STEEL ROOFS

[Huskie]

I am thinking about putting a steel roof on my home this spring, like the looks of the steel shingles that I saw at menards. Does anyone have a good idea about the cost comparision in both materials and laborcompared to 30 year regular shingles. Will be looking at a small conventional rambler with about 1000sq. ft. of roof space and will try some type of cutter cover also. I'm down in south central mn. a rural area by interstate 90. Thanks.

[Roofer]

It seems you are looking for longevity. That being said, I will say this............

Steel.......not for MN or for gutters

Menards........bad

Price will be $500 to $1200 per square installed compared to about $250 for shingles. This depends on how good the contractor is and what material you choose.

[Steve Foss]

Roofer, can you be more helpful? I also have been considering steel. Why is it bad for MN?

[Roofer]

Sorry, I didn't think anyone wanted to hear it. These are my opinions and experiences. Anyone who sells a steel roof probably won't tell you this, but..............

For one, nothing seals, so when water freezes and thaws, it works it's way into the seams on steel.

2. Ice........ever seen ice come off of a steel building? It could easily kill someone, let alone your doors, windows, gutters, anything in it's path.

3. steel needs ventilation between it and the sheathing. Most homes are not made for it. Steel on sheathing will sweat and eventually leak.

Yes, you see steel on commercial roofs, but do you know what they pay for them? Anything can be made to work with the right amount of money. In residential work, you rarely have that luxury to work with.

Steel shingles have been out for a few years now. I have seen a handful, but that's it. For the money on a residential home, shingles are still your best. Shingles can be had that have a warranty better than steel for less money.

[Steve Foss]

Thanks for explaining, man!

[Huskie]

Roofer: Thanks for the reply, I have talkeed with a number of people who would disagree with what you said. However, thanks for your take because I want to consider all sides of this issue before I make the decision. I must also admit, the less the roofing job runs, the sooner I can upgrade my boat for the upcoming season. But I still would like to hear from others who have steel roofs or who have opinions on them.

[Coach Dog]

Roofer,

What about "standing seam" roofs? I see a few of these on homes, but mostly commercial buildings. I'm guessing they aren't cheap, but don't they work well and last forever?

Coach Dog

[Roofer]

 Originally Posted By: Coach Dog

Roofer,

What about "standing seam" roofs? I see a few of these on homes, but mostly commercial buildings. I'm guessing they aren't cheap, but don't they work well and last forever?

Coach Dog

I have read from other roofers that they do work well. I have no first hand knowledge of it though.

Forever??????..........If someone tells you something will last any more than 50 years, you should punch them in the face and call it a day. Steel is painted. It will fade, scratch, and peel on a roof. Nothing lasts forever, except maybe one thing, and that is copper. We all know how that looks after a few years and how much it costs.

[Roofer]

I was wrong, 3 things, copper, stainless, and aluminum. Not sure I would take chances paying high buck on any of those products.

[Steve Foss]

A standing seam steel roof is the one I've been considering. So that's back in the game for consideration.

Nor will I be punching anyone in the face just for saying it'll last forever.

The 50-year rating is the one I've been hearing about. That's certainly a guess (though probably based on accelerated aging research), since I don't believe there are many (if any) standing seam steel roofs out there that are 50 years old.

So as to the durability, it's a bit of a gamble. If they do last 50 years and are twice as expensive as standard 30-year fiberglass shingles, it's about a wash money wise.

[polarsusd81]

Yeah, working in the exterior cladding industry in my former job, I can tell you, Roofer is right. The things he said about the steel roofs are pretty much right on the money. Copper, Stainless and Aluminum will last a long time, but the cost is so high. The steel shingles may look cool, but for the value and dangers, you are better off going with asphalt shingles.

If you were south of the Mason Dixon Line, steel shingles would probably be a pretty decent option, but us yankees need to stick it out with the tried and true construction methods.

[Roofer]

 Originally Posted By: stfcatfish

So as to the durability, it's a bit of a gamble. If they do last 50 years and are twice as expensive as standard 30-year fiberglass shingles, it's about a wash money wise.

I hear ya, but I would say a lifetime warranty (used to be a 50 year) shingle will be about half the cost of a 50 year steel roof. Comparing apples to apples, shingles are still more justified, cost wise.

As for look or your piece of mind, it's still your choice.

[Roofer]

 Originally Posted By: polarsusd81

but us yankees need to stick it out with the tried and true construction methods.

Thanks,

sometimes that is hard to explain to others.

[Steve Foss]

Well, I wasn't considering steel shingles, but the standing seam steel. That being said, my wife and I are into old home restoration/preservation, and the modern look of the SSS has put us off using it.

