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Gear check, outfitting for LoTW


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Hi folks,

A friend and I will be making our first trip to LOTW in July and I want to make sure I have my bases covered with rods/reels/lines such that I'm not sitting in the boat wishing I had something I don't.

I have a single downrigger (should I get a second?), and planer boards. I have a good idea what to use with those when Muskie fishing, not so much with Walleyes. I just got the Precision Trolling book (plus downrigger book) and noticed they have everything with 10/4 in mind (or 10# mono).

Current Walleye-specific gear:

6'8" Shimano Crucial CRSD68ML spinning, Stradic 2500

7' Shimano Crucial CRCD70M caster, Daiwa SG17LCA, 14# Stren Superbraid (same diameter as 10/4)

7' Lamiglas XMG 50 EXS702 spinning, Stradic 2500

6' Shimano Compre jigging (closer to 5'8" after tip broke off)

I have a Daiwa Accudepth+ 17LC and I need to figure out what line to put on it. I don't think any of my current rods really match well with a downrigger or planer (?). So I was thinking I would get a rod something with those in mind. I probably won't get the rod until I'm in MN, since I don't want to ship anything twice. If I have a rod in mind, then I will better know what to spool the reel with (softer rod -> braid, stiffer rod -> Gamma, right?), keeping in mind I'd like it to be easily compatible with the Precision Trolling book without too much conversion. Also I read here braid doesn't work so well with planer/downrigger releases (I got some Walker releases for the downrigger, regular Offshore light line release on the planers).

So I need at least one casting rod for trolling. I think I have jigging/rigging covered, yes? Anything else I should think about?

When trolling cranks with 10/4 or similar, do you still tie on a leader with a Uni, or use a small swivel, or tie directly to the crank? Do you change it up with a rigger or planer?

Thanks, Walleye peeps!

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Where are you going on the lake? If you're fishing the South end of the lake you'll be fine without a downrigger. Rapala taildancers get plenty deep if you longline, use leadcore or snapweights. Leave the planer boards at home. Whatever rods you have will be fine. Lake of the Woods isn't a science like other lakes, it's power fishing where types of lines don't make too much of a difference outside of your personal preference. Myself, I use a St. Croix avid 6'3 with 8 or 10 lbs fireline to take care of my jigging. If trolling cranks, I don't really care what kind of rod set-up I'm using as long as it's decent, having a line counter is the key there.

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Baudette, staying at Ballard's. I'll be driving to Morson every other day or so for Muskie action. Though my buddy often tires out and wants to switch to Walleyes after a few hours.

That said, I'll probably hit Lake St. Croix and some Bemidji-area lakes as well. May even try Leech and Mille Lacs...I have a few weeks to kill smile

I'm just allowing for maybe not wanting to leave LoTW once I get there.

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I've never fished LOTW in July so I can't give you much help in that regard, but scroll down to the regional forums to the Lake Of The Woods forum. You should be able to get a lot of good info from the guys in there. Good luck and have a great trip.

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PDXFisher, first of all if you broke your Shimano, just bring it back and they will replace it on the spot. Second, I am in the same spot as you, only I am going to LOTW for 6 days over labor day weekend. I will be hitting up the walleyes and muskies as well. My list is very similar, I just have a lot more rods. I have never used down riggers or planner boards, so I cannot help you there, but I know guys love using them up there. Good luck and let me know what works.

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Well, I just got two more casting rods since I live about 20 miles from the Lamiglas factory store (1/2 off, woot!). One is a softer 8'6" ML 6-10lb and a 7' 2pc M. I figured I would use the long soft rod with braid and the shorter, stiffer one with a Curado 200 with 10# Gamma.

I also have some GLoomis GL2s that I think are a little too stiff (6'6" MH, 8-12lb and 10-17lb). They're fine for Walleye out here, since you need at least a 3oz walker to have a chance to get the rig on the bottom on the Columbia with its crazy current. Most people use Steelhead gear for Walleye out here. Makes sense, the Walleye are often bigger than the Steelhead.

Regarding Shimano...they take it back, if you save the receipt. I bought it at the goose place, it broke before ever using it, literally when I was stringing line through the guides for the first time. Problem is, I was leaving back to Portland the next day. I shipped it to Portland, but replacing it requires a store having one of the same model to swap for. In Oregon and Washington, 6' single piece jigging rods aren't popular. No swap available to me there. I shipped it back to MN, so tried to go back to the goose place and swap it with them last December. They refused without the original receipt. I had stores in Oregon willing to do it without receipt even knowing that I bought it elsewhere, but the goose place isn't so nice that way. I just put another tip on, it's fine. The Crucials feel way better, anyway.

I actually bought the downrigger to do video trolling for Muskies. If I can catch Walleyes with it, more the better! I may come back for labor day as well...

Thanks for your help!

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Well, I just got two more casting rods since I live about 20 miles from the Lamiglas factory store (1/2 off, woot!). One is a softer 8'6" ML 6-10lb and a 7' 2pc M. I figured I would use the long soft rod with braid and the shorter, stiffer one with a Curado 200 with 10# Gamma.

I also have some GLoomis GL2s that I think are a little too stiff (6'6" MH, 8-12lb and 10-17lb). They're fine for Walleye out here, since you need at least a 3oz walker to have a chance to get the rig on the bottom on the Columbia with its crazy current. Most people use Steelhead gear for Walleye out here. Makes sense, the Walleye are often bigger than the Steelhead.

Regarding Shimano...they take it back, if you save the receipt. I bought it at the goose place, it broke before ever using it, literally when I was stringing line through the guides for the first time. Problem is, I was leaving back to Portland the next day. I shipped it to Portland, but replacing it requires a store having one of the same model to swap for. In Oregon and Washington, 6' single piece jigging rods aren't popular. No swap available to me there. I shipped it back to MN, so tried to go back to the goose place and swap it with them last December. They refused without the original receipt. I had stores in Oregon willing to do it without receipt even knowing that I bought it elsewhere, but the goose place isn't so nice that way. I just put another tip on, it's fine. The Crucials feel way better, anyway.

I actually bought the downrigger to do video trolling for Muskies. If I can catch Walleyes with it, more the better! I may come back for labor day as well...

Thanks for your help!

i just use bottom bouncers up there at that time of year. or, and you'll like them, use those small mini divers. they get down and out away from the boat. i like those better than my boards

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i just use bottom bouncers up there at that time of year. or, and you'll like them, use those small mini divers. they get down and out away from the boat. i like those better than my boards

Mini divers? What are those? Jet Planers?

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Originally Posted By: tacklejunkie

i just use bottom bouncers up there at that time of year. or, and you'll like them, use those small mini divers. they get down and out away from the boat. i like those better than my boards

Mini divers? What are those? Jet Planers?

no. big jon mini divers.its like a small dipsey with no release. you can turn it to plane down and out or just down. they have 2 sizes. the smaller can dive down to 30 feet the other down to 50. dives well with fireline

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PDXFisher, if you are talking about Gander, I used to work at their headquarters in marketing. If you complain enough they will take anything back. I took heavily used rain gear back after years of use because they were leaking. I did not have a receipt. It has nothing to do with the retailer. The retailer just turns around and sends it back to Shimano for a credit.

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