deck staining/sealing-

[chanfish]

I am planning a deck staining and sealing project. I have had this done by "professionals" but seems my cedar deck and its light honey cedar stain does not hold up for more than 1 year. I am thinking of going to darker stain to see if it holds up. Southern exposure here as well. Any recommendations on what product to use? Your experience or recommendation would be great. I guess I would need to strip the old stain off, then clean (or is that one process?) and then apply the new stain. Any suggestions would help me in the lessons learned the hard way category. thanks!!

[Roofer]

Just a question....Was the Cedar able to "dry" before the stain was applied? I think it supposed to set for a year or so before staining, isn't it?

[chanfish]

well it was built in late summer/fall. the guy i contracted this out with came out and cleaned it but did not get back out to seal it until the next spring. i have had it redone but it really only looks good for one year. the next spring it looks like it peels off in places etc. thats why i was going to do it myself with a darker stain.

[MNcanepole]

I think if you pressure wash it and let it dry out, you should be good for stain then.

[Surface Tension]

Use a garden sprayer to apply a deck wash. Then use a bristle scrub brush to clean the area and rinse immediately. You'll have to keep the area your working on small enough that your wash isn't drying or sitting for more then a few minutes.

Basically theres two types of deck stain. One penetrates the wood fibers and one sits on the surface. I'd pick the penetrating type for the reason it won't lift off the surface or peel. Or just waterproof without any pigment. Use the sprayer to apply that and then brush it in.

Having said all that its a matter of what look you want. Some folks like the natural silver look of ceder as it ages. Some want that crisp clean look and water beads.

What ever you choose the deck will need to be thoroughly dry be for any sealers are applied.

[chanfish]

thanks surface. i will go with the penetrating stain. do i need to "strip" away the existing honey stain or will the power wash suffice? i guess i could try to match up the existing stain to keep this manageable and get me out fishing more! also application wise do you use brushes or some kind of applicator that you see at stores for applying the stain?

[Surface Tension]

What type stain (solid or semi transparent) is on there now? There are products other then the deck wash that might be more appropriate depending on the condition of the deck and whats on there. Also choosing a solid over semi transparent might be what your looking for. Personally I go with the semi transparent and normally all thats needed is the wash. Thats assuming your not hiding any damage. Also peeling shouldn't happen with the semi transparent. So after prep and stain coverage is balanced.

The pressure wash will knock off the loose stain but if thats what your trying to do then something like a Stain & Sealer Remover is what you should probably use then followed up by a neutralizer and then a sealer. I'd probably pick a clear sealer then.

[BoxMN]

I don't mean to hijack thread at all, but very related so I don't want to start a new one. If you use green treated how often would you need to use sealer on it? My Dad's has lasted loooong time and I don't think he has sealed it more than a handful of times in 20 years. I want to build deck, but need to keep it cheap and I will never get into the staining cycle - see my brother do it and just shake my head... But I don't want to pay for trex type either. I am cheap and lazy, I guess

Thanks for any info.

[sparcebag]

Box I always use green treated,I think it outlasts all!I let it sit at least a year it will turn a warm brownish,I like the color.I always buy it and let it set all summer before installing for moisture and shrinkage,some of it is soaking when purchased.Its the decking that I let sit and dry not framing after the first full summer I waterseal thats it.low maint.nice color.The decking should be installed grain cup down,it will stop warping & cuping.1 screw 3/4-1 in. in from edge each joist each side of deck board.

[Surface Tension]

Like sparcebag said, using dry green treated will reduce that shrinkage and there'll be less likelihood of splitting from that shrinkage. Pay attention to the end grain, having a board cup and hold water isn't good.

A deck wash and a good scrub with bristle brush in between sealing will really make a difference in appearance.

[Fishinguy40]

Does anybody have advice for removing stain that won't come off with a pressure washer and deck wash? My deck has been stained several times over the years with a dark solid color stain. It was this way when we bought the house. My wife and I would like to go to a lighter semitransparent color.

Most of the stain came off the decking and top handrails easily with a pressure washer but the spindles are a different story. Is there a stripper or something I can use to make this easier? I really don't want to sand each spindle.