Building my first permanent shack

[JimJim]

Well I've finally decided to build my first permanent shack. I will post some pictures tonight. I have the floor almost done and one wall started.

Before I can but the sheeting on the floor I have to decide where the holes will go. I'm building an 8x7 shack. Do most of you just put a hole in each corner or is there another way that works better?

Thanks,

Jim

[muskyhunter57]

Depend on what your after and if your planning on bunks.

[David Kasten]

how do you build fold down bunks?

[JimJim]

The shack will be for panfish and walleye. I will not have bunks in the shack at all.

[gizmoguy]

If you get a set of catch covers you can cut the holes at anytime. You just have to locate between the studs. becarful about holes in the corners. make sure that you have room to cut youe holes with a power auger. Sometimes the handles get in the way if to close to the walls. Thats one reason to get a nils master.

[RonWBasser]

Built mine for last season, it was 6x10. I put 4 holes along one of the 10ft walls. The door and just the 2 corner holes on the other 10ft side. My wall mount heater went in the middle of the 10ft wall with the 4 holes.

My frame for the floor was planned out ahead so all of the holes were framed in, then I just jig sawed them out to the framing. They are all square, the corner ones are 18x18 and the middle 2 along the wall were 16x16. My eskimo fits in all of the holes and can drill them without hitting the walls.

If I did it again I would use a nu-way stove with a real stove pipe out the top instead of the remington wallmount heater that I used.

I can post a pic of the floor if you'd like.

Good luck!

[RonWBasser]

With 8ft walls I would opt for 3 holes on those sides, you can always cover them if not being used. It also depends on where you put the door. I used one of my holes for my aqua-vu. On the picture you can see my floor sheeting under it before it was attached to the top of it. I also made the frame for the floor out of 1x6 treated wood which keeps it strong and light.

[BassMan25]

JimJim,

We recently built an ice fishing house rental for our resort. We are not experts and I'm sure some people will question the design and layout, but if nothing else it is functional. Instead of doing individual holes, we cut out holes that will fit 2 holes each.

I have pics posted here: http://thunderlakelodge.com/blog/

Let me know if you have any questions. I'd be more than happy to give my input.

Good luck with your project.

[JimJim]

Thanks for all the quick responses. This is what I got so far. I still haven't made up my mind on the holes but will figure that out soon. Seeing some of these will definately help me figure out what I want to do.

[RonWBasser]

BassMan25,

Hey that one looks really nice. Is that skids I see under it? I think mine needs those too. How did you do them? Were they part of the floor as it was being built or added after. What are they made of.

That's the same wall mount heater I have, does is work ok for you?

Thanks!

[RonWBasser]

JimJim,

Make sure it fits out the garage door before you go any further.

[BassMan25]

BassMan25,

Hey that one looks really nice. Is that skids I see under it? I think mine needs those too. How did you do them? Were they part of the floor as it was being built or added after. What are they made of.

That's the same wall mount heater I have, does is work ok for you?

Thanks!

Because of the weather this week, I havent yet got it on the ice. I'm hoping to get it out this weekend.

It is on skis. We used 2 x 8 material for them and angle cut both ends for better movement and so we are able to pull it from both ends. We also wrapped metal flashing around the bottoms for less friction and easier pulling with our ATV. We built the floor frame into the skis first and then built our walls from there. To lessen the weight load, we built the walls with 2 x 2's, 16" on center. We used 2 x 4's on the corners for added strength. Again, we had never done this before, so we were learning on the run. Don't take our methods as gospel.

The heater is great and very efficient.

I will also echo your statement about making sure you leave yourself enough space to get it out of the garage. The overhang of the metal siding on the roof gave us a little difficulty getting it out because we really didnt account for it. Make sure you give yourself at least 6" of accounted extra room to be safe.

Also, I physically brought my auger into the house and measured the holes with it before I cut them out to ensure I didn't have handle room issues with my auger for drilling.

[RonWBasser]

Quote:

Make sure you give yourself at least 6" of accounted extra room to be safe.

Also, I physically brought my auger into the house and measured the holes with it before I cut them out to ensure I didn't have handle room issues with my auger for drilling.

I left 4" and needed every bit of it. Also I had my auger in there to check clearances before I did any of the holes.

You did very well, planned very well and at looks great. I left the syro on the inside of mine without covering the walls to reduce weight. Also did the 2x2 thing.

The heater (same one) doesn't seem to keep mine warm except the top half. If you sit down it feels about 30 degrees colder. I put a 12v fan above it. But if I get to it, next summer I will insulate the floor. I think that would also help. Might move my heater down a little too.

