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Fishinguy40

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About Fishinguy40

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  • Birthday 03/03/1965

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    Eagan

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  1. Fishinguy40

    Ford Anti-Theft System (PATS) - OUCH!

    I decided to wait until tomorrow to pick up the car so I can do it during business hours when the service manager is there. The more I think about it the more it angers me. $500 for a new key is what I'm basically paying for. I know some will say diagnosis and labor but I knew it was the anti theft system when I brought it in. I cant imagine the tech spent much time diagnosing. I don't know how much a new new key costs or how long it takes to program but $500 seems outrageous.
  2. Learned a valuable and expensive lesson. Car is a 2006 Mercury Milan. I assume all newer Fords (after 1999) use Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS). I had an appointment in St Paul earlier this week. When I came out to the parking lot the car would not start. Anti-theft light was blinking fast. Long story short.....Had car towed to a Ford dealer. Turns out the key was bad not the car. Key has a microchip in it that communicates to a transponder that is in the steering column. If I had someone come pick me up with the spare key, I could have driven away and saved $615. Spare key was good. It cost me $125 for the tow, which I will submit to my insurance, and $490 at the dealer for diagnosis, labor, new key and programming of keys. If you ever have a similar issue, try using the spare key before doing anything else. It will still cost to replace the bad key and programming of both keys but I'm sure it can be done for a lot cheaper than $490 that the dealer charged!
  3. Fishinguy40

    2008 Saturn Aura - Stalling

    An update on what happened. Airjer suspected an issue with cam phaser and possibly oil delivery to the top end of the engine because of valve noise. So I decide to replace the cam phasers. When I attempted to rotate the engine by hand, via the camshafts, the timing chain jumped on the cam sprocket. Great! So I purchased a new timing chain and chain tensioner and began the disassembly. When I got the front cover/timing cover off I found something that I was not expecting. The stationary timing chain guide was broken. Below is a picture of the pieces of the chain guide. The top bolt that held the chain guard in place was gone. The bottom bolt was sheared. Drilling and tapping that was fun. Only 5 inches of space because of the frame. I had to purchase a right angle attachment for my cordless drill but it did work. I also discovered where the metal shavings came from that I described in the original post. The timing chain was rubbing on the housing as evidenced by the marks that it left. You can also see that the timing chain was stretched when compared to a new chain. So I ended up replacing both cam phasers, timing chain, chain tensioner, guides, serpentine belt (since it was off for disassembly) and I pulled the oil pan to recover the missing/broken parts. Didn't see anything in the oil pan and no rattling. So I pulled the baffle and the oil pump suction line. The missing bolt, sheared bolt head and several pieces of the chain guide were all stuck up inside the suction line strainer. I didn't get any pictures of that because at this point my hands were quite oily and I didn't want to handle my phone. Got it all back together put new oil and oil filter in. Drove it to work yesterday and noticed when the engine gets hot and you come to a stop you can barely feel what feels like a slight miss as the car idles. After work drove home and changed oil again. There was debris in the brand new oil filter after driving approximately 40 miles round trip to and from work. Not surprising after all the disassembly and cleaning that I did. Drove it to work this morning and the slight miss at idle is better but still slightly noticeable. I suspect that with the damage that I found there is debris moving through the oil system. Also, varnish that may have been loosened with the disassembly and reassembly. This may affect the cam phasers, VVT solenoids or a sticky valve. I plan to run some sea foam through the oil and hopefully clean things up a bit better. I also plan to pull the VVT solenoids to clean and inspect. Hopefully this will be the final fix because it sure seems like something is sticking. You can feel the slight miss, watch the rpm gauge ever so slightly fluctuate and then it just stops. If I discover anything else I will update the post.
  4. Fishinguy40

    2008 Saturn Aura - Stalling

    After taking the car to Airjer, it appears to be a faulty camshaft actuator/ phaser.
  5. Fishinguy40

    2008 Saturn Aura - Stalling

    Car starts right back up and runs fine.
  6. Fishinguy40

    2008 Saturn Aura - Stalling

    I was thinking possible fuel pump. As when she was running rough the other day it seemed like she was starving for fuel and the knocking I heard may have been detonation due to running too lean. It's original pump as far as I know. This weekend I'm going to through a gauge on the fuel rail and see if I can get it to act up again. I don't want to drop the gas tank if I don't have to.
  7. Car is a 2008 Saturn Aura, 2.4L, 104,000 miles. It's my daughter's car. She's complained off and on over the last 18 months that the car will intermittently run rough and/or stall. Never throws a code. I've gone through every wire harness that I can find both inside the car and under the hood. No issues found. I've also gone through every ground connection that I could find and checked connectors, putting dielectric grease on all of them to ensure no fretting corrosion. The problem has been very intermittent. Sometime not happening for several months. But seems to be reoccurring more now. She called a couple weeks ago and said that the car stalled at the parking ramp at MOA after she hit a pothole. I've been driving the car for the last two weeks. And here are the symptoms that have occurred while I've been driving it. First week nothing. Drove fine. I gave her the car back and next day she calls and says the check engine light is on. I pull the code. I think it was PO014. I did clear it so I hope I have the code right but when I looked it up it was for Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve. Auto stores called them Variable Valve Timing Solenoids. So I replaced both actuators, as it is a dual overhead cam. Both were clogged with fine metal shavings or powder. The media was metallic. Checked with a magnet. Media was very fine. No sharp edges. Changed the oil. Checked both actuators again after a day of driving and both were clean. Car ran fine for a few more days. Then one day when I was sitting at a stop light I could feel the car surging. Looked at the rpm gauge and it was bouncing up and down slightly. Car accelerated fine when the light turned green. This happened again a day or two later. On Wednesday I pull into the garage at home after work and the car just quits as I'm coasting into the garage. It was immediate, almost as if I turned the ignition off. Engine wasn't running rough. Put it into neutral and she started right back up fine. No problems. Yesterday, I get thinking. Daughter said she hit a pothole before it stalled. It stalled on me when I pulled into my garage. I do need a new driveway. My apron is sinking in front of the garage so there is quite a lip when pulling into the garage. Almost like a speed bump...LOL. So when I get home from work I pull into the garage a little faster than normal so that I hit the bump hard. Sure enough, car starts running really rough. I put it into neutral and park and she still runs rough. Almost on the verge of stalling. I could hear a loud and distinctive clanking from under the hood. I kept it running and popped open the hood and the sound was coming from under the valve cover. Shut car off. Started it back up. Ran fine and smooth. Met my daughter at Gander last night in Lakeville. We spent an hour at the indoor range. The car stalled on me as I was pulling into a parking spot. Again it just died. Engine wasn't running rough. I think I hit a pothole in the lot before turning into the spot. After we were done, I went home and pulled into the garage hard again. Sure enough, car ran rough. Though I didn't notice the loud clanking this time. The car stalled again this morning as I pulled into a parking spot at work. The car seems to just stall immediately or run rough after decelerating/stopping. No codes except for the one mentioned above. The symptoms seem to vary some but the only consistencies seem to be car acts up when decelerating (sitting at a stop light, pulling into garage or parking spot) and possibly mechanical agitation, such as when hitting a pothole. Ideas?
  8. Fishinguy40

