Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
ssaamm

My Yamaha died--help!!

13 posts in this topic

I just bought a crestliner 1750 fishhawk. The first time I had it out on the water I ran into trouble. I had it down about 3/4 throttle, slowed down, and then I couldn't go any faster than 4mph in forward or reverse. Very frustrating, especially when the dealer wasn't exactly friendly or appreciative of the business, but that's another story. I assume the throttle cable or something like it is loose or broken. This is a new boat. Should I expect this to be a freebie as far as repair. Thanks for any input.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your first trip with the rig, YES, they should do something for you. Whether or not they will is another story.

Could you describe in a little more detail the symptoms of the problem?

Is the throttle stuck and hard to move? Does it move freely with no response? Does the motor bog or miss when throttle is applied?

What year and HP is this engine? I assume its a console steer with remote.

------------------
Good fishing,
UJ
unitedjigsticker@aol.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the response. It's a brand new 2003 Yamaha 90hp-console. The throttle moves freely- all the way down F or R with no change in rpm's or speed. It's like it engages in gear at the lowest possible level and nothing more.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It sounds like the throttle cable popped off either at the motor or control box.. but if it's brand new take it back to the dealer regardless of the experience you had... it should be covered as they are the ones who rigged it. Did you get a new control box & cables (shift & throttle) when they rigged it?

You might be lucky and it just popped off (they forgot to put the cotter pin in) back by the motor which should be easy to spot - take the hood off and follow where the throttle cables run into the motor and check if everything is connected. If it isn't it's probably in the control box which is a bit more work...

marine_man

[This message has been edited by marine_man (edited 08-29-2003).]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its most likely the linkage as described above. Take it back to the dealer. Be firm but respectful with them. Should be no charge. Might want to have check the shift linkage too while they're in there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it does not shift until the throttle is almost down I agree , linkage .

Things must be pretty good in the boat business if you can turn away a customer that just spent $ 16,000 .

Agreed , they rigged it they should have a "little" pride in their work.

I am sure they spent a great deal of time talking service B4 the sale, now is time for them to STEP UP .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If they don't fix it, I would get on the horn to BOTH Crestliner and Yamaha. The squeeky wheel gets the greese.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the feedback. The service dept. guy was quick and very helpful compared to the owner/manager. Evidently, a plastic linkage broke. He fixed it quickly and said he hadn't seen that happen very often. He even said to "Have a nice day!" So, I guess I have faith in the system again. Go Twins!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did he say where the linkage was located ?
(Motor or Control Box)
Just curious , being parinoid I would like to check mine out and possibly carry a spare.
Plastic in a shift cable or throttle cable sounds prone to breakage .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh I forgot to ask what motor do you have ?
Make/ Model , HP , 2 or four stroke ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The linkage was located in the motor on the passenger side. It was easy to see. It was probably about 1/2 the size of a credit card. I have a 90hp 4stroke '03. Since the repair it has worked like a charm. I am thinking the same thing. Having a spare on hand may not be a bad idea. It didn't look too complex to tinker with. Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine is also a F90 Yamaha .

Thanks for the information. I will check mine tonight.

A spare may be in order !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • i'll come hell ya leech!!!!!!!!!!!
    • Bureaucrate-   Correctly me if I'm wrong, weren't you a huge advocate against AIS lawd and allowing the DNR to pull over fishermen and boats for an inspection? But you are okay with them pulling over deer hunters?    Sounds like anything they do, you are against. If they said black, you'd say white...
    • The 2016 Libertarian Party is Starting! Started by Big Dave2, April 12, 2015   Is this post even relative anymore or has it ever really been? May as well just delete it and save some site Band width!
    • Same circuit as the freezer?!! Oh no no no......!!! They kick in at the same time, and  *TRIP* Always have the pump on a separate circuit!!  As mentioned, GFCI is what code calls for, but sometimes dampness will pop one, rare, but I've seen it happen. I nixed the GFCI on mine when I ran a separate circuit for just the pump. That should solve your problem. 
    • I am from Richland Center.
      I have 2 2500 stradics in dis-repair.
      Both bales refuse to return to closed.
      Heard it may be simple as a spring.
      I am kinda cheap….if costs a lot to fix i will buy new reel. Anyone know somewhat local repair person that is reasonable?
    • Well you can't drink all day if you don't start in the morning.  
    • Another one thawing.  made this one for my nephew but will keep it for me. So will have another one in the brine in a couple days. 
    • It's a little early to be hitting the bottle don't you think?  Believe in Trump and you'll feel better.
    • Ok I'll save you from dying. Where can i pick it up? 
    • I use to work on all aluminum body fire trucks.  The only screw, bolt, washer, or nut that we would use was stainless steel as the by using anything else will allow electrolysis to start from dissimilar metals and corrode.  Only problem was the strength of the SS is not as high as regular steel.  Also if you are using SS, i would only use bees wax as a lube.  I use to buy it in a block, and just rub the threads on the screw before putting in the hole.  If you don't, you may find that the threads gall up and strip out.  Then you have issues cause it can be tough to drill out a broken SS screw.  If you have a bunch to do, i found that a combination drill/tap was very useful.  It will drill the hole and tap at one shot.  Here is what they look like.  Good luck. http://www.graybar.com/store/en/gb/combination-drill-tap-bits-22082167?cm_mmc=pla:google-_-googleshopping-_-gb5349-_-22082167&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Graybar>PLA>Category&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=fto6JW9w|pcrid|49843833890|pkw||pmt|&gclid=CPzt0MP72tACFYKSfgodC4MH_g
  • Our Sponsors