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what weight of oil


7outof10

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I used 10W-30 last winter and it worked fine. This year I put in 5W-30 because they didn't have any 10W-30 so it should be even easier to fire off. I also use mine primarily in the winter but wouldn't run that thin of oil in the summer since the Grizzly's run a tad on the warm side anyway.

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I also use mine primarily in the winter but wouldn't run that thin of oil in the summer since the Grizzly's run a tad on the warm side anyway.

IMO amsoil will protect as well and probably even better than conventional. My last machine was a Yamaha as well. with the yamaha oil I ran in it, the fan ran constantly. I ran 5 30 in the winter and 20 40 in the summer. when I switched to amsoil, it ran less than half the time. I used it for 5+ years with no problems, that thing sold like new when I traded it in!!

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I would say the 0w amsoil it the best oil on the market for ATV's It still flows at like -30 which is key for starting in Winter and protects in hot weather like a 10w-40 would. It is also made specifically for ATVs. I personally love sythetics I run Mobil 1 in my car and truck and Yammy outboard. And amsoil in my JD tractor, snow blower, small mower and my Honda ATV!

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I have a 350 rancher and was told you should not run synthetic in it because of the clutch slipping of something like that. This doesn't sound quite right to me. I run synthetic in everything else I own (boat, cars, trucks augers etc etc.)and I just don't feel right not running it is my 4X4

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The problem is NOT synthetic versus conventional petroleum. Many 4-stroke 4-wheelers today actually prefer synthetic.

The problem is today's automotive motor oils - to get to the "SM", "GF-4" or "CJ4" not only have all oils greatly reduced the zinc/phosphorus levels, but most use friction modifier additives too.

All machines that have a Wet Clutch Must use an oil that has NO Friction Modifiers. The friction modifiers are what causes the wet-clutch problems.

The specification to look for: the label must have a "JASO" spec on the label (MA, MB, MA2, or possibly others). The JASO M-series specs guarantee wet-clutch compatablilty.

The AMSOIL preferred oil: 0W-40 4-stroke PowerSports Oil (product code AFF)

Most of these are common sump engine and transmission, but if yours is separate check the spec for the transmission first - many still take the same oil as the engine, but some of them are special oils. Get me the spec and I will be glad to check it for you.

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I've been Using Amzoil 0-40w in my ATV's for a couple years. One manual clutch, one auto. Yes I made sure it was recommended for wet clutch before I dumped it in. I Notice better starting in the winter, and oil seems to look cleaner between changes. It's around $7/qt but if you only use your machine for sporting, and change it once or twice a year, its not a big deal. Worth it in my opinion.

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The problem is NOT synthetic versus conventional petroleum. Many 4-stroke 4-wheelers today actually prefer synthetic.

The problem is today's automotive motor oils - to get to the "SM", "GF-4" or "CJ4" not only have all oils greatly reduced the zinc/phosphorus levels, but most use friction modifier additives too.

All machines that have a Wet Clutch Must use an oil that has NO Friction Modifiers. The friction modifiers are what causes the wet-clutch problems.

The specification to look for: the label must have a "JASO" spec on the label (MA, MB, MA2, or possibly others). The JASO M-series specs guarantee wet-clutch compatablilty.

The AMSOIL preferred oil: 0W-40 4-stroke PowerSports Oil (product code AFF)

Most of these are common sump engine and transmission, but if yours is separate check the spec for the transmission first - many still take the same oil as the engine, but some of them are special oils. Get me the spec and I will be glad to check it for you.

Thanks oilman. That is kind of what I figured. Mine is a sump engine and trans. Next oil change I am going to switch over the the 0-40 ATV oil. I have run the 0-30 in my truck sense it was new and it has never had to turn over for more than 1 second even in 30+ below. I know it is more expensive but IMO well worth it.

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