Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
Yellowhead

Printer Problem

Recommended Posts

I just calibrated my printer Spyder 3 Pro calibration tool. My monitor looks great but my prints (Canon Pixma Pro 9000) are a mess. They are just soaked with excess ink. I'm not sure there is a connection between the calibration and the problem but I never had this problem before. Anybody got an ideas?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yellowhead, there are printer profiles for the print papers you are using that can be downloaded from the paper manufacturers and installed so your prints will be more true to the monitor colors, though it's not always perfect. You also should have some type of printer driver software that needs to be installed (came with the printer), and then when you are printing you can select the printer type and paper type so the computer and printer can talk to each other and arrive at the right combination of ink distribution.

There's some trial and error here, and a lot of ins and outs, and I think Dan (Dbl) knows more about this than I do. After I activated my printer driver software, I just calibrated my monitor by eyesight to match what was coming out of the printer, and I've been good to go ever since.

Also, I use a Mac, where these things tend to go more simply. PC users have a bit more work ahead of them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve looks to be right on with his advice. If you are printing your own shots you really need to have a color managed work flow that starts with your monitor calibration (you've done that) and goes to profiling your printer.

Starting with the easy way you can just experiment with adjusting your printer driver to get the results you want. Not easy and uses a lot of valuable materials, ink, paper, and time. You will get acceptable results over time.

The next step would be to install as Steve said ICC profiles for each of your papers and if the profiles are high quality you will get good results with not much more work. The profiles are really important to get consistent results.

If you can't find ICC profiles for your printer and papers there are places that will do a custom profile for you. Keep in mind they are not particularly cheap.

Your excess ink problem may be related to your calibration. I would find profiles or start playing with your printer driver settings in the software. Use the custom settings in the software to start applying the changes until you get the desired outcome.

This is one of the reasons I use a lab for all of my prints except an occasional 4x6 at home. I download the labs ICC profile and use "soft proofing" that enables you to see what your print will look like from the lab.

Good luck with the saturation problem, if you want post back with how it turns out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One other possibility is the paper you are using. Have you switched to a different paper? I also have a Canon Pixma printer and it does not print well with Kodak paper. The ink does not soak in and pools on the surface. I stick with Canon paper, but like Steve and Dan, I send most photos to a lab and use their ICC profiles for soft proofing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ditto on what Steve, Dan, and WCS said.... Pretty sure it's the paper. Like Dan said it's the ICC profiles that you need in order to match the settings on your computer to the type of paper you use for print.

I also use a Mac, very much problem free to set it up.

You should be able to download ICC profiles onto your computer from the Canon site.

I use Epson Stylus Photo R2400 for mostly 8x11 and for bigger prints I use Epson Stylus Pro 9880, and I went to their site to download all the ICC profiles and it installed flawlessly. When click to print, it shows a listing what type of paper you want to use.

Hope you got it solved....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to all who responded. I do use ICC profiles for all my papers. I do 90% of my printing on Ilford glossy, a great paper for showing fine detail. Whatever was causing the problem is gone now. When I fired up the printer and printed the same shot that was giving me fits last night it printed prefectly. Go figure. Thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Glad its fixed! I was just going to chime in that I have the same printer and generally use the Ilford paper (my favorite) as well as Canon paper. Now I wonder what the issue was, oh well glad its back to good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • Sorry but $200 seems pretty high for that thing to me. Thousands of less expensive alternatives.
    • Looks like a great project.  A DYI froth pak for $500 or so will do 12 sq ft at 1" thick.  Most home improvement stores carry these.  
    • I got a set of FXR FLoating bibs on clearance from the place in Rush City that goes along with my jacket I bought last year. It is really warm and lite.
    • Nilight Led Light Bar 2PCS 18w 4" Flood Driving Fog Light Off Road Lights Boat Lights driving lights Led Work Light SUV Jeep Lamp,2 years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY3YLCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Pj75zbQ34AMAQ
    • Last weekend I switched out my ramp door for a bay window.  I'd like to spray foam it, but I'm sure I won't be able to find anyone willing to do it professionally in my area, at least not at a reasonable price.  Last winter I had to drive an hour and a half to get the rest of it spray foamed for about $2000.  One company told me they wouldn't fire up their equipment for less than 1800. For this small of an area I'm thinking I would be just fine with the foam boards @ 2-3/4" thick with the furring.  Otherwise, does anyone know how well those Menards Froth Packs work?  $360 still seems kind of spendy to spray foam that little area myself.  
    • That's awesome. I gave mine a test last night and they weren't bright enough. I might have to order some bright lights from Amazon. 
    • Looking good! I also wanted reverse lights. I used some of the really bright light bars from Amazon on mine.  
    • I would fur it out another inch, then spray foam and finish to the furring strips.  No vapor barrier needed at that point.
    • Use 1x2 (actually 3/4"x1 1/2") PVC trim boards for firring strips on the face of studs. The PVC won't absorb any moisture and works well as a thermo break from the aluminum studs. They can be found at any of the big box lumber stores.
    • Moisture is likely condensing on the metal studs and being transferred to the paneling. Furring strips will probably be the best bet with metal studs. You can run them horizontal or vertical and then just attach the paneling to that. I personally wouldn't use a vapor barrier. Some guys do though. 
  • Our Sponsors