Jump to content


we are 'the leading edge' I Share on HSO
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About simplefish

  • Rank
    Sr IceLeaders.com Family
  • Birthday 01/04/1984

Profile Information

  • Location:
    Princeton, MN
  1. The first year we went we bought a larger map of camp ripley that they were selling there. The red zones are areas that the base doesn't want you to enter, for whatever reason. If this is your first year going I suggest a taking along a GPS, or at least a good compass. You'll need it. I know...
  2. I tried thunderheads a couple years ago, 100g pro's and was losing blades in my 3D just after I had sighted them in. I thought that maybe I just had a bad batch or something but the guy at the pro shop told me he had the same problem. I tried muzzy's last year and they work great. My only problem was keeping them sharp. In my limited expirience it's all about penetration. Kenetic energy is the best way to get it, and to get that you need a well tuned arrow. As for broadheads, this year I'm shooting a 4 blade, 100g Magnus Stinger. It's a cut-on-contact broadhead, just what you need for the best penetration. It has 2 little bleeder blades so there is less drag on your arrow shaft. This thing flies really well, and keeps a good edge. If you are looking for penetration than a good cut-on-contact is the way to go. I don't recommend mechanicals. I tried a number of them and found them to fly well but there was a loss of penetration and if you hit something from the side, like a good quartering away shot it had a tendancy to kick out. They may have fixed this problem in the couple years since I tried them however. I've heard good things about the Montec also. Hope this helps.
  3. The results are in. And I made it. Got the letter in the mail yesterday. It looks like I'll be headed up there on the 2nd weekend of the hunt next month. And yes it is crowded and usually overrun with people... Unless you know where to go that is... I found a spot last year while I was wondering around. I just hope when I look on the map it isn't in the red zone. Good luck out there.
  4. I hunt on a small 40 acre lot much of the early season. There is a marshy area that is surrounded by a band of trees on all sides and on the other side of the trees are corn and soybean fields. I am the only bowhunter that hunts here. I like to use the ground blinds in the band between the marsh and crop fields. I have found that setting up in the corners are best, but have a few natural ones down a few fence rows. Depending on the time of year I will either set up off the crops a good 30+ yards or right on the edge of the field. Most of the ground blinds I use are made up of natural matierial from around the area, usually at least a month in advance. If I use a store bought one I will set it up and hunt it the first day and afterward leave it alone for a week+ so the deer get used to having it around. When you set it up try and throw a few branches and debris around it. This will help with the outline. Also scrape some dirt up around in the inside and outside edges as this will help keep scent contained. And last but not least watch your entrance and exit routes when hunting fields. Good luck! [This message has been edited by simplefish (edited 08-19-2004).]
  5. I agree that the best bow for you is the one that fits you best. I do have a few suggestions though. If you are of average hieght, and build, for a beginner a longer axle to axle will probably be the best to start out with. Longer bows generally have longer brace heights (the distance between the point where your arrow nocks on the string and where your hand cradles the grip). Brace heights help for accuracy and forgivability. Generally these bows are a bit slower but this is perfect for those just starting out. You don't need speed to take down game. Also, I reccomend shooting with a release aid. This also helps with accuracy and is easier on the fingers. Very important: don't buy a bow at a department store. I bought my very first bow at a department store and couldn't get it to shoot strait. I brought it to a pro shop and found that it had 2 differant limbs, and a riser from another bow. Also, you don't need an expensive bow. Many people buy packages that include the bow, a sight, arrows, ect. Just about everything you need. Most importantly I reccomend going to a reputable archery pro shop. If you would like the name/number of the one I go to shoot me an e-mail, [email protected] I'm not sure I can post it here or not. Most of all, have fun.
  6. simplefish


    I am in the market for a new pair of binoculars. I was just wondering if anyone had a favorite or a suggestion on which ones to check out. I will use them mostly for bowhunting, so an 8x32 should be fine, but I was also thinking of a 10x42. Within the range of $150 or less would be great. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance! -Mike
  7. I have used scent blocker for 2 years now and haven't had a deer wiff me yet. I go through everything I can think of to keep my scent down to the lowest possible point. As for the suit, I think that is works just fine... for the first season. Every time you wash it a little of the carbon leaves the suit. I heard that it takes really high heat to recharge the carbon. I used my dryer on the highest setting but I don't think that this works completely. My suit included a jacket, bibs, gloves, baclava, rubber boots, ect. I do all the scent killer stuff and even go so far as taking chlorophil tablets before, and during the hunting season. I wear rubber gloves on my way there and use differant clothing that what I'm hunting in. My point is that carbon clothing isn't perfect. Does it help? Sure. Is it essential? Definately not. Just my 2 cents.
  8. Anyone know of a way to target carp that are feeding on top? I've tried just about everything I can think of. Everything but a flyrod. And seeing as how my hat has a tendancy to "blow away" just as I start my forecast, I'm a little reluctant to give it a shot. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
  9. simplefish


    Quick question: Does anyone have any tips for fishing lakers from shore? I'm relatively new to the game, not having done it before, and would like some info on where to start. Thanks ahead.
  10. Quick question: I was thinking of trying my hand at using a cast net for minnows. Does anyone know of any laws or anything that I need to be aware of before I go ahead and do it? Thanks ahead.
  11. I trap quite often. I use one of those barrel type ones you can get anywhere, with the wholes at eithet end. I throw a piece of bread in there or some crackers and get enough for a days fishing after one night. For leaches I used to use a burlap bag with chicken livers, hamburger (uncooked), or all the little giblets from the inside of a turkey or chicken. Then tie off the end and throw in in. A rocky area with weeds or behind islands with weeds are good spots. The leeches squeeze threw the bag and there you have 'em. For minnows throw the trap in a creek on the edge of a little current or eddy. They congregate there for the increased oxygen. Hope this helps.
  12. simplefish


    I live in Anoka. My grandmother is here from Montana. I have been to all my usual spots to find kitties but haven't had any success. I would like to get her on her first cat while she is here but have no boat. If anyone has an idea of a place on shore to plop a line in I would be grateful. I have tried cutbait, stinkbait, live minnows, and worms for mister kitty. I have tried the C.R. dam, where the rum and missy meet, and a few places down river of Anoka on the missy. Nothing seems to work. If anyone can help me out I would be very grateful. Thanks ahead.
  13. Last year I used a lot of stink bait and tubes for channels, coupled with 3/0 circles for channels, wide gap if I could find them. I tried the eagle claw ones and found that they don't have enough "circle" and still ended up gut hooking fish. But VMC and Daiichi makes good ones. With cut bait though I like a good kahle or shiner hook. And I always pinch the barb.
  14. I agree. The palomar is one of the strongest easiest knots to tie. I also like the san diago jam which I learned while visiting an uncle in California. It's tough to tie a trilene or imp. clinch with a super line. They never really seat right. The three knots I use the most are: the arbor knot for tying onto the spool, the palomar for tying to hook or jig, and the double uni for tying super line to mono. All these knots are simple to tie and very strong. I also recommend using pliers to tie with braid and not teeth, and a sharp knife as nail clippers just won't "cut it."
  • Create New...