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      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
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Bobcatbeej

homemade portable

Question

Has anyone here built a portable? I'm thinking about building one here soon and have checked out some plans online. Does anyone else have ideas for doing this? I don't need real specifics, just some ideas and places to look.

Thanks
Blake

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I built one made out of 1/4 or 1/8 plywoood. It was a shipping crate that was 5x7. I was able to set it up in 5 minutes alone. But it was quite heavy. Never had to worry about the wind.

One thing I would suggest is before you build one take a look at the ones around. See whats on the lake. You can probably get a good idea of how you want to do it. And then make sure you make it to how you want it.

They have plans for sale on HSOList but I don't think it's worth it.

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If you're put off by the price of most portables, but can afford a little, you might check out the kit that Cabela's sells for around $100. You just supply the plywood floor, some 2x2's, and handyman skills. I saw one set up at the retail store here in town and they're pretty nice and quite spacious. It's not on a sled, so it wouldn't be as "portable" unless you could put runners on it or something. And it'll weigh a little more than others with the plywood, but not that much. Not a bad price for what you get and the effort you'd save over starting from scratch.

------------------
Best FISHES,
Matt

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same here bob, send me a email and I'll send you back some pics of mine.
big_fish_guy@yahoo.com
I built a 6'x8'6". the 6 inches comes from the fact I double hinged mine so there is no ridge in the middle of the floor. Everything I used I got from the lumber store, used electrical conduit for poles. The one thing that Idid get special was the little clips that allow you to attach the horizontal poles to the vertical ones. I purchased them from canvas craft. They make it pretty slick to setup. I decided to build my own because there was nothing out there that I liked. plus i wanted one without the middle ridge. cost me about $100 for materials, and $250 to get the canvas on it.
John

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I built my own 4x8. Both ends fold down. And used some conduit to hold everything up. I built this baby to last! And its heavy, warm. To my surprise, building your own ends up costing about the same when you get everything down. But I'm happy I did because I got everthing customized just he way i want it. The canvas is part that sets you back the most. But I got mine from SIS upholstry in Saint cloud. And they sold me my chunk for 110 bucks. Its built like a brick ...............!

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I dont know what style 0f portable you are looking to build but I built a fish trap style portable for myself a bout 3 years ago. It works really good but I have always been too cheap to buy the canvas for it so I never completrly finished it. I just used tarp in place of the canvas. It worked alright but I would have liked to had canvas or some other lighter material. I bought a fish trap guide this year but still plan on utilizing the homemade jobbie by makink it smaller and using it when I just want to walk out alone and want a super light weight package. If you happen to want any details about mine I would be happy to share them, but I realize this may not be what you were looking for.
Dave
Davewatkins3@netzero.net

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One of my portables 7x9.The two end are
plywood which folds down, hind with rubber
belting. Once the end are down you fold it
in half the other way.It ends up about 12"
thick and slide between the wheel wells
in my full size, short box with tale gate
close.
My other house is 5x7. The two end wall
are plywood which fold down,then I'll slide
the house on top of wheel wells.
I use 3/8 plywood for walls and flooring
with no trim. Make sure you use canvis and
not the blue trap.
If you have 8' box you can make them 9'x9'
and 5'x9'
Good luck

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Tuna - Do you have a picture of your 7x9? I am interested in how you made it all work?

Thanks

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folk2000

Sorry I don't have a digital camera. The
trick is the belting. You need to cut the
plywood down.If your truck box is 6.5'
long, cut 2 sheets 6'long, 3'6" width, for
the floor. Then the belting cut 6'L X 2'W.
Screw the belting between the two sheets, thats your floor. For your end walls cut
4 sheets 6'2" tall, 3'6" width. Lay one end
wall down screw 6'2"x2' belting between the two sheets. To tie end wall to floor, cut two belting 3'6"x6". Butt the end wall up to the floor leaving 6" between, tie together with belt. Do the same with other side. To fold, bring one end wall down, then the
other end wall. Then fold the flooring in
half.
Sorry, hope you can picture this. It makes
a great proable house. It set up very fast.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Thank you for the responses. I do know it’s a right of wayband not blockable...except...I seen one coming and did park in the area after work this week.  In a split second she/he turned around and went the other way. My truck would fill the approach but I only had the car that day.—this response is what I’m trying to avoid. knoppers-there was no bank there...there were little dots through the snow that was pulled back onto the driveway. Heck, he was up near the tree line. Wanderer-it’s a small rural area, I’ll be the ... The snow and ice is melting down to the tar today, they drove in it anyway. It’s 130 am and ya...time for jumping. Thanks for all the answers. I don’t feel alone in feeling it’s rude. That helps. 
    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
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