 is usually what i fish.. unless im fishing tiny streams.. then im using #2 and under..

also.. yellow/red is one of my top choices for PM colors.. followed by black/yellow

PS: dont let them fly fishing purists get you down.. cuz on average.. i out fish any Fly with a PM

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Anyone had any success with the crawdad Panther Martin? A #4 Crawdad turned into one of my go to lures shortly after opener last year. Had so much luck had to pick up a few more. Lost most of it's coloring midway through season.

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If you plan to go the spinner route tie on a small swivel, followed by 12 – 18 inches of fluorocarbon line, and then tie on your panther martin.

[PoorWordUsage], that is a good idea.

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If you plan to go the spinner route tie on a small swivel, followed by 12 – 18 inches of fluorocarbon line, and then tie on your panther martin. The swivel will prevent your line from getting twisted to hell and the fluorocarbon is practically invisible to the fish. But that’s just my opinion.

Tight lines

Brian

personally i think you get less action when you add a swivel to spinner baits.. that extra spin kinda messes up the spinning of the blade.. but thats just my opinion

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Try bending the wire. Place a needle nose pliers just under the wrap and bend the tip down about 45 degrees. This lowers the center of gravity of the lure below its axis causing it's body to turn less. Less body rotation= less line twist. If you bend the wire too much you'll get less action on the blade because it will hit/ rub the wire a little. Too little and you won't reduce your line twist. Give this a shot, it may save you from dealing with a lot of loops in your spool.

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don't forget the raps. ant floating jerkbait around 2"-3". they have almost entirely replaced spinners in my box. and no more line twist! i'm gonna try the 2 1/2" strike king paddletail swimbaits this year as well, i want to have more single hook baits when C&Ring trout.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
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