[dkrusin]

Decra steel shingles have 50 year warranty, hail resistant and rated to 150 MPH wind. Will keep your home cooler in the summer, due to natural ventilation (qualifies for energy credit). They run around $180 to $200 a square vs $85 for a good quality composite(materials only)On existing structures some saving over conventional shingle because you do not need to tear off old shingles. Have a professional install and it will be the last roof you buy. Not a huge deal, but I save about$50 a year on homeowners insurance because of their UL rating. I'm sold, just seen too many 30 year composite shingles last 10 years or less.

[Roofer]

That's true with composite shingles. I don't think there is a company that makes them any more. The new fiberglass shingles have the same fire resistant UL rating.

You r home will not be warmer because of anything on the roof if it is ventilated correctly and proper insulation.

You can get Certainteed Landmark TL shingles that have the same warranty as the decra shingles and for alot less than $180 a square.

I know some companies use these tactics to sell their products, but there is much more to it than what they say.

There is a salesman for everything.

IN MN you do have to tear off old shingles if you are in the high hail area.

Not to put your post down dkrusin, but just stating the facts for everyone.

[dkrusin]

Roofer: I call a composite shingle one that is composed of a fiberglass mat with granules embedded in asphalt. That is what you call the new fiberglass shingle. They are one and the same.

Also, I did not say your house would be warmer, I said it would be cooler. This is not rocket science, the heat from a fiberglass/asphalt composite can go no where except your attic. Ventilation and insulation are very important, but a cooler attic, is a cooler house. If you put on a fiberglass/asphalt composite shingles you better have a well ventilated attic or you'll be testing the 30 year warranty in about 7 to 10 years.

Another advantage is ice daming, many water damage claims this year from people with fiberglass/asphalt composite shingles. Won't happen with Decra, the shingles are locked together and screwed to the underlayment.

I realize there is a salesman for everything and decra shingles are not for everybody, but if you have a nice home and plan on living in it for any length of time the extra cost of decra is a small percentage to your overall investment. If you do some research on this product and talk to some professional installers, I'm sure you will agree.

[Roofer]

There are many types of shingles that are considered composite. I thought you were referring to the old organic shingles.

The ones you say that last 10 years.....there is a ventilation problem. Nothing to do with the shingles.

Ice damming is caused by under-insulated homes and under-ventilated homes. These problems are supposed to be fixed, not put aside and covered up.

Actual some of this is science. Heat cannot travel through a shingle. Ever take some off and feel the temp of the underlayment? It is the same temp as the outside air. Same with a properly ventilated attic. Ideal situation is to have the roof deck and attic at or below outside temps. Yes, the shingles will almost boil in the summer, if and only if the house is not ventilated correctly.

Sorry, I don't agree that a metal shingle is a better product than fiberglass mat asphalt shingles.

Although if that's the look you are going for, it can be a very good option to consider.

[Roofer]

With a poorly ventilated attic, it will not matter what you put on your roof. It will not last it's lifetime.

[Roofer]

Taken from the Decra shingles installation instructions.

------------------------------------------------------------------

In areas subject to ice build-up, a self-adhering modified bitumen sheet shall

be used in lieu of a standard underlayment around the perimeter of the roof

and any other areas prone to ice build-up or as code requires. This protection

should extend from the roof edge to a point at least 36 inches (610 mm)

inside the exterior wall line of the building

-----------------------------------------------------------------

I don't see any advantage in this shingle over a fiberglass mat asphalt shingle in winter weather or ice. The specs are the same, except Decra calls for 3 ft past the warm wall line and fiberglass shingles only call for 2 ft.

Also, Decra only has 120 mph wind warranty and Certainteed has 130 mph wind warranty on their Landmarks. They also offer impact resistant shingles.

[sparcebag]

Sorry for hijacking

[Roofer]

Code is 2 ft.

As for the 4/12 roof and the R38, you are right. Some older homes can't get any insulation there with the birds mouth hand framing rafters, and still have ventilation. That's why you don't see any 4/12 roofs in the last 10 years or so. Even double wides have a 6/12 pitch now.

[dkrusin]

Roofer: How many roofing contractors, pull up, tear off and put down new and leave. Many could care less how well ventilated your roof is, blaming the prior roof lasting only 10 years was due to a poor quaility shingle. A good contractor will address the ventilation problem before they install new shingles. After our little decra/fiberglass debate I'm convinced you one of those good contractors, and I'm guessing your roofs due in fact last 30 years. However, you have not changed my mind on decra, but thats whats on my roof and remember the customer is always right!!

[sparcebag]

[DITTO]

[Roofer]

Sparcebag, that's why they are called energy trusses. Would hand framed trusses pass code as far as energy?