    Scan Tool Recommendations

    I'm not sure what capabilities I'm looking for as I'm not sure what capabilities are available. Currently I'm working on my daughter's car that intermittently stalls on her. Doesn't throw any codes. And of course it won't do it when I'm driving it. Though I have had it surge on me twice while sitting at a stop light. I could feel it and noticed the rpm's go up and down. Only lasted a couple seconds. It would be nice if I could view and trend more than one piece of live data at a time, which is what I am limited to now with the app on my android. I'm thinking/hoping that I might be able to catch something in the trends.
  9. I am considering purchasing a scan tool. I currently have a cheap unit that I purchased from Amazon that interfaces with my Android phone. It allows me to retrieve and reset codes and look at limited live data. I'm wondering if there is something better available for the DIYer. I don't know a lot about them. Tried doing some research on line but it's tough to figure out what you'll get for the money. I don't do this for a living so I'm not looking at spending $1,000 or more. Any recommendations? Or just stick to what I've got?
  10. I left the Bluetooth device plugged in as I drove the car home and was able to achieve over 90% engine load easily when I was accelerating.
  11. After doing some more digging. The MAP pressure 0.89 atmospheres converts to 26.6 inches of mercury vacuum. Is that high? Seems vacuum should be 15 - 22 inches.
  12. The code reader reads everything in engineering units not voltage. The manifold pressure is in atmosphere not voltage.
  13. My daughter was driving the car when it happened. The freeze frame data was stored with the code. What readings don't look right? The air filter doesn't look bad but easy enough to change. Because it happened and hasn't happened since, I'm assuming a senor is going or something electrical.
  14. Daughter called last night and said the car was running really bad. She could only go 10mph and dash lights lit up. Service traction control and reduced engine power. I drove out to where she was and plugged in a Bluetooth ELM327 code reader that works with my Android phone. The code P0068 - Throttle Position Correlation came up. No other codes. Naturally the car started and ran fine as I drove it back home. I suspect the TPS but understand that it could also be the MAF or MAP sensor too. I will disassemble the air intake and inspect for blockage and possible vacuum leaks. My question is, how can I determine which sensor it is if I don't find any vacuum leaks or other mechanical issue? There was data stored along with the code such as engine load, etc. I can't remember everything. And I cannot access that data now. I will have to reconnect to the car and pull the code again to see it. These Bluetooth ELM327 code readers allow you to view real time data but I'm not sure how to interpret much of it. Looking for some insight. Freeze Frame Data: Note the Evap System Pressure in Bold. Is that normal? Ambient Temp 37F Accelerator Pedal Position 15.29% Commanded Throttle Actuator 43.52% Barometric pressure 0.9279 Atm Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 13.28% Relative Throttle Position 29.41% Commanded Evap Purge 100% Absolute Load Value 30.98% Engine Coolant Temp 190F Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure 0.8983 Vehicle Speed 56 MPH Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 17.18% Catalyst Temp Bank 1 1558F Mass Air Flow 38.36 g/s Absolute Throttle Position B 43.13% Calculated Engine Load 91.76% Command Equivalence Ratio 1.0 N/A Timing Advance 38.0 Engine RPM 2308 Throttle Position 43.13% Intake Air Temp 46F Fuel System Status Closed Loop Using O2 Evap System Vapor Pressure -76.4165 Atm *E-03 Accelerator Pedal Position D 31.37% Fuel Level Input 37.64%
  15. Daughter called last night and said the car was running really bad. She could only go 10mph and dash lights lit up. Service traction control and reduced engine power. I drove out to where she was and plugged in a Bluetooth ELM327 code reader that works with my Android phone. The code P0068 - Throttle Position Correlation came up. No other codes. Naturally the car started and ran fine as I drove it back home. I suspect the TPS but understand that it could also be the MAF or MAP sensor too. I will disassemble the air intake and inspect for blockage and possible vacuum leaks. My question is, how can I determine which sensor it is if I don't find any vacuum leaks or other mechanical issue? There was data stored along with the code such as engine load, etc. I can't remember everything. And I cannot access that data now. I will have to reconnect to the car and pull the code again to see it. These Bluetooth ELM327 code readers allow you to view real time data but I'm not sure how to interpret much of it. Looking for some insight.
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