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Mugsaway

walleye rigs

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Hey there,

I have just started to make my own rigs and have a question for those out there that do this.

Where are you getting you beads, hooks, blades? Is there a place on the web you get these items at a decent price or are you just going to the store? What store - craft, fishing?

Thanks for your responses.....

Troy

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Beeds I get at a local craft store like Micheals and all the rest I get at Hagens. If your not going to make hundreds or thousands it may be better for you just to buy at the above listed places. Lots of baitstores sell beeds by the thousands and blades in bulk. Buy your hooks in at least 100 packs.

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I've been making some of these too, what test line do you typically use for these? I'll be tying some up this winter to take to Canada next year, but I need to get line...Any suggestions on what has worked well or what to stay away from as far as line goes? Thanks!

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thorne bros had a good selection of blades when I checked that place out for the first time last week.

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what test line do you typically use for these?

I like 12-15lb for spinners. If you use a big blade, maybe go to 20lb even. Stiffer the better IMO.

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Originally Posted By: Ace
what test line do you typically use for these?

I like 12-15lb for spinners. If you use a big blade, maybe go to 20lb even. Stiffer the better IMO.

Pretty much the same as I use. This generally isn't a finesse approach. Light lines just don't hold up and will either weaken or twist with spinners. I also use bigger hooks with #2-6 depending on whether it's a single hook or crawler harness.

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12-20# line depending on what type. I like Trilene Xt and Big Game but there are a lot of good lines that will work. I got some P line real cheap and thats working out good as well. You dont need to get real fancy as far as line. Something clear and abrasion resistant is what I look for.

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I normally use bottom bouncers when I fish with a spinner, and typically use 10 pound fireline. I tie all my spinners with 8 pound mono. My logic being that if I get snagged up and have to break my line, I'd rather lose just the spinner than my bottom bouncer also.

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The big online auction site is a pretty good place to find blades in quantity (10-30) without the per hundred or per thousand that some mail order or online retailers have as minimums.

WOW! Is all I have to say about line choices posted here. I started making my own spinners because of the heavy cheap line found on pre-made product. Also, if you fish Mille Lacs, you won't find pre-made long enough.

I tie mine with 6-8, maybe 10 lb. test florocarbon. Because floro sinks, I inflate my crawlers or add floats inline on my single hook rigs for minnows and leaches. I can't remember the last time a walleye broke me off. With a high quality ball bearing swivel, the line twists some, but has a point of equilibrium where the swivel keeps up with the line twist and the twist gives the line its stiffness.

All that said. I don't spend much time "trolling" my rigs. Drift/control drift or slow troll is my SOP. So, more of a finesse technique. Tying my own means I don't mind losing one. However, I hate losing my swivel and sinker, so my spinner must be "weaker" than my main line. I can tie five spinners for the cost of one swivel.

Back to the original intent of the post . . .

Retailers are very expensive for anything but small quantity experimentation. You can get the rigs you want, but you can't save money this way. If you are going to get "involved" in this pastime / hobby, you MUST find other sources.

Online or catalog sellers offer the best pricing, but are impractical unless you want to make LOTS of spinners. My best two sources have been to split orders from Hagans among several others or go with The big online auction site. Check out The big online auction site - sporting goods - fishing - tackle craft

You can tie a mess of spinners during football season.

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Another thing I prefer to use is the plastic clevis's/clasps that hold the spinner blade, as opposed to the copper ones. With the copper ones, your stuck with the blade that you tie on there originally. And with the plastic ones, you can change blades as often as you'd like without having to retie or put a different spinner on.

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I also like the quick exchange clevis on my blades. Comes in very handy to change out colors and sizes as well as types.

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How about length? I make some shorter ones (about 24"), some medium ones (about 36") and some longer ones (about 50"). Is there any need for these different lengths or am I wasting line by tying shorter ones?

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Most of the spinner rigs I tie run 4-7 feet. I do run spinners as short as 2 feet at times though. At times the shorter rigs are more effective. As with live bait rigs the shorter the rig the more control you have over the livebait. The longer the rig the more the livebait struggles and does it's thing. The shorter the rig the more the rig acts like a jig.

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Another thing I prefer to use is the plastic clevis's/clasps that hold the spinner blade, as opposed to the copper ones. With the copper ones, your stuck with the blade that you tie on there originally. And with the plastic ones, you can change blades as often as you'd like without having to retie or put a different spinner on.

I agree. And I will add that the copper or stainless ones slowly eat away at your mono if you're lucky enough not to lose it after a day or two. The plastic ones are much easier on the leader.

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I use both the plastic and the metal folder clevis'. Seems that the folded metal ones spin better at slower speeds so I have some made up for just that purpose.

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Depends on water clarity. In stained waters (St. Louis River)around here I run as short as 2' but in clear water like Lake Superior I will run as long as 7'.

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