Great pics, thanks for sharing all the info.

[JimJim]

JimJim,

Make sure it fits out the garage door before you go any further.

It won't fit out of the garage. It's being made as six pieces. All the pieces can come apart so it can be stored in the barn and not take up too much room. Also it's just too darn cold to build it outside right now so when it's all done and painted I'll just take it apart and re-put it together on the trailer outside to take to the lake.

[BassMan25]

I left 4" and needed every bit of it. Also I had my auger in there to check clearances before I did any of the holes.

You did very well, planned very well and at looks great. I left the syro on the inside of mine without covering the walls to reduce weight. Also did the 2x2 thing.

The heater (same one) doesn't seem to keep mine warm except the top half. If you sit down it feels about 30 degrees colder. I put a 12v fan above it. But if I get to it, next summer I will insulate the floor. I think that would also help. Might move my heater down a little too.

Great pics, thanks for sharing all the info.

Like I said, I have yet to fish out of it, so maybe I will encounter the same type of heat problems you are. I hope not, but I now tend to think because of the size of the cutouts that I may have that problem as well. I'll let you know once I get setup.

For insulation, we used foam all the way around too. We gained some significant weight by using the shiplap pine on the interior. I just wanted it to look nice. We also used Tyvek on the exterior, so the unit is actually pretty airtight. We don't have insulation on the floor. Just foam padded outdoor carpet on top of the plywood.

I'm sure I'll find things along the way that I wish I would have done differently. Learning on the run.

[BassMan25]

It won't fit out of the garage. It's being made as six pieces. All the pieces can come apart so it can be stored in the barn and not take up too much room. Also it's just too darn cold to build it outside right now so when it's all done and painted I'll just take it apart and re-put it together on the trailer outside to take to the lake.

That's not a bad idea. Never thought of that. Let me know how the piece idea works for you.

[Sioux#1]

How come those Thunder Lake shacks don't come with an interlocking ND or a Sioux logo?

[JimJim]

I wound up doing the corner thing. In opposing corners I did double holes. Still hard to tell how I'll like it. If fishing with two guys we can each use the double holes and use the single holes for beer coolers.

[landscaper]

for all of you who have build fish houses on skids.........What are your skids usually?? treated? say one-2x8" on the two sides or one more down the middle or two 2x8's on each side?? then do you usually run 2x4's between each skid to hold them together??

[RonWBasser]

JimJim,

Looking good!

[JimJim]

Well I got a little more done. How hard is it to load a shanty on a trailer? This shanty is going to be able to be taken apart but once I get it outside and put back together I'd prefer not having to take it apart everytime. If anyone can explain how they get their shacks onto the trailer for the trip to and from the lake I'd appreciate it.

[DuckBlind]

I am planning on building a 10x7 on skids. Some fellas are telling me that a house on skids is a waste of time. Is it that hard to get on and off the lake? I can't afford a fancy drop down trailer and don't see the big deal in just putting it on skids.

BassMan25 those houses are pretty much identical to the one I want to build. Do you have any pictures from when you were putting them together?

Also, a peaked roof down the center...how do you that? Does anyone have pictures?

JimJim the house looks great so far!

[river-rat4]

Jimjim,

Looks to be an 8X8, is that correct?

Do you have an oversized trailer?

I have an 8X8 sled trailer and was wondering.

RR4

[JimJim]

It's 7x8. I have an 8x8 trailer. Just wondering how hard it's gonna be to get it on the trailer.

[RonWBasser]

Well I got a little more done. How hard is it to load a shanty on a trailer? This shanty is going to be able to be taken apart but once I get it outside and put back together I'd prefer not having to take it apart everytime. If anyone can explain how they get their shacks onto the trailer for the trip to and from the lake I'd appreciate it.

I borrowed a 2 place snowmobile trailer that tilted and it took 3 people to load it. First off, I put handles about a foot up from the bottom on the 4 corners.

With the bed tilted down 2 guys grab the handles on one end and lift it up about a foot off the ground. The 3rd guy now backs the trailer under it a little ways. Now we all stop to breathe. When we are ready again, we 2 on the sides just lift up a little while the other guy backs it past half way under. Now we just put our shoulders against the end still on the ground and slide it up until the trailer starts to tilt back to flat. then just shimmy it the rest of the way forward.

Unloading is easy. We unlatch the pin the keeps it from tilting and give it a push back on the trailer. The trailer will tilt at some point to where the shack is now sitting with one end on the ice. Now just drive the trailer out from under it and it sits down rather softly onto the ice.

Lots of details in there, sorry if it's a long read.