Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

A good beginner bow


Recommended Posts

almost an imposible question to answer, A few more questions need to be thought about here. As one bow may shoot great for one person the same exact bow will not shoot for another. A persons height is a huge concern. I am 6ft 3in, and have a huge wing span, 31.5" draw length. Short A to A bows dont work well for me but may be perfect for you!

I myself would stick to the major companies. Hoyt, Martin, Mathews... to be honest they dont produce a bad bow. So any from them that feels confortable to you would be great. Its all in how much you want to spend. I, this last winter spent about $750 for just a bow... which I didn't think was too bad...My boat (Triton Tr186PDC)cost me about $18,000 used... and my new Bike(Trek1500) just cost me over $1000.. its all in what you enjoy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Step one, don't worry about what brand to buy. Go to an Archery Pro Shop that deals exclusively with Archery equipment, not a sporting goods store where the person in the "archery" dept. may or may not have alot of experience. Most of the bows available are of about the same quality as the more expensive bows so you don't need to spend big bucks to get started.
The Archery pro shop will get you fitted to the bow, making sure that YOU know your draw length, draw weight (how much you can pull, don't over do the weight, it's better to start a lower than the max. you can pull so you can control the shot comfortably) and help you decide which arrows and point weights to use so the arrows fly well from the bow. A good shop will take the time to help you and won't try to get you to buy the top of the line bows they sell. Look up the Easton Tuning guide available at the Easton Archery HSOforum online. Read through it. It will give you a good idea of basic bow set-up which is something good to know so you don't have to run to the shop whenever you have a problem. I can send you an article I wrote on selecting equipment if you give me your email adress.

Best of Luck! Once you start shooting, you'll be hooked!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree that the best bow for you is the one that fits you best. I do have a few suggestions though. If you are of average hieght, and build, for a beginner a longer axle to axle will probably be the best to start out with. Longer bows generally have longer brace heights (the distance between the point where your arrow nocks on the string and where your hand cradles the grip). Brace heights help for accuracy and forgivability. Generally these bows are a bit slower but this is perfect for those just starting out. You don't need speed to take down game. Also, I reccomend shooting with a release aid. This also helps with accuracy and is easier on the fingers. Very important: don't buy a bow at a department store. I bought my very first bow at a department store and couldn't get it to shoot strait. I brought it to a pro shop and found that it had 2 differant limbs, and a riser from another bow. Also, you don't need an expensive bow. Many people buy packages that include the bow, a sight, arrows, ect. Just about everything you need. Most importantly I reccomend going to a reputable archery pro shop. If you would like the name/number of the one I go to shoot me an e-mail, [email protected]. I'm not sure I can post it here or not. Most of all, have fun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i think an anrchery shop is also the best place to start, where bouts are u from? i live in wadena 30 minutes from the nearest actual bow shop, but the one in parkers prairie. John is a great guy and will give you a great deal on every thing.

------------------
this is just my 2 cents
Pooh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another tip, when you go to a bow shop, take someone with bow experience that you can trust with you. They can give you some ideas on what you need to get and what you don't. A tip on the bow packages, carefully inspect the components of the package. A friend recently bought a bow "kit" (bow, rest, sight included) and the sight was a cheap piece that cracked after about 2 dozen shots. Metal parts is the way to go because they won't flex or crack under extreme weather conditions or simply shooting. Best of Luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


My Bass Pro catalog has a PSE Nova Hunter package - bow, fiber optic sight, rest, and quiver for $199. Not a bad package to start out with. I agree with the others, going to a good archery shop is worth the time and advice, but sometimes they don't have what you want or all they have is $500 bows.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.