BoxMN Posted May 5, 2009 Author Share Posted May 5, 2009 Surface Tension, I tried to look all over, but can't find the measurement for the float distance, or how to measure it even. I will try to hit library to see if they have a manual tomorrow. I can't find anywhere that has manual without it taking 2 weeks or else $50 shipping to get it here... doh. Oh well. I can find the diagrahms of the carb online, but no specs. I will try my dealer tomorrow possibly too, he should be able to helk me.Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surface Tension Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 OK I'll try and explain it. Per your picture, flip the carb over. The float should be sitting parallel to the carb body with even space between the float and carb body. Bend the hinge to adjust. When bending don't bend it against the needle. Now flip the carb over with the float hanging. If everything is correct from the above procedure then the following should be good.The lowest point of the float to the carb body is where you measure. I only have documentation up to 1992 but that measurement is 1 1/8-1 5/8. Here are some variables. Replacement parts and a know issue of not enough fuel. For that reason I would opt towards the increased float drop. Interesting story as I was working on an outboard last night with almost the same symptoms. In this case the outboard would get the boat on plane with plenty of power then drop off. Definite fuel shortage. Tried two different hoses and combination's of the onboard tank and a remote tank with the same results. Changed all the hose clamps, 6 clamps per hose. The new hose with new clamps had the same results. The old hose with new clamps worked and the outboard ran as should on both the remote and onboard tank. Problem solved and the answer wasn't a new hose. The old hose was sucking air but no fuel leakage as the primer bulb was brought up to pressure. The new hose has an internal problem and most likely a faulty bulb or restriction in the line. Before you take this carb apart make sure you have a good hose.If you do end up taking this carb apart make sure your high speed jet is clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxMN Posted May 5, 2009 Author Share Posted May 5, 2009 Thanks much Frank, I follow what you are saying. I am pretty sure my float arm is bent wrong now that I understand it, as I straightened it out.... doh... I will try the hoses again, I have three to try from now... One last question, I have to take the starter off on the motor to get the port side carb nut off. If you can recall, can I just losen the starter enough but leave it "Connected" where it connects to the throttle assembly? That is the only real tough or intricate part, and since I will be doing it over water, I would hate to lose those little thin pieces that allow the throttle assembly to swivel (on the port side, just behind the starter). Thanks a ton! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surface Tension Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 That I'm not sure about. Plus your asking someone that thinks a hammer and chisel are a special tool to spin nuts that can't be reached with a socket or wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxMN Posted May 5, 2009 Author Share Posted May 5, 2009 Thanks Frank, I just might try the hammer and chisel route... I think it would be quicker and safer in the end doing it over the water. I appreciate all the help from you all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxMN Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 FYI - stupid user errors made on my part... First, I "DID" put the float in upside down... I saw when I took it back off. Easy fix. But... when I was putting carb back together I was doing it on the dock, and not a clean mat, and I must have got some crud in there somewhere, as when I started it up, it would run WOT fantastic, but it would not idle at all... so after much swearing and non-changing idle adjustments and calls to my mechanic friend and after a new set of plugs... I screwed out the jet and carried down a compressor and blew it out and after that, it is running like new. I learned a lot on this little project, how to troubleshoot lean and rich and spark, and mainly how it is usually the simplest thing that causes the problem and the simplest solution is usually the right solution. Doh! I'm about $130 into this, and it probably only needed a shot of air to start with, ha! I am dumb, but a bit smarter now Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatfixer Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 good to hear you are back in action Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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